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Author Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout
Page: of 53

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/22/2020 :  6:54:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I added some more PC Board ties, and a keeper across the top of the railheads. Next step is to lay out the wood ties, and then cut the gaps.


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/22/2020 :  10:29:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think you're good on PCB ties as you got two on each diamond.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5712 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/23/2020 :  3:30:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I scanned the turnout, and used a printout to plan and cut the wood ties to fill in the gaps.


In cutting the gaps on the diamond, two of the small frogs came loose. Soldering them back together onto the crossing was a real challenge. Let's just say Apple will not be hiring me to assemble iPhones...

Anyway, here it is on location. I still need to add some more gaps, but those will be easy to cut with a Dremel disk.


Still left to do: the remaining gaps, add the feeder wires, remove the keeper soldered over top of the rails and check connectivity. If that all passes, solder the crossing onto the SG and NG track, paint, ballast....

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/23/2020 3:45:21 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/23/2020 :  7:47:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I cut the remaining gaps, removed the keeper, and checked continuity. All checks out (although I did have to touch up one cut and resolder rail to one tie that popped loose.) I would have soldered the crossing to the rest of the rails, but I ran out of the solder I was using. The other stuff I have is a bit too high-temp to work well for soldering rail joiners.

Now I'll be cutting more gaps later on, to produce a 5" or so block before the crossing on each side. That will eventually be wired into the "interlocking" for the crossing electrical feed.

The other thing I'm considering is partially ballasting the crossing to lock it in place. Right now it's kinda floating on the homabed.

dave







Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/23/2020 :  8:07:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Quite a nice little victory on this project. The ballast will indeed provide some more stability. Good job!

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6163 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/23/2020 :  9:08:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave,

Nice little victory indeed! Congratulations!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7530 Go to Top of Page

k9wrangler
Engineer



Posted - 06/23/2020 :  11:47:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice turnout. If you end(ed) up using a Dremel disc I hope itís thinner than those I have. It cut ok
But gaps looked massive. Mine was not on fancy stuff like yours just std C-100 #4s


Mega Dittos

Karl Scribner
Manistique, Michigan

Country: USA | Posts: 11903 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/24/2020 :  12:01:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent Dave. nice cuts and just a super job.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5712 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/24/2020 :  07:53:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Karl, for the gaps in the diamond I used the jeweler's saw that I got from FastTracks, https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tl-0043. I can thread the blade into the small triangle where the cuts need to be, and then clamp the blade down and start (carefully) cutting. For the gaps in the running track, I used a Dremel cutoff wheel. I'll probably glue in spacers in the running track, since those gaps are pretty wide.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/24/2020 07:55:50 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page

wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 06/24/2020 :  09:55:27 AM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nicely done, Dave.

Chuck



Country: | Posts: 6655 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/24/2020 :  3:12:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm filling the wide gaps (cut with the Dremel disk) with epoxied pieces of styrene. Sometimes (I'm not sure why) it takes multiple attempts to get the styrene to stick. I also drilled holes for the electrical feeds for the diamond. Tim Warris suggested soldering the wire to the PC Board tie next to the rail, rather than to the rail itself. Less likely to unsolder something.


Once the rails are painted, the white gap fillers mostly disappear.

add: I'm having some problems with the epoxy holding the styrene bits to the rails. Guess I'll go buy some fresh epoxy, not sure how old my stuff is...

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/24/2020 8:11:03 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/24/2020 :  8:58:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Dave,
1. Try sanding the surface of the Styrene with #320 grit paper to give that epoxy a little 'tooth' to latch on to.
2. Be patient.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6163 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/24/2020 :  10:00:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
My gap fillers are made by

1) dip the end of a .010 x .030 styrene strip in the nozzle of a tube of Walthers Goo,
2) Insert sticky end of strip into gap from above,
3) cut level with the top of the rail using sprue nippers



Country: USA | Posts: 6804 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/24/2020 :  10:25:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

My gap fillers are made by

1) dip the end of a .010 x .030 styrene strip in the nozzle of a tube of Walthers Goo,
2) Insert sticky end of strip into gap from above,
3) cut level with the top of the rail using sprue nippers



I use the same basic technique, but with CA, and some final sanding with fine or extra-fine nail "files" (the ones with the foam inserts).

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7530 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/27/2020 :  11:26:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I painted ties and rails. I still need to go back and touch up the ties to better match the surrounding track but overall this is done.


Barge cement works better than Pliobond, but neither gives me the permanent bond to the rail that I'm looking for. And 15 minute epoxy is giving a better bond for the gap-filling styrene than my 5 minute epoxy.

Next time, i'll spike rails before I cut gaps. I've had some pops in both horizontal and vertical dimensions. But ballast will hopefully lock the ties and rails into place (whenever I get around to that...)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/27/2020 11:29:18 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 8838 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 53 Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout  
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