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  • Styrene

    For our 0N30 locos and cars; what is a good thickness to work with? If we a replicating wood siding what spacing?

    I plan on picking up some styrene in assorted sizes. No particular project in mind however I would like a small varity on hand. No local hobby shop to run out to on the spur of a moment.

    Might build a critter or some rolling stock ..

    Any thoughts or suggestions ... [:-bulb]
    Tom M.

  • #2
    Tom,

    I am using evergreen o scale 3 1/4" car siding for my critter it is .040" think. IMO this is a good basic thinkness to work with in O scale for the walls. To bend roofs you will want thinner styrene (.020") for floors maybe a little thicker to add strength. Just remember the thicker the stryne the harder to cut. Get lots of sharp knife blades. Remember to cut the stryne you need only to score a line and then you can snap it to cut through.

    For trim the sky is the limit on size .

    Larry

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    • #3
      Tom - Sometimes I use thin styrene and glue wood over it....sorta gives a

      metalbox with wood bracing....you will see what I mean soon.

      Also - Larry is right on, on the sizes to use, but sometimes I even

      go down to .10 for the roofs...a little flimsy, but if you prace it with

      wood underneath, it works fine. That corrugated stuff I made up for the last

      critter (#14), was only .05 thick. JMO.....

      The Geezer

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      • #4
        Good Morning Tom,

        Larry and Geezer are right, you can get stryene in dimensional sizes, 1x4, 2x4, etc. That is what I stock to. I also have some of the 8x10" sheets at several thickness as you see Larry and the other use. I rivet in one, and laminate. Also, you can get a novelty sheet that has the same board layout that matches the combines scribed wall boards. Like you my LHS is gone, and its hit and miss at the others. So I have a large stock.

        Other goodies to have when scratch-botching like I do...I have a great liquid glue, I use a small cheap paint brush, never the one in the bottle. Good hobby knife, I use #11 blades. If you are trying your hand at stryene wood, then you need some wire brushes, small twist drills (need for nut and bolt casting install) a pounce wheel for nails. I also have several small machinist squares and fixtures.

        Les

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        • #5
          Les,

          You mention glue ... what type do yo guys like? I have used both thick and thin CA and 5 minutre epoxy ...
          Tom M.

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          • #6
            Tom,

            I use for styrene I use Ambroid ProWeld its really good and I use a small brush like a O or 00 to apply. There are needle point gluers but I like the brush.

            Yes I use ACC in some Stryene applications, I use mostly medium thick stuff, the really thin goes all over. I also use a pump bottle kicker stuff.

            Something the crew here may not know..is that wood can be infused with very thin ACC glue, when this is done, its hard as rock and can barely be sanded. I have done this in the 3D rapid prototype model making applications.

            So what kind of cutting tools...well I have both old and new NWSL cutter, I use all the time, I have razor saw and I have an new cut off saw for wood that will work for thick styrene.

            Les

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            • #7
              Les,

              Thanks ... Ambroid ProWeld ... I'll try and find some

              I have most of the tools you mention. I know that the dremel with a cut off wheel basicly melts the plastic. What cut off saw are you using?
              Tom M.

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              • #8

                Tom,

                A dupli cutter is also useful if you can get one.

                The only thing I use to cut styrene is the chopper or #11 blades. You score a line in the styrene and then bend the styrene along the score line and it snaps apart.

                For internal cuts like windows you score around the cut out area and then cut diagonal lines from corner to corner. This leaves 4 small triangles that can be snapped out.

                I have also used a hole punch for paper to cut an entry hole.

                As for glue nothing fancy for me, cheep acc or testers liquid model glue.

                I will scratch building a few more things shortly so I hope I learn something new here.

                Larry

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                • #9
                  Tom,

                  Sawing, I have one of those harbor freight ones for this wood, styrene and plexiglass. (haven't used it much, got it for the upcoming trestle and bridge builds) I use my dremel with a "Saw" blade in it, I have coarse, fine and super fine blades, this equates to thickness of the blade. Fine blades for slicing and dicing of combines. I have a hand razor saw for scribing and cutting too. So I still use dremel with cutoff, but the sawblades too. There are new saw like blades out there, that look like metal splattered with grit, I have not tried them.

                  So lets extend the issue..to the next logical part. Sanding....I have sanding sticks (oversize nail files)used almost solely, I have a dremel like belt and disk sander use for everything. I have sanding screen for plaster wall work, its great for sanding stuff flat, like plaster and resin walls.

                  Les

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                  • #10
                    Sanding: I use a number of different small files.

                    I glue various grades of sandpaper to the end of stir sticks. I use about 1 - 1 1/2" by the width of the stick.
                    Tom M.

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                    • #11
                      Tom,

                      Great advice here so far but I'll add my 2 cents anyway.

                      For glue I use either Tamiya extra thin cement, Tenax-7R or Ambroid Proweld (But it is hard to get here). I'm not a big fan of using ACC on styrene but that is just me. like others I use a 000 brush for applying the glue as I fine the brushes that come in the solvents are not fine enough.

                      For sanding I use sand paper, files sanding sticks and emery boards. For sanding long edges I use the NWSL True Sander. I use this almost as much as the chopper.

                      Hope that helps.
                      Ron Newby

                      General Manager

                      Clearwater Valley Railway Co.

                      http://cvry.ca

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                      • #12
                        Ron,

                        Tenax -7R is spoken highly by some. Can we get it up here?
                        Tom M.

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                        • #13
                          Tom,

                          I get it at my local hobby shop.
                          Ron Newby

                          General Manager

                          Clearwater Valley Railway Co.

                          http://cvry.ca

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            In addition to the Tenax and Ambroid liquid cements, you might look at the Testors liquid cement that comes in a strange shaped black bottle. It has a little more viscosity than the regular liquid cement. It’s great for fastening larger pieces, since it doesn’t dry (evaporate?) too fast.

                            http://www.testors.com/dimg/thm/t350...320deaec83.jpg

                            George
                            Flying is the 2nd greatest thrill known to man. Landing is the first.

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