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  • Regarding question 1, aren’t the drawings detailed enough to show this?

    The old way of doing things was for the end-most floor boards to cover the end sills and actually extend out a little. But on the Mather cars the end sills are not exposed ie do not extend beyond the end walls. What’s not clear from photos I’ve seen is whether the edges of floorboards can be seen below the end sheathing (like the sides, where we can see floor board ends under the side sheathing) or if the end sheathing comes down all the way to the sill, covering the edges of floorboards. I don’t have a copy of the plans to examine.

    Mike
    _________________________________________________

    Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

    Comment


    • Mike,

      After way to many minutes looking at the drawings in TS #17 and studying photos on-line I've decided that the end boards on my car will not extend out to the outer sides of the end boards. The drawings in TS #17 have a tremendous amount of data in them which at times makes it kinda hard to find the detail that I am looking for at the moment. BUT I am still super glad that Jim B gave me the reference to TS #17.

      Joe in Orlando

      Comment


      • Ladders,

        I'm on my 3-rd scratch built car, a stock car, and as strange as it may seem I finally have a need for ladders. My flat car and Drovers caboose did not have external ladders. BurleyJim months ago pointed me to Transhed Cyclopedia #17 which had a great dimensioned drawing of a PRR stock car. I will be including this 2 page drawing in my documentation package which means my judges will have a great reference frame to evaluate my ladders (construction and detail categories). From the TS#17 drawings the ladder rungs are stated to be 15.75" apart and the width as I measured it with my dial caliper appears to be about 18.3". I can see several options for ladders and would appreciate some guidance.

        Option 1. Use "Best fit" ladders from Tichy or other like vendors

        Option 2. Use 0.020" wire and build my own

        Option 3. Use Northeastern Scale lumber pieces and build my own

        Option 4. Use Evergreen styrene rods and build my own

        Option 5. A combination of options 3 and 4

        thanks

        Joe in Orlando

        Comment


        • Joe, the Tichy ladders will be less of a headache. .020 wire still works out to 1-3/4" rod or pipe. You would need the hands of an ape to climb the ladders. .015 would look closer, but a lot of work for a brass ladder that you still have to prep, and paint. I'd go with the Tichy ladders, and be done.

          Jim
          Take the red pill

          Comment


          • Joe,

            Photos I’ve seen of Mather stock car models make me think the Tichy ladders won’t work. Nor will any commercial parts I’ve seen. I think you need to use individual grab irons.

            Mike
            _________________________________________________

            Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

            Comment


            • I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940

              thanks

              Joe in Orlando

              Comment


              • I'm not a PRR historian, but I would be extremely surprised if they used anything but a commercial stamped steel pattern roof in 1940.
                James

                Comment


                • quote:


                  Originally posted by Joe-SVL


                  I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940

                  thanks

                  Joe in Orlando


                  What's the car class for that stock car?
                  In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

                  Comment


                  • According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".

                    Joe in Orlando

                    Comment


                    • quote:


                      Originally posted by Joe-SVL


                      According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".

                      Joe in Orlando


                      I was hoping for the PRR class number; those begin with K and have either a number or letter after the K.
                      In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding.

                      Comment


                      • Years ago I belonged to Dutchman's Scenery Certificate "Support" Thread, but have lost the URL to get to that forum. If anybody knows the URL for that forum please post it here or send it to me.

                        Thanks

                        Joe in ORlando

                        Comment


                        • quote:


                          Originally posted by Joe-SVL


                          Years ago I belonged to Dutchman's Scenery Certificate "Support" Thread, but have lost the URL to get to that forum. If anybody knows the URL for that forum please post it here or send it to me.

                          Thanks

                          Joe in ORlando


                          Here you go, Joe.

                          http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/t...80&whichpage=1
                          Bruce

                          Comment


                          • Part count inquiry

                            My 3-rd scratch built car, which I am presently working on, has about 830 + carriage bolts holding the boards to the diagonal and vertical braces. I chose to use Tichy 8018 0.025" rivets to represent the carriage bolts principally because it seemed appropriate that the washers and bolts were on the outside of the car with the rounded head of the carriage bolt on the inside. The Tichy 8018 parts gave me a little amount of vertical extension above the outer surface of the brace. My judgement was that these rivets would be more realistic than rivet head decals. When I reviewed the requirements for the car certificate I cannot find a clear exemption category into which I can put these rivets. I certainly do not have 8300 - 8400 additional parts to offset my rivet count. Any guidance would be appreciated.

                            Comment


                            • I haven't been presented with that kind of question while judging. Some guidance is based on parts counts, but I hope there is sympathy and credit given for 830+ .025 holes drilled and castings glued in.
                              James

                              Comment


                              • Joe,

                                Those rivets do not count against you. They are part of the scratchbuilding.

                                Mike
                                _________________________________________________

                                Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

                                Comment

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