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**Michael_Hohn** · 11-05-2020, 06:39 AM

Regarding question 1, aren’t the drawings detailed enough to show this?

The old way of doing things was for the end-most floor boards to cover the end sills and actually extend out a little. But on the Mather cars the end sills are not exposed ie do not extend beyond the end walls. What’s not clear from photos I’ve seen is whether the edges of floorboards can be seen below the end sheathing (like the sides, where we can see floor board ends under the side sheathing) or if the end sheathing comes down all the way to the sill, covering the edges of floorboards. I don’t have a copy of the plans to examine.

Mike

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 11-05-2020, 08:24 AM

Mike,

After way to many minutes looking at the drawings in TS #17 and studying photos on-line I've decided that the end boards on my car will not extend out to the outer sides of the end boards. The drawings in TS #17 have a tremendous amount of data in them which at times makes it kinda hard to find the detail that I am looking for at the moment. BUT I am still super glad that Jim B gave me the reference to TS #17.

Joe in Orlando

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 11-22-2020, 12:09 PM

Ladders,

I'm on my 3-rd scratch built car, a stock car, and as strange as it may seem I finally have a need for ladders. My flat car and Drovers caboose did not have external ladders. BurleyJim months ago pointed me to Transhed Cyclopedia #17 which had a great dimensioned drawing of a PRR stock car. I will be including this 2 page drawing in my documentation package which means my judges will have a great reference frame to evaluate my ladders (construction and detail categories). From the TS#17 drawings the ladder rungs are stated to be 15.75" apart and the width as I measured it with my dial caliper appears to be about 18.3". I can see several options for ladders and would appreciate some guidance.

Option 1. Use "Best fit" ladders from Tichy or other like vendors

Option 2. Use 0.020" wire and build my own

Option 3. Use Northeastern Scale lumber pieces and build my own

Option 4. Use Evergreen styrene rods and build my own

Option 5. A combination of options 3 and 4

thanks

Joe in Orlando

**BurleyJim** · 11-22-2020, 01:10 PM

Joe, the Tichy ladders will be less of a headache. .020 wire still works out to 1-3/4" rod or pipe. You would need the hands of an ape to climb the ladders. .015 would look closer, but a lot of work for a brass ladder that you still have to prep, and paint. I'd go with the Tichy ladders, and be done.

Jim

**Michael_Hohn** · 11-22-2020, 01:23 PM

Joe,

Photos I’ve seen of Mather stock car models make me think the Tichy ladders won’t work. Nor will any commercial parts I’ve seen. I think you need to use individual grab irons.

Mike

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 01-11-2021, 09:30 AM

I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940

thanks

Joe in Orlando

**jbvb** · 01-11-2021, 09:32 AM

I'm not a PRR historian, but I would be extremely surprised if they used anything but a commercial stamped steel pattern roof in 1940.

**mwbpequod** · 01-11-2021, 02:45 PM

quote:

Originally posted by Joe-SVL

I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940

thanks

Joe in Orlando

What's the car class for that stock car?

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 01-12-2021, 06:20 AM

According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".

Joe in Orlando

**mwbpequod** · 01-12-2021, 08:15 AM

quote:

Originally posted by Joe-SVL

According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".

Joe in Orlando

I was hoping for the PRR class number; those begin with K and have either a number or letter after the K.

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 02-25-2021, 04:16 AM

Years ago I belonged to Dutchman's Scenery Certificate "Support" Thread, but have lost the URL to get to that forum. If anybody knows the URL for that forum please post it here or send it to me.

Thanks

Joe in ORlando

**Dutchman** · 02-25-2021, 04:41 AM

quote:

Originally posted by Joe-SVL

Years ago I belonged to Dutchman's Scenery Certificate "Support" Thread, but have lost the URL to get to that forum. If anybody knows the URL for that forum please post it here or send it to me.

Thanks

Joe in ORlando

Here you go, Joe.

http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...80&whichpage=1

**Joe_dash_SVL** · 03-23-2021, 05:21 AM

Part count inquiry

My 3-rd scratch built car, which I am presently working on, has about 830 + carriage bolts holding the boards to the diagonal and vertical braces. I chose to use Tichy 8018 0.025" rivets to represent the carriage bolts principally because it seemed appropriate that the washers and bolts were on the outside of the car with the rounded head of the carriage bolt on the inside. The Tichy 8018 parts gave me a little amount of vertical extension above the outer surface of the brace. My judgement was that these rivets would be more realistic than rivet head decals. When I reviewed the requirements for the car certificate I cannot find a clear exemption category into which I can put these rivets. I certainly do not have 8300 - 8400 additional parts to offset my rivet count. Any guidance would be appreciated.

**jbvb** · 03-23-2021, 07:09 AM

I haven't been presented with that kind of question while judging. Some guidance is based on parts counts, but I hope there is sympathy and credit given for 830+ .025 holes drilled and castings glued in.

**Michael_Hohn** · 03-23-2021, 08:53 AM

Joe,

Those rivets do not count against you. They are part of the scratchbuilding.

Mike

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