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Yes, that's desirable for continuous running in both directions at once. If you hadn't already ordered the double crossover template, I'd suggest two separate crossovers - one using LH turnouts on the right side (?before? the gate turnout, one using RH turnouts on the left (big yard) side. That would let the big yard do a little more without fouling the 'through' route via the gate. Country: USA | Posts: 6513 railman28 Fireman Posted - 05/30/2018 :  09:46:54 AM     Dave, That long run is looking so good. It will look fantastic when you get a little scenery on it. All in good time. It's really good to see another early rail MRR being built (though I wish you would of posted this tread in the earl rail forum) although you're giving me ideas to buy more tools. I got get one or two of those right angle clamps. It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5667 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/30/2018 :  7:22:54 PM     Some work on the wall side of the drop gate: The most important thing is that it's -level- between the two sides of the gate. I still have more cutting and fitting to do for the gate and I need to figure out how I'll attach the posts on either side so they remain plumb. But this is starting to shape up! dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 Michael Hohn Fireman Posted - 05/30/2018 :  8:13:48 PM       Very neatly done, Dave. Country: USA | Posts: 6502 jbvb Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/30/2018 :  9:20:22 PM       I was thinking about the posts vs. not wanting to drill through the new vinyl floor. The posts have to be perpendicular to do their job, otherwise you might as well support the gate only from the layout. So cut a piece of plywood to lie on the floor and positively locate both the base of the post and the leg near it. Screw it to the molding at the bottom of the wall with blocks or metal angles. Paint it to match the flooring. If stubbing toes is a concern, bevel the free edges. Country: USA | Posts: 6513 BurleyJim Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  08:46:47 AM     Here ya go Dave. Jim Take the red pill Country: USA | Posts: 5572 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  09:05:14 AM     quote: Originally posted by jbvb I was thinking about the posts vs. not wanting to drill through the new vinyl floor. The posts have to be perpendicular to do their job, otherwise you might as well support the gate only from the layout. So cut a piece of plywood to lie on the floor and positively locate both the base of the post and the leg near it. Screw it to the molding at the bottom of the wall with blocks or metal angles. Paint it to match the flooring. If stubbing toes is a concern, bevel the free edges. Great minds think alike! I've been pondering exactly that approach. I have to have some sort of 1 1/2" tall 'footer' in any event. The other thing I can do is tap and use a screw down from the benchwork into the top of the post. That combination should make things quite stable. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  1:08:25 PM     Turns out that nice barrel latch I got with the aluminum parts won't work as expected: So I'll need to think about an alternative latch mechanism. I could mount this on wood, then mount the wood to the aluminum members. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  4:16:49 PM     Here's a test fit of the full set of gate components. The bridge piece is sitting on top of the clamps, that's why there's an air-gap between it and the aluminum cross-member. I still have a lot more fitting and planning, including getting the bases in shape. Plus I need to either buy and tap the tops of the two pieces (they're pre-drilled) 5/16-18 or find a machine shop to do this for me (cheaply). dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 BurleyJim Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  4:52:09 PM     quote: Originally posted by deemery Turns out that nice barrel latch I got with the aluminum parts won't work as expected: So I'll need to think about an alternative latch mechanism. I could mount this on wood, then mount the wood to the aluminum members. dave Huh? Looks like a pretty easy fix. A flat plate with a couple of holes drilled and tapped on one side, and a couple of NBW's on the other side. Did you get some of those 'slider nuts'? The flat black ones? Take the red pill Country: USA | Posts: 5572 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  5:26:02 PM     quote: Originally posted by BurleyJim Huh? Looks like a pretty easy fix. A flat plate with a couple of holes drilled and tapped on one side, and a couple of NBW's on the other side. Did you get some of those 'slider nuts'? The flat black ones? I'll do that with a piece of 3/4 MDF. I'm more comfortable with wood screws than metalworking :-) I did get some extra screws and oblong slider nuts. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 BurleyJim Fireman Premium Member Posted - 05/31/2018 :  6:24:55 PM     You might have to lop off a little length on the slider nuts, but they work really well. they of course go on the vertical post. The NBW's on the latch side. A man of your skill will 'git 'er done'. Jim PS I thought you were taking a week off this project. Naah, can't do it, can you? Take the red pill Edited by - BurleyJim on 05/31/2018 6:27:06 PM Country: USA | Posts: 5572 Norton Engine Wiper Posted - 06/01/2018 :  7:56:15 PM     Maybe I'm not seeing this correctly but it looks like you could just swap the locations of the two latch pieces. There is enough length in the mounting holes on the latch side to fit on the vertical and the receiver piece will fit on the horizontal piece quite well. Without seeing the overall placement of the pieces I can only comment on what I see. I presume there is a reason for placing the latch pieces where they are. The V & T lives in my garage. Soon... Norton Country: USA | Posts: 190 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/02/2018 :  4:46:02 PM     The footers are in place for the drop gate posts. I may put an L bracket to tie them more firmly into the baseboards, but I think that might not be necessary. And I did the latch, too. I had to grind down the sides of the barrels where the screws go in (screw heads are bigger than expected, but not by much.) The result is nice and firm (very little wiggle.) dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8498 Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 of 53 Topic    New Topic |    New Poll |   Reply to Topic |  Previous Page | Next Page Jump To: Select Forum Railroad Line Administrative Forums       Forum News       Administrative Posts General Forums       WorkShops, Garage, Machines and Tools       The Tour Bus       The Arrival Track       RR-L Member Personal Websites       The Crew Lounge       The Classroom       Interchange Tracks       Rail Events       Reference & Research Model Railroad Forums       The Sn3 Branch       Mike Chambers' Craftsman's Corner       HOn30 and HOn3 Forum       Early Rail Forum       Dead Rail Forum       The On30 Line       Railroad Photography Forum       Small Scale Model Railroad Forum       Mid Scale Model Railroad Forum       Large Scale Model Railroad Forum       Logging, Mining, & Narrow minded       Model Railroad Construction       Micro & Mini Layouts       Layout Design / Operation Sig Forum       Startin' from Scratch       DCC, Computers and Electronics for Model Railroads Shop Talk       Vehicle and Non-Rail Transportation Modeling       The Steam Shop       The Roundhouse       Rolling Stock: the Car Shops       The Diesel Shop Company Store       Railroad-Line Swap Meet       New Product Announcements Fallen Flag Railroad Forums       Erie / Lackawanna Railroad Forum       Raritan River Railroad Forum Railroad Software Forums       Atlas Right Track Software       Railroad Line Software Library Model Railroad Club Forums       The Model Railroad Club Forum Sponsor Forums       Rusty Stumps Scale Models       KingMill Enterprises Railroad Line Weblinks       Badger Creek Lumber Co.       Central Missouri & Southern RR       Raritan River Railroad       Thor's All Gauge Page  -------------------- Home Active Topics Frequently Asked Questions Member Information Search Page Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co.
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