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slimrails
Moderator
Premium Member
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 Posted - 02/11/2019 : 11:56:50 AM
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I'm working on a couple of my caboose models, one wood and one steel, that have detail parts that need to be put back in place. I noticed the Erie steel caboose that I painted and lettered has the word "Radio" that I added and, after doing some research, the prototype didn't have the radio equipment add until after my modeling era. The decal may be under a light spray of Dulcote. What's the best way of removing just the decal? Thanks, Guys! 
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Country: USA
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k9wrangler
Engineer
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Posted - 02/11/2019 : 2:19:09 PM
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Decals thick or thin?
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Karl Scribner
HMFWBIC
Kentucky Southern Railway
and associated lines
Midwest Lower Michigan |
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Country: USA
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desertdrover
Engineer
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Posted - 02/11/2019 : 2:57:43 PM
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If you have a clear coat applied over the decal it is a little more difficult to remove. The most successful way is using cotton "Q-tips" and nail polish remover. It can be either the acetone or non-acetone type. You will need a good supply of Q tips. Work on a small area at a time, dip the cotton bud in the acetone and start at the edge of the decal and start wiping the top of the decal, be very careful during this process, do not leave the acetone on and walk away, stay with working with it. Do NOT rub too hard or you will remove the paint. You just need the decal to be removed, so as soon as paint appears on the cotton tip, STOP. Then immediately wash the area with diluted soapy water on a cotton tip. Use a new cotton bud as soon as it is getting clogged with the decal. Be patient, don't rub too hard or too long in the same place. After you have removed the decal you want, wash the bodywork again with the soapy water, and dry it.
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
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Country: USA
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DWARN
New Hire
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Posted - 02/11/2019 : 3:48:49 PM
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I keep a bottle of Walthers Solvaset uncut for this exact purpose - it may take several applications
but the Solvaset will soften the Dullcote. The secret is to go slowly, and do not try to remove everything at once.
I use a #2 Model Master paint brush to apply the Solvast.
Doug
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slimrails
Moderator
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/11/2019 : 4:14:49 PM
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All good suggestions, Guys, and thanks. After I posted, I went back to do my homework and found that, since the Erie started using radios on mainline passenger and freight in 1948, it was expanded system wide shortly after that. The model is a WW2 era steel car made with the permission of the government to replace dilapidated wood cabooses at the time. The "Radio" lettering was added in the early '50s, my time era, so I'm sure it's correct and I'll keep it as is. Sorry for the inconvenience this may have caused.
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Country: USA
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/11/2019 : 4:16:32 PM
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Louis, I've never tried acetone as a decal remover, but I have found it to be an excellent paint remover, so I'd recommend testing on a hidden part of the model first.
I have tried Solvaset on both decals and pad-printed lettering from the manufacturer, and found it to work well, but not so fast that anything scary happened to the paint under/around the decal.
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Country: USA
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desertdrover
Engineer
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Posted - 02/12/2019 : 11:52:30 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by k9wrangler
Decals thick or thin?
Just like on the job. You're invisible until needed.  
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Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
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Country: USA
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George D
Moderator
Premium Member
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Posted - 02/12/2019 : 11:52:40 AM
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Russ, why don't I ever have luck like that?
I don't think you need to apologize. You have some good info posted here.
George
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Country: USA
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slimrails
Moderator
Premium Member
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