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Repairing and Dcc upgrading an O-Scale Baldwin VO-1000 SN #407 Pictorial

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  • Repairing and Dcc upgrading an O-Scale Baldwin VO-1000 SN #407 Pictorial

    Hello, fellow modeling bandits~,

    I thought I'd share (hopefully) a good one today with yah. I was lucky enough to receive an interesting brain teaser recently and right out of the gate, I pulled out my pocket protractor and started adding up the easy pros and couldn't see a con past the other side of the Grand Canyon. (A very neat place to visit twice in my days and if you get the chance, I'd recommend going to see the biggest damn hole in the world if you get the urge).

    Pros:
    O-scale (cool, big size should have lots of room to add lots of things).
    A diesel (nice, should be way easier than working on a steamer).
    Already painted and lettered (sweet, shouldn't even have to break out an airbrush).
    Big empty cab (awesome, I just so happen to have some crew figures in need of some work).
    The model seems to run fairly smoothly (with just one tiny hesitation in a 360° turn).
    Just need to fix one or two tiny simple broken pieces.

    Okay, Ok! Y'all know where this is headed right! Below are the cons: (I say it in loving jest). While I did have fun rebuilding this cool model, my best friend in the universe (Murphy) had fun too!

    Just the facts ma'am. So on the following day, hummm, sometime after Jesus was born the following happened.
    xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxx


    0) Prototype pic of SN #407 something in this range is the goal.
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    1) Here is the box and model info of what I’m working on.
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    2) While to the untrained eye..., these plates just didn’t look right to me.
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    3) With the shell and trucks removed, I start on the pilots. The first thing I noticed is the end boards were loose with big blobs where attached.
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    4) Upon closer inspection I noticed some type of soft rubber glue was used to secure these parts.
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    More in a few.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by tct855; 03-12-2023, 11:37 AM.

  • #2
    5) This looked to be extra parts from a parts bag that should have been soldered on prior to painting (a common problem with brass models). No worries though.
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    6) The frame is grit blasted and all glued or loose parts are removed and ready to be re-soldered on again.
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    7 & 8) The end pilot plates now look good and fit like a glove.
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    9) The railings were next to being grit blasted and all joints soldered tight again.
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    10 & 11) Now that the original railings were soldered back on. I noticed the railings still didn’t look right.
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    more in a few...

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    • #3
      12) So after looking at the prototype pictures again I noticed they were the wrong type (top mount and not side mounted) railing design.
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      13) I wanted these not only to look closer to the prototype but also to be stronger should someone grab a railing by mistake.
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      14) I drilled and soldered brass pins into each railing base through to the underside and soldered that to the frame side. Hopefully, they’ll now only bend and not break off?
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      15) Next, the stamped polling pockets were barely noticeable and needed some proper attention to detail.
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      16 & 17) So I dug into my tube supply and found a same-size brass tube and cut off 4 at 22° angles and soldered right onto the sanded pilots and now we have noticeable polling pockets.
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      18 & 19) Next turning my attention to the trucks I noticed only one truck had pickups.
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      20) So I cut a couple of Phosphor Bronze into strips and mounted them to the truck frame and soldered a couple of new wire leads.
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      More in a few...
      Attached Files
      Last edited by tct855; 03-12-2023, 10:45 AM.

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      • #4
        21) I also made up some sanding lines with some extra wire since I was here.
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        22) By this time I painted the underside of the frame a proper detail black and baked the frame dry.
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        23) Next I filled the fuel tank with Carrabin metal for extra tractive effort.
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        24 & 25) Time to test fit the frame and trucks and make sure the sanding lines operate with the fuel tank.
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        26) Time to address the broken front number plate.
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        More in a few...

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        • jbvb
          jbvb commented
          Editing a comment
          "Cerrobend, a trade name for Wood's metal" a eutectic alloy 50% bismuth, 27.6% lead, 13.3% tin, 10% cadmium, melts at 70C. Advertised in MR in the 60s.

      • #5
        Looking forward to seeing how this rehab comes out Thom.......wiIl the model be as grungy as the picture of the prototype?
        Gregory P. DeMayo
        Chairman of the Board
        St. Louis & Denver Railroad Corporation
        Longwood, FL

        Comment


        • #6
          27 & 28 & 29) I cut a piece of sheet brass and shape it and soldered it to the nose of the shell and paint blended it in.
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          30) Next I decaled the SN on the plate per the prototype and started weathering the front grill.
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          31 & 32) The makeshift armrests stuck just below the cab windows had to go.
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          33) I didn’t have any O-scale full-length armrests, but two HO brass armrests spliced together made for a better-looking full-length armrest for each side.
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          34 & 35) Both soldered on and once painted will blend right in as they belong.
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          36 & 37) I thought a couple of standing figures heated up and bent into the seated position would help bring the cab alive with a switching crew team.
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          More in a few...

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          • jbvb
            jbvb commented
            Editing a comment
            The main page only shows 2 of the 7 images, but if i "Click image for larger version" I can scroll through all of them.

        • #7
          38) Fitting the cab platform back in with figures proved to be a reader’s digest brain teaser.
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          39) The first hurdle would be the “C” channel would not allow me to fit my new crew and platform inside the newly painted green interior cab. Fudge!!!
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          40) So after an hour of trying to fit the platform in (and feeling like I just ate two dog biscuits by mistake). I ended up removing the “C” channel and used it to make two new “L” shaped brackets with which to hold the platform in place.
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          41 & 42) With a couple of screws to hold everything secure and not rattle around, success.
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          43 & 44) Well after having such a fun time with simply trying to fit the interior in. I figured why not go the extra step and drill out the control panel gauges and light the consoled? Which was a little extra work, but a nice detail once completed.
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          45) So once the platform is screwed in (Fred & Arnie) are happy and ready to go to work. (Although I never understood why model cab interiors and figures never fit well together???
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          More in a few...

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          • #8
            46) I started the weathering process by dirtying up the top radiator grills.
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            47 & 48) Next I built a double screen box to represent the oil and water radiators which fit right in behind the front grill.
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            49 & 50) As you can see with the new screens in, there is plenty of see-through still. I built the screen box mostly as a sight block into the long hood.
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            51) I noticed the center of the frame kept sagging and even when I placed the fuel tank under it I noticed a little gap still. (This is a heavy motor for sure).
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            52) So I cut a thick piece of sheet brass and screwed it to the frame and still noticed a slight gap. (The shell doesn’t have any way of screwing to the frame in the middle). So I needed to use my artistic license here.
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            53) So by soldering an “L” bracket to the center of the thick brass plate I got the frame to rest flat. So no more sagging frame.
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            More in a few...

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            • #9
              54) So while test running the frame I started noticing a hesitation during slow speeds???
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              55 & 56) So let me introduce my best friend (Murphy Law). He helps me out a lot when I’m thinking I’m breezing right through a job. Found a cracked gear.
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              57) Hey Murph, I see you found another glued-on part for me to fix.
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              58) Ok, so moving right along on the shell electronics. I ran the cab light wires and the control panel light wires and rubber glued them in place so no loose wires would get caught up in the drive shafts.
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              59) Installed the two number board lightboxes right next to the decoder.
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              More in a few...

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              • #10
                60) Installed the oval speaker w/baffle next to the cab making sure it didn’t hit the motor with the shell on.
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                61) The cap-pak is secured right next to the decoder in the front making sure the tower chain drive doesn’t interfere.
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                62) Next I secured the front truck pickup wires allowing for plenty of truck articulation.
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                63) I made a custom 4-wire pin female connector and mounted it to the frame. (The all-wheel pickups and the motor leads are the 4 pins.
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                64) Guess what? Murphy made me forget to take a picture of the 4-wire harness to the decoder with the custom-made male 4-pin connector…. Sorry.


                More in a few...

                Comment


                • #11
                  Here are the following eye-candy pics of the finished model, below:

                  65-83) Weathering pics. Done by hand with 6 colors of oil paints.

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                  More in a few...

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                  • #12
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                    • #13
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                      84-87) Lights on pics.
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                      More in a few...
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                      • #14
                        88) I hope this helps you or gives you some ideas with your next VO-1000 build.
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                        I hope this gives someone an idea or helps out with their VO-1000 Build. Thanx Thom...

                        Comment


                        • #15
                          Thom, Your eye for noticing details and deffects, thoroughness, workmanship, clear dscriptions, photos plus an overall apptitude for this stuff continues to amaze me.
                          Rock on! Or Sacramento Northern and on!
                          Last edited by Bill_Gill; 03-12-2023, 12:54 PM.

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