Username: Password: Save Password Register Forgot Password?
Home   Forums   Events Calendar   Sponsors   Support the RRLine   Guestbook   FAQ     Register Active Topics | Active Polls | Resources | Members | Online Users | Live Chat | Avatar Legend | Search | Statistics Photo Album | File Lister | File Library [ Active Members: 1 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 250 ]  [ Total: 251 ]  [ Newest Member: Stuart W ]  All Forums  Model Railroad Forums  Model Railroad Construction  SL&N construction blog Previous Page | Next Page  New Topic |    New Poll |   Reply to Topic |  Author Topic Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 of 53 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/05/2020 :  8:14:05 PM     quote: Originally posted by wvrr Wow, very nice Dave. This is something I don't think I would ever attempt for myself. Chuck I went with these aluminum pieces because they're within my very limited metalworking skill, but still very solid and strong. You can cut them with a hacksaw or with a metal blade in a mitre saw. Everything else goes together with machine screws. Those of you who are mechanically inclined would laugh at my feeble efforts to remember which way tightens the screws, I got this wrong earlier today and had to reset the hinge on the one side of the bridge. The only real complication was the barrel latch, and you can see how I used MDF to hold the latch and to provide space for the machine screws that bolt into the aluminum pieces. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8855 jbvb Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/05/2020 :  8:34:13 PM       My experience with gates mostly comes from the HUB Module Group's entrance drawbridge bridge. It uses an aluminum v-guide to ensure the bridge drops into a repeatable position. Painted Homasote is more stable than unpainted. I haven't used any MDF on my layout, but when I want something wood-like that is stable and abrasion-resistant, I usually use hardboard. Country: USA | Posts: 6817 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/05/2020 :  9:58:06 PM     quote: Originally posted by jbvb My experience with gates mostly comes from the HUB Module Group's entrance drawbridge bridge. It uses an aluminum v-guide to ensure the bridge drops into a repeatable position. Painted Homasote is more stable than unpainted. I haven't used any MDF on my layout, but when I want something wood-like that is stable and abrasion-resistant, I usually use hardboard. It's interesting that most of my layout is done on hardboard splines, and that's where I've had expansion problems. There's a 1/4" of homabed on top of that, so I guess all the expansion could be on the homabed, and not the splines. (1" strips x 6 ) dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8855 railman28 Fireman Posted - 06/05/2020 :  10:20:24 PM     very interesting bridge work. it looks very durable. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5731 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/06/2020 :  12:58:13 PM     The MDF roadbed blocks glued in place. Shims added to keep them level with each other. The PC Boards will be glued and screwed on top of these after the glue dries and I double-check that they're level. Deep throat claps are very useful! dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8855 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  10:23:36 AM     I should mention the barrel latch parts are nicely machined with tight tolerances. There's no wiggle when the gate is latched (I'm guessing the play is maybe .01, if that.) Sometimes I have to fiddle to get the latch engaged, but that is A Good Thing since it means I'm forcing the gate into proper alignment. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Edited by - deemery on 06/07/2020 11:25:01 AM Country: USA | Posts: 8855 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  5:31:40 PM     Today I laid the track. That's the real test for the gate, whether the track works. First I checked the height of the MDF pieces. In one place, it was low by .020, so some Evergreen strips fixed that. I used the old carpenter trick of stribbling over the surfaces with a pencil and then sanding until the pencil marks disappear from all of the surfaces. Then I cut and shaped the PC Board pieces. I marked the end of the ties with a Magic Marker. The tape between the rails makes it easier to see where I have to remove the ties to solder to the PC Board. I cut the notches in the PC Board and checked the rails, trimming plastic ties as necessary. Lesson learned: I should have marked the location for the notch on both pieces at the crossing, so I don't run the risk of an accidental short because the notches don't align. I may file away some of the copper to prevent that. I fastened the track all the way across the bridge, using caulk spread by that notched trowel and set some bricks to hold the track tightly in place while the caulk dried. Then it was time to solder the rails and the guard rails. My soldering skills were barely up to the task... Finally, I cut through the rails with the good old Atlas Track Saw. I slightly rounded off and smoothed the edges of the rail, using the Fast Tracks 'point file'. Then I ran some light cars over the rail to see if they derailed. Nope. The last task is the interim wiring. Eventually I'll do something clever, but for now I'll just put some terminals on the PC Board and hook up the wires through them when I want to run across the gate. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Michael Hohn Fireman Posted - 06/07/2020 :  6:12:52 PM       Fine looking job, Dave. Country: USA | Posts: 7257 wvrr Fireman Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:07:22 PM       Great job, Dave. Will any of your locos have Keep Alives in them? Chuck Country: | Posts: 6658 George D Moderator Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:07:57 PM     No derailments on angled curving track. Good work. George Fly Army Country: USA | Posts: 16811 railman28 Fireman Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:12:47 PM     Dave the bridge is looking good. I would advise that you have a way to adjust the lock/slide bolt. Bob It's only make-believe Country: USA | Posts: 5731 jbvb Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:27:11 PM       Good to see things are moving along! The insulating gap misalignment shouldn't cause issues unless humidity pushes the two sides together. But it's easy to fix - open the bridge and make a couple of strokes with a small file, downward at an angle to cut the copper back from each mating edge. Country: USA | Posts: 6817 deemery Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  8:32:58 PM     Bob, I can adjust the bolt and in fact I did because it had slipped a little bit. I unscrew it from the MDF, and then loosen the machine screws to slide it up/down or back/forth in the aluminum channel. Chuck, at this point, no keep-alives in the locos. Most, but not all the standard gauge locos have DCC. The NG locos are too small for keep-alives, and I'm not sure if I could fit decoders into them. dave Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) Country: USA | Posts: 8855 boomer44 Engine Wiper Posted - 06/07/2020 :  8:59:58 PM     I would say the gate is pretty slick. James idea of beveling the edges would be an easy permanent fix. Gordon Country: USA | Posts: 237 Orionvp17 Fireman Premium Member Posted - 06/07/2020 :  9:23:10 PM     Nicely done, Dave, but if that is true PC board with copper on both sides, and you have not yet gapped the underside, you may find some nasty surprises down the road. Sneak circuit down the screw, under the board and back up the other screw for a short.... Pete in Michigan Country: USA | Posts: 7534 Page: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 of 53 Topic    New Topic |    New Poll |   Reply to Topic |  Previous Page | Next Page Jump To: Select Forum Railroad Line Administrative Forums       Forum News       Administrative Posts General Forums       WorkShops, Garage, Machines and Tools       The Tour Bus       The Arrival Track       RR-L Member Personal Websites       The Crew Lounge       The Classroom       Interchange Tracks       Rail Events       Reference & Research Model Railroad Forums       The Sn3 Branch       Mike Chambers' Craftsman's Corner       HOn30 and HOn3 Forum       Early Rail Forum       Dead Rail Forum       The On30 Line       Railroad Photography Forum       Small Scale Model Railroad Forum       Mid Scale Model Railroad Forum       Large Scale Model Railroad Forum       Logging, Mining, & Narrow minded       Model Railroad Construction       Micro & Mini Layouts       Layout Design / Operation Sig Forum       Startin' from Scratch       DCC, Computers and Electronics for Model Railroads Shop Talk       Vehicle and Non-Rail Transportation Modeling       The Steam Shop       The Roundhouse       Rolling Stock: the Car Shops       The Diesel Shop Company Store       Railroad-Line Swap Meet       New Product Announcements Fallen Flag Railroad Forums       Erie / Lackawanna Railroad Forum       Raritan River Railroad Forum Railroad Software Forums       Atlas Right Track Software       Railroad Line Software Library Model Railroad Club Forums       The Model Railroad Club Forum Sponsor Forums       Rusty Stumps Scale Models       KingMill Enterprises Railroad Line Weblinks       Badger Creek Lumber Co.       Central Missouri & Southern RR       Raritan River Railroad       Thor's All Gauge Page  -------------------- Home Active Topics Frequently Asked Questions Member Information Search Page Railroad Line Forums © 2000-2020 Railroad Line Co.
Steam was generated in 0.56 seconds. Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000