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 The Coos Bay and Willamette Valley Part two
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Author Previous Topic: Projects in Progress on the Southern Central RR Topic Next Topic: New W&N
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slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/09/2019 :  12:30:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Congrats, Andre! I've been following this project from the start and I'm amazed at how you've engineered these locos from scratch.


Country: USA | Posts: 8372 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/09/2019 :  12:44:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Andre, Bernd, Mike and a little confused Russ(you must be my age), Thank you!!! I really appreciate the support. It warms my heart. Keep watching, after #7 get her decoder I'll be able to focus on the cosmetics and things should progress quickly.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/11/2019 :  8:46:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi, I'm taking a little break from the workbench for dinner and to straighten my back. I got the decoder into #7's tender. It's a very tight fit. maybe I should of took a picture of how tight the components are, but I didn't. Sorry I just wanted to get this done. I'm using tenders made by United for PFM for use with their model of the V&T #11 Reno. I got them used off of Ebay. They both have needed work. One of them I had to strip the paint off of (I did that years ago) and repair both of them (which I'm doing now as I add the decoder). Just minor stuff. Solder clean up, truck screw replaced but one had a weird problem (strange it was the better looking of the two tenders). One of the insulated wheels had a rim that was not fully pressed onto the insulation hub, The rim made contact with the truck frame causing a short. Just took me about an hour to find this. The fix was about 3 minutes with about 10 minutes to re-assemble the truck. Hopefully Video of a running #7 will be posted later.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 09/12/2019 :  09:36:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Sorry about the name confusion, Bob. I didn't have enough coffee. Or it could be my age.


Country: USA | Posts: 8372 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/12/2019 :  7:52:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Don;t worry about it Russ.

I had a short develop in one of the engines. a wire came loose. but it gave me an oppertunity to take a picture of how everything fits into the tender.



Here's a video of #7 learning to walk. she still a little ruff going backwards but is getting better.
https://youtu.be/5tLWZQL1YNQ

And here they have learned their names;
https://youtu.be/6sITkmkOt9E


enjoy guys

Bob



It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 09/12/2019 :  9:25:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
They're alive! They're Alive!! THEY'RE ALIVE!!!

The hitch appears to be emphasized when it's reversing around the curve. Perhaps the U-joint bar is bottoming in the sockets and thus not able to "float"? There should be a small amount of play in the U-joint bar at all times, even when reversing on the tightest curve.

Andre



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Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  08:34:46 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob,

You sure stuffed that five pound bag with more than five pounds of stuff. Great to have seen this project from start to this point. I do wonder if that "sort" of step angle of the drive shaft makes the engine run a bit rough. To bad it couldn't be made straighter.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 3145 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  12:36:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bernd

Bob,

You sure stuffed that five pound bag with more than five pounds of stuff. Great to have seen this project from start to this point. I do wonder if that "sort" of step angle of the drive shaft makes the engine run a bit rough. To bad it couldn't be made straighter.

Bernd



Yes, stuffed like a dinner turkey. While the Angle isn't idea it seems to be working. both engines are laid out the same. only one is ruff in reverse only. Others are saying that the drive staff is a bit too long. As I'm sure your aware the gearbox shifts position a little bit when you change direction. It might not have enough room in the "cup" in reverse. I have to check it out.

I really appreciate your comments. Thank you very much for sharing them.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  1:42:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Iím impressed.

I guess if thereís a problem itís better if itís running backwards; the opposite seems to be the norm sometimes.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 5191 Go to Top of Page

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  2:02:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by railman28

quote:
Originally posted by Bernd

Bob,

You sure stuffed that five pound bag with more than five pounds of stuff. Great to have seen this project from start to this point. I do wonder if that "sort" of step angle of the drive shaft makes the engine run a bit rough. To bad it couldn't be made straighter.

Bernd



Yes, stuffed like a dinner turkey. While the Angle isn't idea it seems to be working. both engines are laid out the same. only one is ruff in reverse only. Others are saying that the drive staff is a bit too long. As I'm sure your aware the gearbox shifts position a little bit when you change direction. It might not have enough room in the "cup" in reverse. I have to check it out.

I really appreciate your comments. Thank you very much for sharing them.

Bob



Bob,

Just for giggles do you have any tubing (silicone model airplane fuel tubing) to try out in place of the drive shaft? It would be interesting to see if it would make any difference in running.

I also went back and found a good picture of the gearbox and firebox area. I wanted to see if it would be possible to mount a motor in the firebox. It doesn't look like it would be possible. I think what would be ideal is if there was a motor with a reduction gear box mounted on the motor and then a worm wheel to the worm gear. Just some thoughts on drive trains as I prepare for the brass engine kit I'm going to work on.

Bernd



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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  2:42:30 PM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nifty little package.


Country: USA | Posts: 5328 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/13/2019 :  3:08:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mike, I agree. I do little switching. Yea I know That's not PC for many.
Bernd, I used tubing a lot back in the day. I'm sure it would be a total fail. On the Cab motor; I considered it seriously. The motor would have to be smaller. The smaller motor would have higher (a lot) RPM and less(also A lot) torque. I would loss about 1/2 my weight on the back driver. just a no win all the way around. If I could I would get the angle out.
Frank, Thank you.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/14/2019 :  7:47:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well a step back but still going Forward. Maybe I tried to do too much too quickly but my success was short lived as the decoders started to short out with fatal consequences for the decoders. One of the problem was the additional electrical pickups on the tender and engine. I used .008 wire which bent too easily to stay in place. Talking to Soundtraxx about my problems they felt that the motors might be drawing too many amps because they were working too hard and damaging the decoders. I don't think that's the case but I can't prove it because I don't have an amp meter(one is on the way). Soooo, to move forward, I rewired the engines for traditional DC running and started running them. With the running they are getting broken in are running much better. #7 is reversing a lot better. After about a half hour on pure DC I started to use pulse and the slow speed running of both engines was smoother. I won't run them on pulse much as I believe its harmful for can motors. Do you want more videos? I also played with the LED bulb and resistors and figured out how to set them up.

Bob



It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5194 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Crew Chief

Posted - 09/14/2019 :  8:40:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Well that sucks about the decoders. I can't imagine those small can motors drawing enough amps to damage a decoder, even if stalled.

Perhaps a hot short brought about by the closed circuit making contact with the brass somewhere?

Andre



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/15/2019 :  3:27:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'd be a bit worried about decoders that burned out from 'too much load'. I wonder if Andre's idea about an intermittent short is more likely.

Still, this has been great thread, even when things go badly and Magic Smoke (tm) leaks out of decoders :-(

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7698 Go to Top of Page
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