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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/23/2018 : 5:59:32 PM
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I re-did the lead to the long spur along the stairs. Before, it was too sharp from the turnout. When I re-did it, I made it run too close to the existing track, so I built out the inside to give a bit more of a diverging route curve.

Craig is much better with the glue gun than I am, and this is really hard to do with only 2 hands.
Now I have to figure out how I'll do the Narrow Gauge line against the back wall (passing from the back right to the left in this photo), including how I'll do the sub roadbed under the standard/narrow crossing (just to the right of the turnout on the back line of the standard gauge track.)
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 8845 |
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
   

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Posted - 05/23/2018 : 7:52:11 PM
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Looks good, Dave. You’ve really gotten a lot done in recent weeks, days even. It must be exciting.
Mike
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_________________________________________________ Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced. James Baldwin |
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/23/2018 : 7:54:50 PM
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The spline approach does go quickly, and you get a solid sense of where the rails will go.
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 10:00:48 AM
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Laying out the gate area. The key problem is the curve going onto the gate.


dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 12:40:54 PM
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Here's my current thinking on the drop gate:

The solid line (with the bump-out) is the drop gate/bridge. The dashed line is the edge of the benchwork (45 degree angle to the wall.) Track is penciled in. I put a short straight piece over the actual gap/junction area (although that does increase the bump-out for the gate.)
Comments welcome!
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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BurleyJim
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 3:20:14 PM
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Dave, why not add a 1" block of hardwood to the edge of the benchwork. Put a couple of locating pins in it, and when you lower the gate, you have a consistently solid landing spot for alignment. The 80/20 rail looks classy.
Jim
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Take the red pill |
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 5:30:11 PM
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I have 3 pieces of extruded 1 1/2" square aluminum. Two will serve as posts and the third will be the drop gate. I got a hinge from the aluminum supplier, along with some barrel bolt latches. The central piece will be a little less than 48", while the two posts will be 48", plus 1 1/2" I need to add as the base to get them to align properly to the benchwork height.
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 8845 |
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 6:32:41 PM
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Besides working on the drop gate layout, I put in the blocks for the HO/HOn30 crossing. This will be HOn30 spline to the left side (4 pieces instead of 6), and will probably be homasote-&-plywood to the right, with a couple turnouts and the line (diverging route from the first turnout) heading to the small yard interchange track.

dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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quartergauger48
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/25/2018 : 9:43:11 PM
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Nice progress Dave, you are doing a great job. Going to be quite a layout on completion'..
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Ted |
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/26/2018 : 7:13:38 PM
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I mocked up the HOn30 line that climbs to a quarry in the back corner.
 and

Two tools handy for benchwork, a right-angle clamp and a right-angle drill
 (Both of them from Harbor Freight)
Not shown, but still significant: I cut the piece of homasote-over-plywood that will get screwed to the top of the drop gate. In the meantime, the post on the left is where the gate will rest, and I put a temporary spacer on the right where the track will stick out. I wanted to check clearances, I've already moved the couch a bit away from the choke point at the bottom of the stairs.

dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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jbvb
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/26/2018 : 10:21:06 PM
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While looking at your pictures, a thought popped up: How to model water crossings and drainage with spline? No problem where there's 10+ feet of fill between a culvert and the rail. And I suppose 12-18" pipe culverts could be drilled through the splines with little reduction in strength. Will you place risers at the abutments of truss bridges and trestles? If so, you might also want to add risers and cut the roadbed for deck girder bridges, as girder depth greater than maybe 3-4 feet is more associated with the heavier axle loads and longer spans of 1910 and later.
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/27/2018 : 11:24:33 AM
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I'll cut away the splines for the bridges, but I'll probably need to make sure there are some risers in place where the bridge abutments will go (before I cut away the splines :-) ). I'm pondering bridges along the back wall, for both standard and narrow gauge. (Where the black 24" level is, in the first of the 3 photos in the previous post.)
Thinking about this a little more: I'll install a strip of plywood (i have a lot of 1/4" thick x 4" wide plywood strips) along the bottom of the benchwork. That'll give me something to screw risers into at the right location. And I think that's an operation to do after the track is installed.
How have other people done this (whether you use plywood or splines)??
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
Edited by - deemery on 05/27/2018 12:43:09 PM |
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Country: USA
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railman28
Fireman
   

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Posted - 05/27/2018 : 1:24:35 PM
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quote: Originally posted by deemery
I'll cut away the splines for the bridges,
dave
Commenting with hesitance since I never have used spline construction, I would think you would want to add supports to the end of the roadbed as well as support for the abutments before cutting the spline and losing any tension holding the curves in place.
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/27/2018 : 8:09:17 PM
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I got the back risers installed, but then my enthusiasm stopped. So I might go off and do something else for a couple of days.
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 8845 |
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TRAINS1941
Engineer
    
Premium Member

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Posted - 05/27/2018 : 8:48:47 PM
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Dave your doing a real fine job so far. Keep up the good work.
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Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln |
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