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 Building a Jordan Kit Part 3
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Author Previous Topic: Brick Detail in “3-D printing” Topic Next Topic: More Expansion at the F&SM
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Posted - 06/01/2004 :  06:25:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Great job, Ken.

I don't think I have ever seen this kit before. Is it still available?


Country: USA | Posts: 3581 Go to Top of Page

Engine Wiper

Posted - 02/20/2006 :  8:19:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit Cletus's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This tutorial was great. I have had success after trying a couple models. One of the biggest diffculties I see is with the lack of good pictures with the Jordan models. In many cases, it is difficult to determine where to glue together certain parts based on the included pictures. In some cases this is most critical for parts to fit properly. One example would be the change Ken added about gluing the rear spring. While you would pick up on that as you put the model together, it is still great to know prior to. But then again, it isn't the first time instructions ere lacking.

Thanks Ken for filling the gaps in.

Country: USA | Posts: 497 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 02/20/2006 :  10:32:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit dougcoffey1950's Homepage  Send dougcoffey1950 a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Can we ever see or have enouhg Jordan vehicles? Such little jewels. If it were not for Jordan vehicles, my 1920s era layout would have been an 1890's version.
Now I need to do another one with the hood open.
Great work guys!


Country: Canada | Posts: 1009 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 02/21/2006 :  4:32:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your right about the instructions Cletus, but after a few kits you won't need them anyways. Lots of the same parts are used for various kits and some need modification before they fit right for different vehicles. I'm looking forward to building about 30 vehicles for me diorama after the buildings are done. Have not built one in awhile.

But where would we be without these great kits? One can never have enough Jordans!

In memory of Mike Chambers

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Section Hand

Posted - 12/01/2018 :  4:07:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ken, I know this is a very old thread but I just found it (just became a member of this site) and it's going to be very helpful as I have a number of these kits to build. Let me start off by saying thanks for doing this tutorial, like I said, it's going to be very helpful.

One thing I did notice was the part about the rear leaf spring. On these cars the spring mounted to a perch on the frame just at the center of the spring usually by two U bolts that went over the bottom of the spring in the center with the ends going through four holes in the perch and held with nuts on top of the perch.
As a result I think the ends of the spring should not fit flush with the end of the spring slot, but should stand proud of the underside of the floor pan and connect to the ends of the wishbone.
In the last picture of your car, it looks as the rear is a little low, like the car is loaded heavily in the rear. It looks to me as if the is a difference in the gaps between the fenders and the tires from the front to the rear.

Now you know much more about building these cars then I do so I might be completely out to lunch here, but I thought I'd like share my opinion and if I'm right it would make installing the rear spring much simpler I think.


There's a prototype for everything.
If you can't make it perfect, make it adjustable.
DCC is not plug and play.

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Posted - 12/01/2018 :  8:39:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Scott,

I can agree with what you think, but if you would do it like you said the rear end would be way too high. Remember, a full size car would have enough weight to compress the rear leaf. These don't.

I like to build my vehicles with no rake, just even front to back.

Just my thoughts...


In memory of Mike Chambers

Edited by - Marken on 12/01/2018 8:40:11 PM

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