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Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics Photo Album | File Lister | File Library [ Active Members: 3 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 102 ]  [ Total: 105 ]  [ Newest Member: red dog ]  All Forums  Model Railroad Forums  Mid Scale Model Railroad Forum  Unwanted Decal Removal  New Topic |    New Poll |   Reply to Topic |  Author Topic   slimrails Moderator Premium Member Posted - 02/11/2019 :  11:56:50 AM       I'm working on a couple of my caboose models, one wood and one steel, that have detail parts that need to be put back in place. I noticed the Erie steel caboose that I painted and lettered has the word "Radio" that I added and, after doing some research, the prototype didn't have the radio equipment add until after my modeling era. The decal may be under a light spray of Dulcote. What's the best way of removing just the decal? Thanks, Guys! Country: USA | Posts: 8380 k9wrangler Engineer Posted - 02/11/2019 :  2:19:09 PM     Decals thick or thin? Karl Scribner Sunfield Twp. Michigan H.M.F.I.C Kentucky Southern Railway The Spartan Line Country: USA | Posts: 10367 desertdrover Engineer Posted - 02/11/2019 :  2:57:43 PM     If you have a clear coat applied over the decal it is a little more difficult to remove. The most successful way is using cotton "Q-tips" and nail polish remover. It can be either the acetone or non-acetone type. You will need a good supply of Q tips. Work on a small area at a time, dip the cotton bud in the acetone and start at the edge of the decal and start wiping the top of the decal, be very careful during this process, do not leave the acetone on and walk away, stay with working with it. Do NOT rub too hard or you will remove the paint. You just need the decal to be removed, so as soon as paint appears on the cotton tip, STOP. Then immediately wash the area with diluted soapy water on a cotton tip. Use a new cotton bud as soon as it is getting clogged with the decal. Be patient, don't rub too hard or too long in the same place. After you have removed the decal you want, wash the bodywork again with the soapy water, and dry it. Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast Post count: 2000 posts added to below count. Country: USA | Posts: 17289 DWARN New Hire Posted - 02/11/2019 :  3:48:49 PM     I keep a bottle of Walthers Solvaset uncut for this exact purpose - it may take several applications but the Solvaset will soften the Dullcote. The secret is to go slowly, and do not try to remove everything at once. I use a #2 Model Master paint brush to apply the Solvast. Doug Country: | Posts: 48 slimrails Moderator Premium Member Posted - 02/11/2019 :  4:14:49 PM       All good suggestions, Guys, and thanks. After I posted, I went back to do my homework and found that, since the Erie started using radios on mainline passenger and freight in 1948, it was expanded system wide shortly after that. The model is a WW2 era steel car made with the permission of the government to replace dilapidated wood cabooses at the time. The "Radio" lettering was added in the early '50s, my time era, so I'm sure it's correct and I'll keep it as is. Sorry for the inconvenience this may have caused. Country: USA | Posts: 8380 jbvb Fireman Premium Member Posted - 02/11/2019 :  4:16:32 PM       Louis, I've never tried acetone as a decal remover, but I have found it to be an excellent paint remover, so I'd recommend testing on a hidden part of the model first. I have tried Solvaset on both decals and pad-printed lettering from the manufacturer, and found it to work well, but not so fast that anything scary happened to the paint under/around the decal. Country: USA | Posts: 5906 desertdrover Engineer Posted - 02/12/2019 :  11:52:30 AM     quote: Originally posted by k9wrangler Decals thick or thin? Just like on the job. You're invisible until needed. Louis Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast Post count: 2000 posts added to below count. Country: USA | Posts: 17289 George D Moderator Premium Member Posted - 02/12/2019 :  11:52:40 AM     Russ, why don't I ever have luck like that? I don't think you need to apologize. You have some good info posted here. George Country: USA | Posts: 15203 slimrails Moderator Premium Member Posted - 02/12/2019 :  5:45:53 PM       Thanks, George. I'm sure the decals were supplied by the kit maker who made period-correct, detailed Erie caboose kits as well as others. I'm almost certain that I bought the kits from Short Line Model Products: http://shortlinemodelproducts.com/epages/a6a1f973-1632-42bd-913c-db17a5410da2.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/a6a1f973-1632-42bd-913c-db17a5410da2/Categories/002 That's why I stopped myself from removing the "Radio" lettering. The kit maker did his homework. Edited by - slimrails on 02/12/2019 5:48:22 PM Country: USA | Posts: 8380 Coaltrain Fireman Posted - 05/08/2019 :  1:11:32 PM     I remove decals with masking tape, burnish it over the decal and give a quick yank. most times it can take a few tries to get it to lift but normally I get it all, of course you have to be able to trust you paint under the decals is up to the task but I have not had a problem with it. Country: | Posts: 1285 john holt Engine Wiper Posted - 05/18/2019 :  4:38:49 PM     The folks at Model Railroader magazine suggest using Pine-Sol, with a Q-tip to remove lettering from cars/locos. I have never tried this myself, but I recently acquired two locos with the same number and I think I may try this method. 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