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 1980 Tom Yorke HO Pool Hall / Bordello Build
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Author Previous Topic: HO scale graph paper available for free Topic Next Topic: Carolina Custom Kits background kit Dardens 1
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Crew Chief

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  06:41:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit darrylhuffman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Almost 40 years ago, Tom Yorke produced a classic structure in HO and O scale. There have been different versions of this kit over the years but I wanted to work with the original.

I have had both HO and O scale kits on my shelf for all that time.

I have been building a lot of HO kits lately and decided it was time to build the HO Pool Hall / Bordello kit.

I began by spraying the hydrocal castings with flat white primer to seal the hydrocal.

I followed this with a variety of earth tone acrylic stains which are simply watered down craft paints available at Michaels and Hobby Lobby for about $1 each.

My choice of colors are heavy on the reddish browns as I intend this structure to be situated in Colorado.

Other areas of the country have more black and grey colors so the choice of colors is up to the builder.

There is no special technique to doing this. There have been lots of articles on painting stonework over the years. So unless people want more specific information, I will just proceed with the build.

After the stone walls were all dry, I dry brushed a light earth color over the small stones to tone them down. It is really easy to make it look like the stonework has the measles or polka dots and I wanted to avoid that look.
I wanted a more uniform look for the small stones.

After the stone walls were painted and dry, I used epoxy to glue them together and to the foundation.

As I go along, I will try to answer any questions you may have.

I figure this build will take about 10 days to complete. I don't sleep a regular schedule so I tend to wake up in the middle of the night, work on the model for 30 minutes or so and then go back to sleep while the paint and glue dry.

A couple of hours later I wake up and do another 30 minutes. I have been this way all my life and this erratic schedule is normal to me.

Having been in business for myself almost all my life has allowed me to do bookwork at 3 am when necessary.

I am 75 now so the bookwork is pretty much in the past. But the model building urge is just as strong today as it was 70 years ago.

Country: USA | Posts: 859


Premium Member

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  07:26:14 AM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The stain work is terrific, Darryl.

Country: USA | Posts: 8526 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  07:50:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great stone painting! Looks wonderful.



Country: USA | Posts: 4192 Go to Top of Page

George D

Premium Member

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  08:47:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks great, Darryl. Thanks for the tip on the final dry brushing.


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16601 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  09:02:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice coloring Darryl.

Looking forward to more!

And I will watch the new video on backdrops.


"And in the end, it’s not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 13065 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  09:28:21 AM  Show Profile  Send Guff an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Stone coloring is a great look on the building.

David Guffey

Country: USA | Posts: 2045 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  4:53:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit darrylhuffman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I painted the interior walls a basic off white just in case I decide to detail it later.

The sidewalk has a light grey stain on it.

The floors are part of the base casting and I stained a basic wood color.

Country: USA | Posts: 859 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  5:07:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit darrylhuffman's Homepage  Reply with Quote
For the front of the hotel portion, I stained the wood with a grey alcohol/ shoe dye mix. I painted the plastic castings grey and then applied a light green. The green is olive green and white.

The green was applied using a sponger to color the part in a blotchy way to represent peeling wood. Doug Foscale uses this method in his kits and it is quick and easy. Brett Gallant uses a similar method but uses a wash cloth to achieve the peeling wood effect.

This shows two vertical posts of 6 inch by 6 inch pieces glued to the hydrocal walls. Followed by glued two plastic panels to the wood pieces.

I used Canopy Glue for this and will use Canopy glue throughout this build from this point on.

Below is a close-up to see the blotched, peeling paint effect.

Country: USA | Posts: 859 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  6:29:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote

You just have to marvel at Tom Yorke’s ability to produce hydrocal stone walls. They are just magnificent. Daryl you did yourself proud on the stonework.


Country: USA | Posts: 6091 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  8:35:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work, Darryl. Good colors all around.

Country: USA | Posts: 3202 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 07/08/2019 :  10:59:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice stonework. Much different color tones than we see here in Michigan.

Karl Scribner
Sunfield Twp. Michigan
Kentucky Southern Railway
The Spartan Line

Country: USA | Posts: 11789 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 07/08/2019 :  11:14:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit darrylhuffman's Homepage  Reply with Quote

I have added two 12 by 12 upright posts which are glued to the side panels. These are larger than the other wood pieces as these serve to support the second floor on the prototype.

Two plastic side panels are added which slope back towards the double doors. There are two uprights where the side panels join the door frame. I later cut these down to the same height of the door frame.

By using Canopy Glue to hold these pieces in place, I was able to form the pieces into the correct angles and then glue them into place.

Canopy Glue is tacky and has a flexible character to it until it fully dries. Very handy when test fitting pieces to form complex angles.

Country: USA | Posts: 859 Go to Top of Page


Premium Member

Posted - 07/09/2019 :  09:11:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

I like the choice of coloring you chose for the walls and flooring on your model. I would like to know the ratio of paint/water used to make the stains you used. This is one aspect of knowing or not knowing what consists of a great colored stain to use on stone walls, and one of my reasons why I don't paint many of them. I would like to see more. Thanks.


Country: USA | Posts: 4680 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 07/09/2019 :  09:51:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I agree with all before me. Excellent work on the stone work and weathering colors. Tom Yorke had some outstanding looking structures, this was one of them. I liked Tom Yorke's Frijole Flats kits.

Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 5000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 16101 Go to Top of Page


Posted - 07/09/2019 :  3:16:27 PM  Show Profile  Send mark_dalrymple an AOL message  Reply with Quote
Looking fantastic, Darryl!

Great job on a great kit. One of my favourites.

Cheers, Mark.

Country: New Zealand | Posts: 1257 Go to Top of Page

Crew Chief

Posted - 07/09/2019 :  3:35:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit darrylhuffman's Homepage  Reply with Quote

Using cheap hobby craft paints as stains.

I buy the little 2 ounce bottles of acrylic paints sold at Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Walmart and other places.

Brands include Americana, FolkArt and others in the same area of the building.

Almost all of these are made by one company, Plaid.

I save lids of cans of peanuts and other such products to use as palettes.

I squeeze a drop of the paint onto my lid and then give it a squirt of water with a spritzer. I use a small spritzer for this.

I then simply dip the brush into the color and then the water and blend them so the color is not full strength but is no more than 50 % color.

I prepare the wall by spraying with flat white primer and letting this dry for a day or so.

This seals the casting.

I begin with a thin wash of Burnt Umber color. I cover the whole casting with this color.

This is mainly to get the dark stain into the cracks and joints between the stones.

I let this dry completely.

I then put a drop of 4 or 5 earth tone colors onto the lid, spray with water and then mix the color with the water and start painting individual stones.

I use a fine tipped brush and paint one stone at a time. I move around the casting so that I am painting about every 5th stone or so the first color.

Then I let this dry and mix another color and again paint every 5th stone or so with the second color.

I then let this dry and paint the third, the fourth, and then the fifth color letting each color dry completely.

I then mix a very thin batch of the Burnt Umber and apply a wash trying to let capillary action pull the wash into the joins between the stones.

When this is dry, I put a drop of a light earth color onto the palette without adding water.

I then use this to dry brush a very light coat of this light earth color over the small stones in the casting to give them a more uniform look.

I am not trying to hide the original colors but am just giving them a light earth tint.

That's it.

If this is not enough information, on my next build of a Tom Yorke kit I will shown these steps more carefully.

Country: USA | Posts: 859 Go to Top of Page
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