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Author Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout
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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 06/21/2020 :  1:45:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If 'a bit' is .010", I wouldn't worry. I'd say .030" is definitely worth fixing.


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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/21/2020 :  2:12:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking Good, Dave!

Another "check gauge" to use is your ears. If you can run an appropriate truck through the crossing and not be able to hear when it goes through, then you're golden. If it clicks, groans, rattles or whatever, then you still have "issues" that will manifest themselves only when you have visitors....

Don't ask....

Pete
in Michigan



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/21/2020 :  4:28:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The real question is whether a .088 wheelset will fall through. Looks OK!


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/21/2020 :  5:12:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It does look good Dave. It's coming right along.

Bob


It's only make-believe

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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/21/2020 :  6:57:59 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Excellent!


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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/21/2020 :  8:13:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
And assembly is DONE!


I tested this by pushing some standard gauge cars through the crossing, no problems. Then for the narrow gauge, I took a truck and started it uphill from the crossing. It rolled down and through the crossing with no problems. It also passed the Pete Test with no unexpected noise. There are clicks as the wheels go over the gaps, but no one click sounds worse than the others.

Before I installed it, I took a variation on the older carpenter trick to check how smooth/aligned a joint is. I put blue dye on the rails, then ran a sanding block over the crossing to see where the low spots (that kept the dye) were. Then I filed down to where most of the dye was finally removed. The rails will need to be polished after all that abuse, but at least I know there are no high spots to pick on a wheel.

I washed the entire crossing in water, then scrubbed it with acetone to remove the residual dye and any flux, etc.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/21/2020 8:36:14 PM

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BurleyJim
Fireman

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Posted - 06/21/2020 :  9:38:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Machinist's trick Dave, carpenter's were only allowed to use pencils. It looks terrific!

Jim


Take the red pill

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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/21/2020 :  9:47:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

Machinist's trick Dave, carpenter's were only allowed to use pencils. It looks terrific!

Jim



What Jim said! Nice job!

Pete
in Michigan

<edit>: this sounds like a good time to break out the Piezo Buzzer rig and test things, too.... Silence is golden....



Edited by - Orionvp17 on 06/21/2020 10:03:40 PM

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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 06/21/2020 :  10:35:07 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looks good, Dave.


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wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 06/22/2020 :  07:27:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nicely done, Dave.

Chuck



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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/22/2020 :  08:15:37 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good looking crossing, Dave.

George


Fly Army

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Dutchman
Administrator

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Posted - 06/22/2020 :  08:24:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nicely done, Dave.


Bruce

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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/22/2020 :  11:46:03 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The question of the day is how to add more PC Board ties and cut the gaps so the assembly remains strong and in alignment.

Here's my current thinking (red lines are the gaps)


Each corner of the crossing is its own 'electrical section'. I think if I add these PC Board ties, they'll be sufficient to hold everything together.

Because of the brass shim underneath the crossing, I'll have to substantially file down the back side/reduce the thickness of the PC Board ties underneath the center of the crossing.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/22/2020 :  1:08:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If you cut on the two straight lines, you divide the diamond into three pieces. I suggest you trust the gaps you've cut into the copper of the ties and stagger the rail cuts so the outer long ties can hold things in alignment. Also, to your question in the Lounge, I'd glue the wood ties to the roadbed, check the fit by putting the diamond in place, then cut the gaps while the glue dries. Finally, spike the diamond to the wood ties and complete the installation.


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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/22/2020 :  1:12:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yeah, I realized that as I looked at it some more.

So here's the latest gap & PC Tie plan:


I'm not sure I can cut those gaps with a Dremel wheel with the crossing in position. My strong preference was to cut them using my jewelers saw, but I'm still pondering how to make the cuts. I don't want the Dremel disk to cut the PC Board ties.

Maybe the plan is to do the cuts in the diamond on the workbench, and then do the cuts on the running rails on location.

Or to take BurleyJim's idea to solder keepers on top of the rail before making the cuts...

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/22/2020 1:19:17 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 53 Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout  
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