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Author Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout
Page: of 53

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/09/2020 :  4:29:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Welcome to My world, Dave!

Keep plugging!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7524 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/10/2020 :  5:37:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
There's a section of the layout that runs underneath the stairs with its sloped ceiling. I decided I really need better access there. So I had to cut away a cross member and cut out a part of the benchwork/plywood&homasote. First, I added a new cross-piece:

(The horizontal piece in the center of the photo.)

I used my reciprocating saw to do the cuts. I've -never- gotten good results with a jigsaw!


Then I could cut away the cross member along the back. So now I can reach the track, my head is bumped up against the ceiling from the stairs above.


I added some supports underneath to hold the cut-out. Over the homasote, I'll use Gaterboard as the base for whatever structures and scenery I use there, making sure the Gatorboard is larger than the cutout it will sit upon.

Needless to say, it would have been MUCH Better to do this before I laid track and did wiring.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/10/2020 5:37:59 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/10/2020 :  6:52:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

<snip>
Needless to say, it would have been MUCH Better to do this before I laid track and did wiring.

dave



Dave,

There are Rules....

My world....

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7524 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/10/2020 :  6:58:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
And there's "good judgement" and how we get that!

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/10/2020 :  7:12:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That, too.... And Experience....

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7524 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/10/2020 :  7:44:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think you're going to glad it's there.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5707 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/11/2020 :  10:27:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A better shot showing the very close quarters in this part of the layout.


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/11/2020 :  8:20:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A little thing, but I added some protection so people don't bump into the exposed track junction.


(And by 'people', I mean 'me'.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/11/2020 :  8:35:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good Plan.

I have a pair of "cargo pants" that is constantly looking for the low kitchen cabinet hardware to snag the pockets for me.... Not helpful!

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7524 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/12/2020 :  4:28:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've had enough wiring and trackwork for a while. I started on the Walthers brick kiln kits. I plugged the gas line holes by enlarging the holes in each segment to 1/16 and then gluing a piece of Evergreen 1/16 rod into the hole. I'll paint the brick before adding the metal banding. It would have been a lot better design if the kiln walls were a single casting, rather than 14 pieces that you have to glue together and then work out the joints. I have a couple more Walthers styrene brick buildings en-route, at least one will go with the kilns for the industry underneath the stairs.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/12/2020 :  7:07:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Iíll be interested in seeing the results, Dave.


Edited by - Michael Hohn on 06/12/2020 7:10:20 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7189 Go to Top of Page

BurleyJim
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/12/2020 :  11:33:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Code 70 rail is good for about 15-18 amps. that little 'connection' of copper clad on the bottom at the junction of the screws might be good for 3 amps. A little puff of smoke, and the deed is done. Remove all other connections and equipment off the rails and isolate all other feeders before you blow that 'fuse'. Check for continuity between the screw heads before and after. You, of course do not want continuity ( a short ) between the the screws. A Class 'C' Fire extinguisher if you want to add some drama, a spritz of air freshener before any "what's that smell? questioning begins.

Jim


Take the red pill

Country: USA | Posts: 6154 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/13/2020 :  8:00:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I started a separate thread on the kiln construction: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=52926

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/17/2020 :  6:54:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's the crossing. I soldered together HOn30 and HO gauge rails. My current thinking is to lay down the NG rails onto some PC Board crossing ties and solder into place. Then bring the assembly back here, lay down the standard gauge rails line up correctly, mark and take back to the workbench. Then I can cut through the NG rails and solder the SG rails into position, doing on my workbench the same that James did on location.


IF I can figure out how to do some PC Board ties to hold the running rails in place without adding short circuts across the rails, I'll be home free. If not, I'll probably end up going back to the location, laying down regular wood ties, spiking the rails in place, and finishing the guard rails, etc onsite.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8831 Go to Top of Page

jatravia
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/17/2020 :  9:44:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, looks like a nice space for your layout. I know there have been a few comments about the duckunder already ... sorry ... I would strongly suggest that you make that a lift out section of track. You will thank yourself later.

Joe <><



Country: USA | Posts: 2833 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 53 Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout  
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