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Author Previous Topic: Mt. Willard section house. Topic Next Topic: Scenery Challenge, camouflage opening
Page: of 34

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 05/29/2018 :  8:09:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
THAT looks like a tool I could really use.



_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 5105 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/29/2018 :  9:07:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
By 'before', do you mean the point side of the gate turnout (right side of the picture showing the template, the turnout and the QuickStick)? Yes, that's desirable for continuous running in both directions at once. If you hadn't already ordered the double crossover template, I'd suggest two separate crossovers - one using LH turnouts on the right side (?before? the gate turnout, one using RH turnouts on the left (big yard) side. That would let the big yard do a little more without fouling the 'through' route via the gate.


Country: USA | Posts: 5860 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 05/30/2018 :  09:46:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, That long run is looking so good. It will look fantastic when you get a little scenery on it. All in good time. It's really good to see another early rail MRR being built (though I wish you would of posted this tread in the earl rail forum) although you're giving me ideas to buy more tools. I got get one or two of those right angle clamps.

It's only make-believe

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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/30/2018 :  7:22:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Some work on the wall side of the drop gate:

The most important thing is that it's -level- between the two sides of the gate.

I still have more cutting and fitting to do for the gate and I need to figure out how I'll attach the posts on either side so they remain plumb. But this is starting to shape up!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 05/30/2018 :  8:13:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very neatly done, Dave.


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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/30/2018 :  9:20:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I was thinking about the posts vs. not wanting to drill through the new vinyl floor. The posts have to be perpendicular to do their job, otherwise you might as well support the gate only from the layout. So cut a piece of plywood to lie on the floor and positively locate both the base of the post and the leg near it. Screw it to the molding at the bottom of the wall with blocks or metal angles. Paint it to match the flooring. If stubbing toes is a concern, bevel the free edges.


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BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  08:46:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here ya go Dave.





Jim




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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  09:05:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

I was thinking about the posts vs. not wanting to drill through the new vinyl floor. The posts have to be perpendicular to do their job, otherwise you might as well support the gate only from the layout. So cut a piece of plywood to lie on the floor and positively locate both the base of the post and the leg near it. Screw it to the molding at the bottom of the wall with blocks or metal angles. Paint it to match the flooring. If stubbing toes is a concern, bevel the free edges.


Great minds think alike! I've been pondering exactly that approach. I have to have some sort of 1 1/2" tall 'footer' in any event.

The other thing I can do is tap and use a screw down from the benchwork into the top of the post. That combination should make things quite stable.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  1:08:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Turns out that nice barrel latch I got with the aluminum parts won't work as expected:

So I'll need to think about an alternative latch mechanism. I could mount this on wood, then mount the wood to the aluminum members.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  4:16:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's a test fit of the full set of gate components. The bridge piece is sitting on top of the clamps, that's why there's an air-gap between it and the aluminum cross-member.

I still have a lot more fitting and planning, including getting the bases in shape. Plus I need to either buy and tap the tops of the two pieces (they're pre-drilled) 5/16-18 or find a machine shop to do this for me (cheaply).

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  4:52:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

Turns out that nice barrel latch I got with the aluminum parts won't work as expected:

So I'll need to think about an alternative latch mechanism. I could mount this on wood, then mount the wood to the aluminum members.

dave




Huh? Looks like a pretty easy fix. A flat plate with a couple of holes drilled and tapped on one side, and a couple of NBW's on the other side. Did you get some of those 'slider nuts'? The flat black ones?



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  5:26:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim
Huh? Looks like a pretty easy fix. A flat plate with a couple of holes drilled and tapped on one side, and a couple of NBW's on the other side. Did you get some of those 'slider nuts'? The flat black ones?


I'll do that with a piece of 3/4 MDF. I'm more comfortable with wood screws than metalworking :-) I did get some extra screws and oblong slider nuts.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/31/2018 :  6:24:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You might have to lop off a little length on the slider nuts, but they work really well. they of course go on the vertical post. The NBW's on the latch side. A man of your skill will 'git 'er done'.

Jim

PS I thought you were taking a week off this project. Naah, can't do it, can you?



Edited by - BurleyJim on 05/31/2018 6:27:06 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 4416 Go to Top of Page

Norton
Engine Wiper

Posted - 06/01/2018 :  7:56:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly but it looks like you could just swap the locations of the two latch pieces. There is enough length in the mounting holes on the latch side to fit on the vertical and the receiver piece will fit on the horizontal piece quite well. Without seeing the overall placement of the pieces I can only comment on what I see. I presume there is a reason for placing the latch pieces where they are.

The V & T lives in my garage. Soon...

Norton

Country: USA | Posts: 190 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/02/2018 :  4:46:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The footers are in place for the drop gate posts. I may put an L bracket to tie them more firmly into the baseboards, but I think that might not be necessary.


And I did the latch, too. I had to grind down the sides of the barrels where the screws go in (screw heads are bigger than expected, but not by much.) The result is nice and firm (very little wiggle.)


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7654 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 34 Previous Topic: Mt. Willard section house. Topic Next Topic: Scenery Challenge, camouflage opening  
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