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Author Previous Topic: CNR Blackwater division Topic Next Topic: looking for builder of Fast Track turnout
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tloc
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/15/2020 :  08:57:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
George it's good to see the adventure continue. My entire layout is ME code 70 rail glued to Central Valley tie strips. I used a 70% mixture of Barge cement and 30% MEK. My rail was soldered in 6’ lengths. I applied the glue mix to bot the rail and the tie strip. In a controlled environment the first 2 years I had no rail movement. The third year and after a move I did have some break outs. I then added move cuts in the rail. No problems since. Thanks for sharing your methods.

TomO




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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/15/2020 :  09:18:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tom, I've had some experience with Pliobond, which is similar to Barge Cement. In my experience, it's long lasting. I used Barge Cement this time to fasten the rails to the wooden ties because I've read it's better than Pliobond. Did you use a soldering iron to heat the rails to soften the Barge Cement to fasten them to the tie strips?

So far, the only mechanical fastening I've done is the soldering of the rails to PCB ties. The wonders of modern chemistry.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16399 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/17/2020 :  4:13:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The ties are done and all the feed wires are dropped and temporarily fastened to the bus wires.

I've mounted all six Tortoise machines. Before I glued the track down I laid it in place and marked where the holes for the Tortoise throw wires needed to be and drilled 1/4” holes there. After gluing the track down I turned the layout on it's side and found a couple holes needed to be reamed out. I used a grinding tool on my Dremel working up from the underside of the platform to fix them. I'm running the Tortoise throw wires up into the ends of the throw bars, so there was a nice 1/8” space between the platform and the throw bar to work with.

I printed up a set of mounting templates and glued them to squares of 1/4” luan plywood. I drilled out holes for the mounting screws and fastened the Tortoise machines to them. The base of the layout is also 1/4” luan and I thought the extra thickness was needed.



It turns out it made mounting the machines pretty easy. I was able to sight into the hole and run the throw wire through the hole and hold everything in place while I manually threw the machine to make sure the points were throwing completely each way. I ran the screws into the platform and double checked everything.



This picture isn't on it's side, the layout is. It's easy to work on this way.

Those machines were used on another layout and while the wired and soldered to the correct places, the all red wires are confusing. I'll be running color coded wires from these red wires, not resoldering everything.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16399 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/17/2020 :  5:47:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
George, I like your Tortoise mounting technique. The layout I was doing the scenery on, had a foam substrate that was a little too flimsy for the tortoises. So I did a little 3D work, and came up with the posts and a jig to do the locating from the the topside. Tortoises like a sure footing.


Jim




Take the red pill

Edited by - BurleyJim on 08/17/2020 6:04:09 PM

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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/17/2020 :  7:19:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like that design, Jim. Luckily I was able to get things aligned from the bottom.

George



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BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/17/2020 :  9:10:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The bottom plate was CA'ed to the top of the tortoise, the 'legs' were roughed with 80 grit sandpaper then glued up into the foam. So far, it's holding like a rock.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 5861 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/18/2020 :  10:47:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Jim, what are you using to glue the legs into the foam?

George



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BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/18/2020 :  1:33:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Titebond III

Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 5861 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/18/2020 :  4:11:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Jim. I have at least a dozen different adhesives around my workbench, but not Titebond III. I need to give it a try.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16399 Go to Top of Page

Tyson Rayles
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/19/2020 :  08:33:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Someone once said switch machines were invented by sadists to sell to masochists!


Country: USA | Posts: 13324 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 08/19/2020 :  09:57:56 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Hey George, it's track side up.


Frank

Country: USA | Posts: 5973 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/19/2020 :  10:30:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Frank Palmer


Hey George, it's track side up.



I'm enjoying having the layout on it's side. It's so much easier than working overhead on a conventional layout. However, I won't have a chance to use the colorful language I learned in the Army when I'm soldering.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16399 Go to Top of Page

tloc
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/19/2020 :  11:35:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

Tom, I've had some experience with Pliobond, which is similar to Barge Cement. In my experience, it's long lasting. I used Barge Cement this time to fasten the rails to the wooden ties because I've read it's better than Pliobond. Did you use a soldering iron to heat the rails to soften the Barge Cement to fasten them to the tie strips?

y.

George



George, sorry for the slow response. When I initially put the rail down I just pressed the rail into the ties using a 1x 2 strip of oak. Remember I coated the underside of the rail and the tie strip. I then read about using an soldering iron to heat the glue and meld the 2 together. I can tell you, IMO don’t do it. Or clearly mark where you’ve done it. The spots I heated are the few spots where the rails popped off the ties after 3 years of being here.

I had been experimenting with the copper clad ties strips added to the Central Valley tie strips I use for a couple new turnouts. I am enjoying your build and the good discussions.

TomO



Country: USA | Posts: 4070 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/19/2020 :  12:42:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don't worry about the slow response, Tom. You have a lot on your plate.

The time I used the Pliobond technique was probably 15 years ago. I used it to fasten guard rails to a bridge that arched from a grade to level, so the rails are under constant pressure to pop up. So far, so good.

When you say you've used PCB ties with the Central Valley ties, I assume you're talking about the technique that Joe Fugate used. If not, you'll find this interesting. http://siskiyou-railfan.net/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?5125

I've thought about trying it, but never did.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 16399 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 08/20/2020 :  10:02:11 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

George, I hear ya'. The easiest layout I've ever wired.





Frank

Country: USA | Posts: 5973 Go to Top of Page
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