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Author Previous Topic: Mt. Willard section house. Topic Next Topic: Scenery Challenge, camouflage opening
Page: of 34

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/23/2018 :  5:59:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I re-did the lead to the long spur along the stairs. Before, it was too sharp from the turnout. When I re-did it, I made it run too close to the existing track, so I built out the inside to give a bit more of a diverging route curve.


Craig is much better with the glue gun than I am, and this is really hard to do with only 2 hands.

Now I have to figure out how I'll do the Narrow Gauge line against the back wall (passing from the back right to the left in this photo), including how I'll do the sub roadbed under the standard/narrow crossing (just to the right of the turnout on the back line of the standard gauge track.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 05/23/2018 :  7:52:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looks good, Dave. Youíve really gotten a lot done in recent weeks, days even. It must be exciting.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 5104 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/23/2018 :  7:54:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The spline approach does go quickly, and you get a solid sense of where the rails will go.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  10:00:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Laying out the gate area. The key problem is the curve going onto the gate.




dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  12:40:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's my current thinking on the drop gate:


The solid line (with the bump-out) is the drop gate/bridge. The dashed line is the edge of the benchwork (45 degree angle to the wall.) Track is penciled in. I put a short straight piece over the actual gap/junction area (although that does increase the bump-out for the gate.)

Comments welcome!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  3:20:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, why not add a 1" block of hardwood to the edge of the benchwork. Put a couple of locating pins in it, and when you lower the gate, you have a consistently solid landing spot for alignment. The 80/20 rail looks classy.

Jim



Country: USA | Posts: 4412 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  5:30:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have 3 pieces of extruded 1 1/2" square aluminum. Two will serve as posts and the third will be the drop gate. I got a hinge from the aluminum supplier, along with some barrel bolt latches. The central piece will be a little less than 48", while the two posts will be 48", plus 1 1/2" I need to add as the base to get them to align properly to the benchwork height.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  6:32:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Besides working on the drop gate layout, I put in the blocks for the HO/HOn30 crossing. This will be HOn30 spline to the left side (4 pieces instead of 6), and will probably be homasote-&-plywood to the right, with a couple turnouts and the line (diverging route from the first turnout) heading to the small yard interchange track.


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/25/2018 :  9:43:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice progress Dave, you are doing a great job. Going to be quite a layout on completion'..


Country: USA | Posts: 5852 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/26/2018 :  7:13:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I mocked up the HOn30 line that climbs to a quarry in the back corner.

and


Two tools handy for benchwork, a right-angle clamp and a right-angle drill

(Both of them from Harbor Freight)

Not shown, but still significant: I cut the piece of homasote-over-plywood that will get screwed to the top of the drop gate. In the meantime, the post on the left is where the gate will rest, and I put a temporary spacer on the right where the track will stick out. I wanted to check clearances, I've already moved the couch a bit away from the choke point at the bottom of the stairs.


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/26/2018 :  10:21:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
While looking at your pictures, a thought popped up: How to model water crossings and drainage with spline? No problem where there's 10+ feet of fill between a culvert and the rail. And I suppose 12-18" pipe culverts could be drilled through the splines with little reduction in strength. Will you place risers at the abutments of truss bridges and trestles? If so, you might also want to add risers and cut the roadbed for deck girder bridges, as girder depth greater than maybe 3-4 feet is more associated with the heavier axle loads and longer spans of 1910 and later.


Country: USA | Posts: 5860 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  11:24:33 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'll cut away the splines for the bridges, but I'll probably need to make sure there are some risers in place where the bridge abutments will go (before I cut away the splines :-) ). I'm pondering bridges along the back wall, for both standard and narrow gauge. (Where the black 24" level is, in the first of the 3 photos in the previous post.)

Thinking about this a little more: I'll install a strip of plywood (i have a lot of 1/4" thick x 4" wide plywood strips) along the bottom of the benchwork. That'll give me something to screw risers into at the right location. And I think that's an operation to do after the track is installed.

How have other people done this (whether you use plywood or splines)??

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 05/27/2018 12:43:09 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  1:24:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

I'll cut away the splines for the bridges,

dave



Commenting with hesitance since I never have used spline construction, I would think you would want to add supports to the end of the roadbed as well as support for the abutments before cutting the spline and losing any tension holding the curves in place.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5141 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  8:09:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I got the back risers installed, but then my enthusiasm stopped. So I might go off and do something else for a couple of days.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7653 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  8:48:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave your doing a real fine job so far. Keep up the good work.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11406 Go to Top of Page
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