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 Unwanted Decal Removal
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Author Previous Topic: Street Lights Topic Next Topic: Body Removal of an Atlas RS-3  

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2019 :  11:56:50 AM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'm working on a couple of my caboose models, one wood and one steel, that have detail parts that need to be put back in place. I noticed the Erie steel caboose that I painted and lettered has the word "Radio" that I added and, after doing some research, the prototype didn't have the radio equipment add until after my modeling era. The decal may be under a light spray of Dulcote. What's the best way of removing just the decal? Thanks, Guys!

Country: USA | Posts: 8318

k9wrangler
Engineer



Posted - 02/11/2019 :  2:19:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Decals thick or thin?

Karl Scribner
Sunfield Twp. Michigan
H.M.F.I.C
Kentucky Southern Railway
The Spartan Line

Country: USA | Posts: 10203 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 02/11/2019 :  2:57:43 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you have a clear coat applied over the decal it is a little more difficult to remove. The most successful way is using cotton "Q-tips" and nail polish remover. It can be either the acetone or non-acetone type. You will need a good supply of Q tips. Work on a small area at a time, dip the cotton bud in the acetone and start at the edge of the decal and start wiping the top of the decal, be very careful during this process, do not leave the acetone on and walk away, stay with working with it. Do NOT rub too hard or you will remove the paint. You just need the decal to be removed, so as soon as paint appears on the cotton tip, STOP. Then immediately wash the area with diluted soapy water on a cotton tip. Use a new cotton bud as soon as it is getting clogged with the decal. Be patient, don't rub too hard or too long in the same place. After you have removed the decal you want, wash the bodywork again with the soapy water, and dry it.


Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 2000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 17152 Go to Top of Page

DWARN
New Hire

Posted - 02/11/2019 :  3:48:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I keep a bottle of Walthers Solvaset uncut for this exact purpose - it may take several applications
but the Solvaset will soften the Dullcote. The secret is to go slowly, and do not try to remove everything at once.
I use a #2 Model Master paint brush to apply the Solvast.

Doug



Country: | Posts: 45 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2019 :  4:14:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
All good suggestions, Guys, and thanks. After I posted, I went back to do my homework and found that, since the Erie started using radios on mainline passenger and freight in 1948, it was expanded system wide shortly after that. The model is a WW2 era steel car made with the permission of the government to replace dilapidated wood cabooses at the time. The "Radio" lettering was added in the early '50s, my time era, so I'm sure it's correct and I'll keep it as is. Sorry for the inconvenience this may have caused.


Country: USA | Posts: 8318 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2019 :  4:16:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Louis, I've never tried acetone as a decal remover, but I have found it to be an excellent paint remover, so I'd recommend testing on a hidden part of the model first.

I have tried Solvaset on both decals and pad-printed lettering from the manufacturer, and found it to work well, but not so fast that anything scary happened to the paint under/around the decal.



Country: USA | Posts: 5847 Go to Top of Page

desertdrover
Engineer



Posted - 02/12/2019 :  11:52:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by k9wrangler

Decals thick or thin?



Just like on the job. You're invisible until needed.



Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast
Post count: 2000 posts added to below count.

Country: USA | Posts: 17152 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2019 :  11:52:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Russ, why don't I ever have luck like that?

I don't think you need to apologize. You have some good info posted here.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 15086 Go to Top of Page

slimrails
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2019 :  5:45:53 PM  Show Profile  Visit slimrails's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, George. I'm sure the decals were supplied by the kit maker who made period-correct, detailed Erie caboose kits as well as others. I'm almost certain that I bought the kits from Short Line Model Products:

http://shortlinemodelproducts.com/epages/a6a1f973-1632-42bd-913c-db17a5410da2.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/a6a1f973-1632-42bd-913c-db17a5410da2/Categories/002

That's why I stopped myself from removing the "Radio" lettering. The kit maker did his homework.



Edited by - slimrails on 02/12/2019 5:48:22 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8318 Go to Top of Page

Coaltrain
Fireman

Posted - 05/08/2019 :  1:11:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I remove decals with masking tape, burnish it over the decal and give a quick yank. most times it can take a few tries to get it to lift but normally I get it all, of course you have to be able to trust you paint under the decals is up to the task but I have not had a problem with it.


Country: | Posts: 1284 Go to Top of Page

john holt
Engine Wiper



Posted - 05/18/2019 :  4:38:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The folks at Model Railroader magazine suggest using Pine-Sol, with a Q-tip to remove lettering from cars/locos. I have never tried this myself, but I recently acquired two locos with the same number and I think I may try this method.

GULF COAST & WESTERN


Country: USA | Posts: 350 Go to Top of Page
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