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Author Previous Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout Topic Next Topic: looking for builder of Fast Track turnout
Page: of 6

robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/29/2020 :  02:03:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Progress is looking good Glen.
The age old problem for Model Railroads.
Never enough real estate. Even large basement layout always want to cram in as much as possible.
I don't know much about stamp mills, so can't really advise. But they sure do look good.

And you said you were 6'9". Could have raised the layout another foot higher.


Regards Rob

Despite the cost of living, It's still popular

Country: Australia | Posts: 2508 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 10/30/2020 :  12:27:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think I came up with a solution/compromise.




First, I moved the mill a few inches closer to the jog in the wall. I plan to hide that with some scenery of some sort.
Next I replaced the left hand turnout with a right, incorporating it into the curve. Then I shrank my radius from 24" to around 20-22"




You can see the new track path that I penciled in
I think I can cut a bit off the upper deck now and give the lower areas more room.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/01/2020 :  8:09:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I got quite a bit done over this past weekend.




I finished off the roadbed to the stampmill and logging camp. I think I made the grade gentle enough so I can shove a 4-5 car train up it. I also made allowances for the bridges that will go in. Better to add those now than to try to figure them out later.




I also added the decking to the smaller townsite. I trimmed some of the upper area and moved it to the lower. I'm fairly happy with the space I have now.




This is where the other bridge will go. Canadians will recognize the orange Juneco Box.



I picked this 75' deck timber bridge a few years ago and have been waiting for a chance to use it. Using the plans in the kit I gave the roadbed a 11" gap that should fit the bridge.






With this last piece of main decking/roadbed attached, I'm ready to start laying track.
I am wondering about cork roadbed. My last layout was all cork roadbed. At first I was thinking of ditching roadbed entirely but then I was also thinking of corking the main and passing sidings and laying the rest of the track directly on the plywood. Haven't decided that one quite yet.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 11/01/2020 :  10:25:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Glen

Your new layout is coming right along. Having the bridge right up near the wall will provide you an opportunity to show your ingenuity in disguising a river that goes nowhere.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 6763 Go to Top of Page

Tyson Rayles
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 11/02/2020 :  09:10:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you are going to have a backdrop now would be the time to put it in.


Country: USA | Posts: 13312 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/02/2020 :  10:04:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good progress. Three issues with track directly on plywood came to mind: Noisy, hard to drive nails or spikes (I often use them to help align rail joints or gaps in flex track) and difficult to model roadbed raised above the adjoining ground, or drainage ditches.


Country: USA | Posts: 6585 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/03/2020 :  01:33:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks everyone. I haven't really considered a backdrop on this layout, I painted the room's walls in a sky blue for that reason. On the previous layout I had the backdrop to hide the return track on the loop and to use as scenery forms for the mountains.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to cork roadbed the mainline and the two passing sidings but not the branch line or the other sidings for some contrast. A number of modellers in my club are running on plywood or chip board and haven't had problems. I think the noise issue comes when you are running older equipment like Athearn BB engines.
Now that you mention it I will try to figure something out with that river/creek that the Howe truss bridge will cross. The deck bridge won't be crossing any water, I just haven't figured out what will be below it quite yet.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/03/2020 :  11:06:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I fitted the last piece of the mainline puzzle in this afternoon:




The Drop gate. I cut it to fit the gap on Saturday out of the last of the 3/4" plywood. I figured that 3/4" would be stiffer than 1/2" and wouldn't need more reinforcement. To fit it in I first screwed it across the gap with some spare 1X2's to hold it in place while I installed the piano hinge below.







Now that it's installed I have to add a latching mechanism to keep it up and properly aligned. As it is I will probably have to shim the track that will be running across to make a near perfect alignment.

On the cork roadbed front. I dropped by my local hobby shop after work today and they were all sold out. The owner told me he hopes to get a new shipment in next week sometime.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/08/2020 :  9:51:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A bit more progress this week. I added a deadbolt to the drop gate which holds it in place at the correct alignment. That was actually easier than I thought it was going to be. As usual, I was over thinking it. It works well but I may add a second deadbolt for extra security.
This afternoon I started to layout the turnouts for the mainline:




these are the two turnouts for the larger city's passing siding, and the branchline to the stamp mill.




And these are the turnouts for the smaller town's passing siding and the sawmill's sidings. I decided not to run the mainline as a straight line through this area. Instead I wanted it to mainly follow the layout edge and then 's' curve to meet the roadbed. I think this will add a bit of visual interest while running and gives me more space on one side of the mainline instead of cutting through the middle.




With the mainline figured out I needed to start to laydown the cork roadbed. I ordered some from the local hobby hop last week but when his shipment came in this Friday his supplier was sold out. He told me that it was going to take up to a month to get any new stock it.
Then a friend called and told me someone in the local classifieds listed a bunch of track and roadbed. Long story-short, I got a whole box (25 lengths) for half of what I would have paid at the store. I had already figured out that I would need between 18-19 lengths but it doesn't hurt to have extra.
The plan is to still cork the mainline and sidings and lay the sidings and branchline directly on the plywood for contrast.





While I was at it, I decided to take stock of my flextrack. On the right is a pile of Atlas code 100 and the pile on the left is Peco Code 100. Turns out I have quite a bit more than I thought. I probably have enough to build 3 layouts of this size. Since I'm using all peco turnouts, I'm going to go with their flextrack as well. I'm also thinking of handlaying some of the sidings later.





This is how far I got with roadbed laying before it got too late and I didn't want to bother the neighbors too much. I'll continue to tack it down as the week progresses.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 11/09/2020 :  08:47:05 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good deal on the track, Glen. It pays to be alert.


Country: USA | Posts: 6763 Go to Top of Page

mark_dalrymple
Fireman

Posted - 11/09/2020 :  1:18:52 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Looking good, Glen.

You might want to temporarily lay those two sets of points and the curves each side and do some test running with your longest rolling stock through the S-bend to check for derailments. Personally I would be looking at putting a straight section between the points. The length required will be determined by the length of your rolling stock. I think you will find it will look more natural, too.

Chees, Mark.



Country: New Zealand | Posts: 1236 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/09/2020 :  8:49:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm not quite sure I understand your suggestion, Mark.





Are you referring to the turnouts as points and you are suggesting a 6" straight section between them or are you suggesting the I break the 's' up with a straight between the two curves?



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 11/09/2020 :  10:02:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe this layout of the turnouts would be better?




This way I wouldn't shorten the passing siding and I could space the turnouts a bit more.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2451 Go to Top of Page

MarcusF
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/10/2020 :  10:03:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking good! Glen, your name rings a bell - were you ever part of the Double Headers layout tour?


Country: Canada | Posts: 108 Go to Top of Page

mark_dalrymple
Fireman

Posted - 11/10/2020 :  7:59:52 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Hi Glen.

Firstly - I'm far from an expert in this area - perhaps someone who is can chime in.

In answer to your three questions - yes, maybe and yes. Where ever you have two curves in opposing directions meeting, they create an S-curve. This is a danger area for derailments, especially with longer equipment. Between these two opposing curves you should attempt to have a tangent (straight piece of track) at least equal to the longest piece of equipment you intend to run. With turnouts (points) the larger the radius of the curve of the turnout the less of a problem you will have. It appears to me that you have an S-curve coming into the passing siding, and then another directly after where the curve of the two turnouts meet. I would suggest a straight piece of track between the two opposing curves coming into your passing siding, and then a reworking of your passing siding, perhaps by using a curved turnout. You can print out templates from the link below.

https://peco-uk.com/collections/turn-out-crossing-plans

Hope this helps a bit. If you search 'S-curves in model railroading' you should find plenty of discussions, problem solving etc, by people far more knowledgeable in this area than me.

Cheers, Mark.



Country: New Zealand | Posts: 1236 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 6 Previous Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout Topic Next Topic: looking for builder of Fast Track turnout  
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