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Author Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout
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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 06/18/2020 :  08:20:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Joe, Dave has pretty good access to the diamond location; he didn't have to strain to take that overhead picture. And the actual diamond can be straight, he just has to get it lined up with the approach tracks.


Country: USA | Posts: 6794 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/18/2020 :  12:31:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
remember how turnout kits use to come held together with thin metal strips? You spiked the turnout to the ties, then removed the strips.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5707 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2020 :  11:51:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Some more cogitation on the crossing.

I stuck the rails for one direction down (I use a lot of double-sided "Scotch" tape for projects like this) and then added the guard rails. I marked along the outside of the 2-rail segment.


After doing this in both directions, I can see the interior parallelogram that represents the "see-through' of the center of the crossing.


So now my current thinking is to cut a piece of shim brass the size/shape of the outside parallelogram. Then I'll solder one set of rails (the NG running rails) to that, notch them, add the crossing SG rails, solder to the shim underneath, and then work through the guard rails.

Finally, I'll add a couple of PC Board ties "outside of the crossing" to help hold things together.

When all of that is assembled, I'll carefully cut out the center of the brass shim, and finally cut the gaps in the crossing. The net result should be sturdy. I'll work out the tie pattern underneath the rails, cut and stain the ties, glue them to the rails, and then move the whole 9 yards to the layout, cutting and fitting the rails into position.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2020 :  3:14:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'm not sure how well it will work to cut the gaps before all the rails being cut are securely spiked.


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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2020 :  4:04:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

I'm not sure how well it will work to cut the gaps before all the rails being cut are securely spiked.



Well, I can get the whole thing assembled and checked out (standards gauge) and see how sturdy it is, and then decide between installing first or cutting first. :-)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

jatravia
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2020 :  6:09:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
... first time I have written anything on the forum in forever ...
and somehow I missed that there were 48 pages! Honest I only saw 2 pages the other night and I was refering to the electrical closest! Oy vey. I am going to have to look at the rest of the pages here now.

So odd.

Joe <><



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2020 :  7:36:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Moving along with plan whatever it is now...

I added some long crossing ties to the Narrow Gauge rails and fit them into place.

I also cut the Standard Gauge rails to length.

Then I carefully marked where the SG rails cross the NG, using blue layout dye.

Next I drew the brass shim that will hold the crossing (stock rails and guard rails) together. I cut that out of the paper template and (transfer tape) glued it to .005 brass sheet.


Next I cut out the sheet, including the interior opening. I then put that into a bottle of acetone to remove the transfer tape and template. I fished that out of the bottle so you can see the final shape.


Tomorrow I'll fish that out, smooth out and file down the rough edges, and test fit the shim onto the bottom of the NG and the SG rails (separately). In thinking about this, I really want to notch the SG rails and keep the NG rails intact, so I'll need to redo the notchmarks. But that's OK, check twice, cut once, cuss, and try again :-)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/20/2020 :  6:55:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Progress (I hope!!)


Now I need to decide if I cut the gap in the NG rails, or start adding the SG center rails and guard rails.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/20/2020 :  7:20:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Will the SG rails aid you in guiding your cuts of the NG rails?

Jim


Take the red pill

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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/20/2020 :  7:31:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by BurleyJim

Will the SG rails aid you in guiding your cuts of the NG rails?

Jim



Yeah. I used one of those RibbonRail gauges to help line up the two SG sides. First thing I'll do tomorrow is add another set of PC Board crossing ties and a pair of PC Board ties on the near SG tracks. (I screwed up the first set and had to recut those rails.) I also used the aluminum RibbonRail gauge to line up the base of the rails as I was soldering them (since solder won't stick to the Al RibbonRail.) I think the PC Board ties should be sufficiently strong to hold the entire structure together as I start to cut the gaps.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/20/2020 7:40:46 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/20/2020 :  8:20:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Let me give you some unsolicited advice. If you haven't already, give some thought on how you want to power this crossing and where you need to make isolation cuts. I am enjoying watching you build this.

Bo


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5707 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/20/2020 :  8:46:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, it's actually a little more complicated for wiring, because the SG is DCC and the NG is DC. So this has to be fully electrically isolated. The short answer is apparently a 4PDT switch. The longer answer is that I want to combine the powering with a ball signal animation. Press the button, the whole crossing goes dead until the ball is into the next position. Then depending on the ball's end-state, either SG or NG is fully wired. I'm pretty sure I know how to do that. There'll be short isolation blocks between the main line and the crossing, too, which will either be "enabled for that direction' or 'electrically dead'.

The gaps are actually easy, it's the wiring that's tough. Each corner of the crossing is isolated and fed separately. See the FastTracks template: https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tt-ho-x-30

But back to assembly: In thinking about this more while watching TV, I realized if I cut the gaps in the NG rails for the center of the crossing, there'll be nothing holding those rails in place. So that tells me the right thing to do is to add the SG inside stock rails and the guard rails, starting with soldering that brass shim to hold everything together. So cutting the NG rails will be the last step in assembly, I think...

This is easily the most complex thing I've worked on.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/20/2020 8:48:28 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/20/2020 :  9:19:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That sounds like a really neat scene Dave. Are using printed circuit board ties? They'll hold the rails in place.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5707 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/20/2020 :  9:22:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I'd be happy to contribute a 4PDT toggle from a set I bought at a train show years ago and doubt I'll ever use. You might also want to wire an 1156 (tail light) bulb in series with either the NG or SG feeder to let you know (and provide some protection) if operator error ever shorts the two power supplies together. I recommend they each have separate transformers (or fancier power supplies) fed from 110VAC.


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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/21/2020 :  1:19:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, once I started constructing the inner rails, I decided I really did need to cut the notches through the NG rails to line up the SG running rails.

Fortunately, I have the perfect tool for that job! I got a set of these (I think from Lee Valley), they're used to cut the frets in guitar bodies. They work perfectly for cutting the notch through the rails, and the NMRA gauge makes sure the depth is adequate.


One rail is a bit wide, and I need to decide if I want to try to move that close in gauge. I did run trucks/cars through in both gauges, things were surprisingly smooth!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 53 Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout  
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