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Ensign
Fireman
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 Posted - 12/11/2020 : 4:01:42 PM
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Bernd, those wall castings that you made look pretty darn good to me.
If you hadn't pointed out the tiny deficiencies in them I would not have really noticed them.
I'm not certain on how fast your modified propeller spins around, but I'd be worried that your zip tied nuts might go flying off!
Perhaps drilling a hole into what's left of that blade, so that you could feed the zip tie into the hole instead of just around the blade would be a little more safe.
Greg Shinnie
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Edited by - Ensign on 12/11/2020 4:11:47 PM |
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Country: Canada
| Posts: 8939 |
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Bernd
Fireman
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Posted - 12/11/2020 : 4:23:06 PM
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You guys are a riot to converse with. I just got back from the grocery store with a 12 pack of that Japanese beer, Yuengling. Raise your hand if I got ya! And a bottle of dishwater rinse. If I drink all 12 at once it’ll give a new meaning to that bottle of rinse. Can you say “rinsed”. I’m going to give that a try tonight, the rinse that is.
Karl said:
quote:
Just let us know what bubbles to the surface. I’m sure you’ll find a solution.
If I drink all 12 bottles tonight I’ll be the one bubbling to the surface. I might just have to have Pennman come up and mix the Hydrocal for me.
Norton pontificated:
quote:
Have you thought about what direction the vibrations might work better? Horizontal? Vertical? Combination?
Yes I did, right after I got back from the store I was looking at the whole Rube Goldberg design and wondered that too. Right now I’m too lazy to mount the motor horiztonally.
quote:
Have you thought about whether the frequency or amplitude of the vibrations might get you better results.
Now we’re getting into the esoteric end of this subject. My take is if I vary the speed of the motor I think I would be varying both the frequency and amplitude. I did notice at a certain rpm the table vibrated more.
quote:
Along with those, does the duration of the applied vibrations make a difference in the results?
If what I said above is true then yes there was a difference.
quote:
Do you own stock in your casting material's company?
No, but do you want to buy some?
quote:
Inquiring minds want to know...
It’s four o’clock and my mind is turning to mush, so you’ll have to wait a millennium or two or until I finish my 12th beer. I should be pretty coherent by then, not.
Jim asked:
quote:
Bernd,
Are you going to coat the finished wall with a sealer or paint? The bubbles..."a blind man will never see them". on the other hand, the pieces that got pulled during the release process are different. I've used CRC 03300, with good luck on fibreglass body panel repairs. The paint on types left ridges and 'whoopdees' (It's a body shop term) It doesn't take a lot, just a thin coat. Prices are all over the place, here are some others.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=crc+03300
Jim
Once I get the master pattern made I was thinking of spraying it with a matte gloss so the RTV won’t seep into the porous material of the Hydrocal. As far as the mold release stuff, looking at the contents they all seem to be of similar ingredients.
Okay, to wrap this discussion up. I’d like to thank all of you for putting forth your ideas in a fun way. I think by the time we get done with this project we will be able to handle the matrix of question anybody has on casting almost anything.
I have several observations with the casting process. I think I still mix it too fast and create too many bubbles. The vibe-table isn’t doing its job properly and the Hydrocal, plaster of Paris and even the Durham water putty is quite thick, even in a pancake consistency. I'm afraid if I make it to watery the cast medium will loose it's strength and crumble like my first two casting I made.
I have more experimentation to perform, but only after the 12th bottle.
Bernd
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| New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3895 |
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dave1905
Fireman
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Posted - 12/12/2020 : 5:58:54 PM
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Have you considered casting them out of resin? You could make them thinner, they would be tougher and wouldn't chip.
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Dave Husman
Iron Men and wooden cars
Visit my website : www.wnbranch.com |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1176 |
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Bernd
Fireman
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Posted - 12/12/2020 : 8:26:33 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by dave1905
Have you considered casting them out of resin? You could make them thinner, they would be tougher and wouldn't chip.
The walls I'm casting now are a source of individual blocks. Thickness does not matter here. I'm using the individual blocks to build a master wall for the roundhouse. I will be using one of the dental stone powders for the final walls. Also remember I can make walls thinner because I don't have to ship them to a customer and hope they don't break during shipment.
I think people are having a hard time figuring out what I'm doing. All I need these walls for is a source of rough faced blocks. I basically have to make my own building blocks. Unfortunately I don't know how the rough surface is made on blocks as small as on these patterns or I would have started out that way.
Bernd
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| New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3895 |
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deemery
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 12/13/2020 : 10:47:52 AM
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It depends a lot on how much texture you want in 'rough stone'. Russ Greene (NE Brownstone) said one approach is to hold an X-Acto Knife nearly perpendicular to the surface, and then drag it across a strip of 'rock' to get the blade to chatter. I've tried that, it takes practice but the results are pretty good!
dave
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| Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 8749 |
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Bernd
Fireman
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Posted - 12/13/2020 : 11:53:37 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by deemery
It depends a lot on how much texture you want in 'rough stone'. Russ Greene (NE Brownstone) said one approach is to hold an X-Acto Knife nearly perpendicular to the surface, and then drag it across a strip of 'rock' to get the blade to chatter. I've tried that, it takes practice but the results are pretty good!
dave
Thanks Dave. Interesting method to try.
Bernd
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| New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3895 |
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Philip
Fireman
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Posted - 12/13/2020 : 11:19:28 PM
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hit em with warm soapy warm water and your pesky bubbles will vanish. Surface tension.
Philip
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3438 |
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Bernd
Fireman
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Posted - 01/06/2021 : 5:41:42 PM
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I made a slight improvement to the shaker table. Every time I set something on to shake the bubbles out, the material would shift to one side of the mold. I had to put a shim under one side. After not finding that same shim the next time I needed it I decided it was time for a slight improvement of the table so this is Ver.1.1. Now I can adjust the level both ways by just turning the wing nut.
The parts for one adjustable leg. 3/8" bolt, two washers, one nut and one wing nut.
The sequence of the assembled leg.
The top side with the legs installed.
The bottom side.
Everybody understand the three leg principle of support so you get no rocking? Four legs would be to hard to adjust the level. Remember the three legged milking stool? Same idea. Except your not milking a cow.  
Bernd
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| New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3895 |
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Frank Palmer
Fireman
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Posted - 01/06/2021 : 6:55:07 PM
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Bernd, man you are the Goldbergest guy I know. What a work shop.
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| Frank |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6088 |
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Bernd
Fireman
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Posted - 01/07/2021 : 10:14:21 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Frank Palmer
Bernd, man you are the Goldbergest guy I know. What a work shop.
Thanks Frank.
I got that from my dad. He was a DYI'er. I picked up that DNA.
Bernd
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| New York, Vermont & Northern Rwy. - Route of the Black Diamonds |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3895 |
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George D
Moderator
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/07/2021 : 10:19:37 AM
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I like the three legged solution, Bernd.
George
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| Fly Army |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 16595 |
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