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 Westrail AAR 53' 6" flatcar kit
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Author Previous Topic: Out of the salvage yard..... Topic Next Topic: NMRA AP Cars Certificate Support Thread
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Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/05/2018 :  10:44:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A fellow modeller gave me this kit by Westrail, an AAR Standard 50 Ton, 53' 6" flatcar.It's a fairly comprehensive kit with resin cast sides and ends. I'll start the build in the next thread.

Country: Canada | Posts: 2134

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/09/2018 :  7:57:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Kit comes with s et of instructions, 4 pages, double side printed as well as a second set that includes, photos and drawings to aid in construction.




I also took a quick assessment of the kit contents. The two sides and ends of cast resin, styrene decking and subfloor, brass stake pockets, two Athearn 50' flat car frames, and assorted other parts.





I started the build by drilling out the mounting holes for the stake pockets, with a #62 drill, then gluing them in with CA. After that dried I took my dremel and ground the pins flush with the back of the car sides.





Edited by - Glen Haasdyk on 06/09/2018 8:03:30 PM

Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

tct855
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 06/10/2018 :  09:06:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Glen,
Growing up as a kid & young adult I use to love modeling flat cars of all types.
Never built a flat car kit, so I'm excited to learn & follow along on this build. Thanx Thom...



Country: USA | Posts: 518 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2018 :  12:37:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for following along, Thom.

I made some progress on the kit over the past couple days.




I attached the side and ends to the styrene sheet that forms the subframe, then I started to build the underframe.




As I mentioned before the kit comes with two Athearn 50' flatcar frames. Both are needed to make the main frame for this car.







I started with cutting the bolsters loose from one of the frames. The hole on the underside is cored out to accept a nut for the truck screw.





I used the cut-off coupler pocket as a spacer guide for the bolster placement and drilled a relief hole for the truck screw. The truck screws are short enough that they won't contact the styrene deck that will be applied later. At this time I also cut the center section out of the athearn frame. This is made using only the center cross beam and cutting just short of the other two beams. The instructions give a number of measurements for the other two frame parts but I found it easier to cut the middle part out first, then cut the others to fit.



Edited by - Glen Haasdyk on 06/11/2018 12:51:45 AM

Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2018 :  01:04:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote




It was at this time that I decided to glue the bolsters in and attach the trucks and couplers temporarily so I could adjust for coupler height. I decided to use Kadee #17 scale couplers with the Kadee draft boxes to the ends had to be opened up a bit for them to fit.





After filing the frame ends and some assembly I did a quick check with the coupler and everything lined up.





The kit has a small square steel bar that fits inside the frame parts. This keeps the frame parts aligned, stiffens the model, and adds a bit of weight. I glued this in using the center section and the other frame ends as a guide.




When that had set I cut the two frame ends out if the frame that I got the bolster from. The three frame pieces are sitting loosely on the steel bar for now. I have to pull them out to modify them for the brake system that will be added.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/11/2018 :  05:38:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Interesting that they use Athern frames for the kit's frame. Looks good.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 14463 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2018 :  07:14:20 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very sharp. Nice neat work, Glen.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 3770 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2018 :  08:54:01 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good work and photos, Glen. Following along.


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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/11/2018 :  09:43:43 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'm following along, but I'm curious: There are a number of HO scale 53 foot flat cars available. Do you know what distinguishes this particular kit? Number of stake pockets, frame details, deck or something else?


Country: USA | Posts: 5564 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/11/2018 :  9:35:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for following everyone. I don't think this kit really distinguishes itself from others except that it's an ARR Standard. The instructions have a revision date of 12/12/89 (yes it's that old) so it might pre-date other models that are available today. I don't have a Proto2000 flatcar but I suspect it's close to that.


Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/19/2018 :  12:30:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Progressing slowly along. I had to study the photos in the instructions for a bit to figure out where all the plumbing goes. When I determined where all the bake components went, I pre-drilled some holes in the frame.




The two slots are for the brake levers, and the rest of the holes are for air lines and appliance mounting. The lever slots were made by drilling a line of #62 holes and then connecting them with a small router bit in my dremel. The other holes were all hand drilled. It's easier to drill them now than when the frame is glued to the body.




After drilling the frame, I glued it to the body.


I then added stringers along the length of the underframe, using scale 2X4 styrene. I'm going to plumb the train airline next, then add the rest of the smaller crossbraces.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 06/29/2018 :  9:58:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I managed to plumb the brake system over the past few days.
I started with the train line




I first laid down the brass rod for the line, threading it through the holes I had pre-drilled in the Athearn frame members, then I added the rest of the cross members, cutting slots for the train line.




Then I added the brake cylinder, and triple valve, all pre-drilled for their lines. They all required mounting brackets to be fabricated. I added the air reservoir when I added the air lines.



The triple valve has four holes for the air lines, two go to and from the reservoir, one goes to the brake cylinder, and one comes from the train line. There is also a retention valve that I didn't add.





Finally I added the brake rods to the cylinder and brake levers. I had to cut them short and also cut the train line around the bolster areas so that the trucks will be able to swing freely.

The model is getting pretty close to finished, I have the stirups and grab irons to add, and the deck to finish.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/29/2018 :  10:17:41 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Brake gear adds so much to a model. Looks nice.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 3770 Go to Top of Page

tct855
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 06/30/2018 :  07:14:48 AM  Show Profile  Visit tct855's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Glen,
I agree with my better looking brother Mike, details, details, details!

I just love all flat cars of all types for some reason. I guess because they're a little tougher to model & make work correctly.


This is a cool kit project to follow along with. Thanx Thom...



Country: USA | Posts: 518 Go to Top of Page

Glen Haasdyk
Fireman



Posted - 07/01/2018 :  9:31:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Mike and Thom.

I added the last details before painting.




I added the steps for A-line. The step straps are moulded into the car sides and the Aline steps are mounted from the bottom. This is the first time I've used them and they work quite well.
The drill locations for the eight grabs have small dimples in the sides and ends for locating the drill holes so that was fairly easy.

Before painting I also had to finish off the wood decking. The slots for the stake pockets had to be cut as well as the reliefs for the step and grab locations at the ends.



I then sprayed the bottom of the car and the top of the deck with gray primer. I didn't spray the other sides because I will have to use some liquid cement to mate them together after the painting and weathering is done. The kadee coupler pockets are taped there as masks so I can glue the coupler boxes in after the paiting as well.



Country: Canada | Posts: 2134 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 07/02/2018 :  10:41:15 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You're doing a nice job on what is really a "kit-bash" instead of a kit.


Country: USA | Posts: 4592 Go to Top of Page
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