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Tintic Range
New Hire
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 Posted - 01/10/2020 : 7:22:47 PM
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While my main focus is 1900 Rio Grande Western Railway, I've lately been considering dabbling in the 1870s, when the "Mormon Roads" were still under construction, such as the Utah Central, Utah Southern, Utah & Pleasant Valley, etc. Besides local roadnames I need a ton of Central Pacific rolling stock since the Utah Central and Utah Southern were known to buy/lease/borrow/steal CP cars in addition to some limited interchange.
My first car was the Crown Point Model Engineering Central Pacific construction flat kit, which fits perfectly because the decals included with the kit were drawn from Andrew Brandon's Central Pacific lettering diagram for 1878.
Trucks are Bitter Creek, designed for their Central Pacific boxcar kit, but they work for a lot of early CP cars. They don't currently appear on the Bitter Creek website (I bought them at a train show last year) but I contacted the owner and he says he'll have them up soon.
Paint was poly scale Erie Lackawanna Maroon. I used Andrew's lettering diagram and picked a color of my many maroons/oxides that looked good. Of course these photos revealed all the spots that I missed with the paint, so I've touched it up a bit since then.
I still have five more CP flats to build, but I think I'll assemble a Bitter Creek CP boxcar next.
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| Posts: 35 |
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OK Hogger
Crew Chief
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Posted - 01/10/2020 : 8:01:45 PM
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Nice work all around, there Tintic! Also interseting cars in the background, too.
Andre
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
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Posted - 01/10/2020 : 8:52:23 PM
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Nice looking flat car. Well done.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 5897 |
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RyanAK
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 01/10/2020 : 8:56:08 PM
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The Bitter Creek CP box car is a great little kit. Enjoy building it!
R
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Country: USA
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railman28
Fireman
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deemery
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 12:36:32 PM
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Very similar cars:
The prototype is CP, but I put Panamint "Cleveland Pattern" (eastern RR) trucks on them. Most will have gondola sides and serve as the old 'home road' coal gons of the early 1880s.
dave
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| Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 8126 |
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railman28
Fireman
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 1:06:34 PM
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Josh, could you share me a close-up of the hand brake. I'm having trouble visualizing it.
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
| Posts: 5444 |
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Tintic Range
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 4:07:50 PM
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The brake assembly uses cut-down tichy parts and a small bit of brass strip formed into a twisted L to approximate the prototype assembly.
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Edited by - Tintic Range on 01/11/2020 4:08:17 PM |
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| Posts: 35 |
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railman28
Fireman
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 4:34:13 PM
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Thank you very much Josh. I found the instructions confusing.
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
| Posts: 5444 |
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Tintic Range
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 6:57:42 PM
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It helps that I've amassed a large folder of Central Pacific photos from various libraries like SMU, the LoC and Museum of California. I love the kits but there are a few points where the written instructions were vague enough to confuse me; if I wasn't already familiar with the brake staff mount I wouldn't have known what to do either. I'm still a bit lost as to how the center tension rods actually connect, if they were supposed to pass through or over the bolsters.
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railman28
Fireman
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 7:09:28 PM
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I have a few too. I refereed to this one;
But your's has a better angle. I couldn't figure out the inside rods ether but chose not to worry about it since they are not visible with out flipping over the car.
Thank you
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Edited by - railman28 on 01/11/2020 7:11:13 PM |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 5444 |
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Early1905
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 7:25:19 PM
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Typically if there are nuts on the end beam, the truss rod goes over the bolster all the way to the end beam.
There are truss rods that terminal at the bolster. An example would be the 8 truss rod Ensign flat car.
Howard Garner
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Country: USA
| Posts: 20 |
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Tintic Range
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 7:55:08 PM
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I'm fairly familiar with how the real cars are built, but there are some discrepancies in assembly between the prototype and the model, which is natural. This wrecked UP flat shows rods that run under the bolster, but this method of assembly isn't possible with the kit, and if the rods are supposed to run through the bolster casting, there wasn't any indication of where to mount the wire to replicate this. But no matter, because as was pointed out, you can't really see them anyway.
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| Posts: 35 |
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Early1905
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 8:11:30 PM
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It can be done. Especially for a contest model.
The top of the bolster will have a short casting simular to a queen post. Make a small recess in the end beam and flare the end of the truss rods. Cut back and adhere the NBW to cover.
Howard Garner
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Country: USA
| Posts: 20 |
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Tintic Range
New Hire
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 8:24:58 PM
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I'm not saying it can't be done, the point is that there were some places where the instructions were vague enough that we could not visualize how certain parts were intended to be mounted to the body of the model, regardless of what was done in real life.
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| Posts: 35 |
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railman28
Fireman
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Posted - 01/11/2020 : 8:59:36 PM
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Josh, that's a great picture. There are several differences in the UP car. I didn't know that they too used Captured Ends Flatcars.
Bob
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
| Posts: 5444 |
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