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NMRA AP Cars Certificate "Support" Thread

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  • I don't.

    Joe, I applaud your absolute attempt at strict adherence to exactness. I really hope you are getting some enjoyment out of building these models. Take one of your cars, have it 'evaluated' by some of the folks in your Division. Fill out the paperwork Forms 901 and 902. See how the evaluation is done. You are allowed to be there, it's not a 'contest'!. They should ask questions of you if they have any, and afterwards they write comments on the various areas that are evaluated. The whole purpose is to encourage you to be the best modeler you can be. If the model doesn't gather a Merit Award, you should have pointers to get you there. I've had cars that have 'failed' the exam. With the tips and comments received, everyone of them with just a little tweak here and there passed. How you present the model (write up) is important. Describe what you intend to show. Don't go into so much detail, that the evaluators think their "heads are about to explode".

    I've judged at the past two National Convention Contests and am planning on doing it again in Salt Lake City. We all learn by doing. Relax, and enjoy the ride.

    Jim
    Take the red pill

    Comment


    • Joe,

      I looked at the article you’ve been following. I see why you’re using it with the detailed plans and drawings. It’s going to be an interesting model. Excuse me if you said earlier, but are you using wood or styrene?

      While you won’t see judges getting out their protractors to measure angles, you do want to be reasonably accurate because that will help when you go to assemble the underframe around the train line. Additionally, ti would be difficult to impossible to fix later. Because of the simplicity of a flat car the underneath will get more scrutiny and you want to use extra care, as you’re doing.

      Mike
      _________________________________________________

      Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

      Comment


      • Jim and Mike

        Thanks for your replies.

        Mike I am using 1/32" basswood per the Porter article for this my first car to be built. It will also be my last basswood car, all the rest will be styrene as I'm confident that it will be much easier with styrene to keep the edges square and clean. As per the article by John Porter my flat car has fishbelly sills which will also be the last fishbelly sill car I build.

        Jim my judges come over from Tampa to East Orlando so my present plan is to have 2 or 3 cars ready for their trip as they will also be judging my Civil Certificate work on that same trip.

        Joe

        Orlando,FL

        Comment


        • Coupler Inquiry

          I am nearing the completion of my first AP Car certificate HO-scale car and was wondering what others have done wrt using a coupler that is somewhat less space consuming than the normal Kadee coupler.

          Joe in Orlando

          Comment


          • Joe,

            Couplers are 'exempt' from judging.

            Jim
            Take the red pill

            Comment


            • Joe,

              What do you mean by “normal?” Kadee no. 5? They are indeed oversized and many of us have switched to their “scale coupler” with regular or whisker shank. Kadee makes “scale” boxes for the whisker coupler. (I use Kadee no. 58 and cut the “ears” off the boxes. )

              Jim is quite right that couplers are not judged. However, couplers closer to scale look better and can’t hurt in the judging.

              Mike
              _________________________________________________

              Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

              Comment


              • I know that couplers, trucks, axles etc. are exempt from scratch built counts. I am nearing the end of building my first AP car and was wondering is it prudent to paint and weather the above three specific items.

                Joe in Orlando

                Comment


                • Adds to the realism, go for it!

                  Jim
                  Take the red pill

                  Comment


                  • Joe,

                    You definitely want to weather the fronts of the wheels. The axles, wheel backs and couplers are a good idea as well. As Jim said, you want to take every reasonable opportunity to increase realism.

                    Mike
                    _________________________________________________

                    Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

                    Comment


                    • On the flat car I am presently building I installed Cal-Scale Air Hoses. My question is what to people normally do with the metal glad hand which extends down below the Kadee coupler? I know couplers are an exempt part but it sure does look a little weird to have a scale air hose and then the large simulated "air hose" from the coupler almost side-by-side.

                      thanks

                      Joe in Orlando

                      Comment


                      • You want to clip off the Kadee “gladhand.”

                        Mike
                        _________________________________________________

                        Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin

                        Comment


                        • Mike, AFAIK couplers (with trucks and maybe other items I can't recall) are 'exempt'. Judging teams I've been on have not discussed things like Kadee gladhands, width of wheels or size of flanges in scoring. Which is not to say it's never done, or that people senior to me were not noticing those items and considering them.

                          I do agree that car ends look more realistic without Kadee pins, but the same can be said for wheel width.
                          James

                          Comment


                          • James,

                            I'm a 'senior' only in age,&nbsp &nbsp and I agree with you 100%.

                            Jim
                            Take the red pill

                            Comment


                            • Maybe one last question

                              AAR code - is an AAR code required on a car? I reviewed a lot of the cars on my layout and most do not have an AAR code stenciled on the side of the car. All my PRR cars do have a code but it is their unique code like X28 or X36 that the PRR used and not an official AAR code.

                              Joe in Orlando

                              Comment


                              • The last two cars I've decaled have included AAR codes. I can't quote the rules, but I think the codes were more important on cars where important details like auto racks in boxcars, meat rails in reefers etc. weren't easy to determine from the ground.
                                James

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