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Author Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout
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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/05/2020 :  8:14:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by wvrr

Wow, very nice Dave. This is something I don't think I would ever attempt for myself.

Chuck



I went with these aluminum pieces because they're within my very limited metalworking skill, but still very solid and strong. You can cut them with a hacksaw or with a metal blade in a mitre saw. Everything else goes together with machine screws. Those of you who are mechanically inclined would laugh at my feeble efforts to remember which way tightens the screws, I got this wrong earlier today and had to reset the hinge on the one side of the bridge. The only real complication was the barrel latch, and you can see how I used MDF to hold the latch and to provide space for the machine screws that bolt into the aluminum pieces.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/05/2020 :  8:34:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
My experience with gates mostly comes from the HUB Module Group's entrance drawbridge bridge. It uses an aluminum v-guide to ensure the bridge drops into a repeatable position. Painted Homasote is more stable than unpainted. I haven't used any MDF on my layout, but when I want something wood-like that is stable and abrasion-resistant, I usually use hardboard.


Country: USA | Posts: 6817 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/05/2020 :  9:58:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

My experience with gates mostly comes from the HUB Module Group's entrance drawbridge bridge. It uses an aluminum v-guide to ensure the bridge drops into a repeatable position. Painted Homasote is more stable than unpainted. I haven't used any MDF on my layout, but when I want something wood-like that is stable and abrasion-resistant, I usually use hardboard.



It's interesting that most of my layout is done on hardboard splines, and that's where I've had expansion problems. There's a 1/4" of homabed on top of that, so I guess all the expansion could be on the homabed, and not the splines. (1" strips x 6 )

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/05/2020 :  10:20:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
very interesting bridge work. it looks very durable.
Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5731 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/06/2020 :  12:58:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The MDF roadbed blocks glued in place. Shims added to keep them level with each other. The PC Boards will be glued and screwed on top of these after the glue dries and I double-check that they're level.


Deep throat claps are very useful!


dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2020 :  10:23:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I should mention the barrel latch parts are nicely machined with tight tolerances. There's no wiggle when the gate is latched (I'm guessing the play is maybe .01, if that.) Sometimes I have to fiddle to get the latch engaged, but that is A Good Thing since it means I'm forcing the gate into proper alignment.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Edited by - deemery on 06/07/2020 11:25:01 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2020 :  5:31:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Today I laid the track. That's the real test for the gate, whether the track works.

First I checked the height of the MDF pieces. In one place, it was low by .020, so some Evergreen strips fixed that.

I used the old carpenter trick of stribbling over the surfaces with a pencil and then sanding until the pencil marks disappear from all of the surfaces.

Then I cut and shaped the PC Board pieces.

I marked the end of the ties with a Magic Marker. The tape between the rails makes it easier to see where I have to remove the ties to solder to the PC Board.

I cut the notches in the PC Board and checked the rails, trimming plastic ties as necessary.

Lesson learned: I should have marked the location for the notch on both pieces at the crossing, so I don't run the risk of an accidental short because the notches don't align. I may file away some of the copper to prevent that.

I fastened the track all the way across the bridge, using caulk spread by that notched trowel and set some bricks to hold the track tightly in place while the caulk dried.


Then it was time to solder the rails and the guard rails. My soldering skills were barely up to the task...




Finally, I cut through the rails with the good old Atlas Track Saw.


I slightly rounded off and smoothed the edges of the rail, using the Fast Tracks 'point file'. Then I ran some light cars over the rail to see if they derailed. Nope.


The last task is the interim wiring. Eventually I'll do something clever, but for now I'll just put some terminals on the PC Board and hook up the wires through them when I want to run across the gate.

dave



Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2020 :  6:12:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Fine looking job, Dave.


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wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:07:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Great job, Dave. Will any of your locos have Keep Alives in them?

Chuck



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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:07:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No derailments on angled curving track. Good work.

George


Fly Army

Country: USA | Posts: 16811 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:12:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave the bridge is looking good. I would advise that you have a way to adjust the lock/slide bolt.

Bob


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 5731 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2020 :  7:27:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Good to see things are moving along!

The insulating gap misalignment shouldn't cause issues unless humidity pushes the two sides together. But it's easy to fix - open the bridge and make a couple of strokes with a small file, downward at an angle to cut the copper back from each mating edge.



Country: USA | Posts: 6817 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2020 :  8:32:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, I can adjust the bolt and in fact I did because it had slipped a little bit. I unscrew it from the MDF, and then loosen the machine screws to slide it up/down or back/forth in the aluminum channel.

Chuck, at this point, no keep-alives in the locos. Most, but not all the standard gauge locos have DCC. The NG locos are too small for keep-alives, and I'm not sure if I could fit decoders into them.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 8855 Go to Top of Page

boomer44
Engine Wiper

Posted - 06/07/2020 :  8:59:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would say the gate is pretty slick. James idea of beveling the edges would be an easy permanent fix.

Gordon



Country: USA | Posts: 237 Go to Top of Page

Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/07/2020 :  9:23:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nicely done, Dave, but if that is true PC board with copper on both sides, and you have not yet gapped the underside, you may find some nasty surprises down the road. Sneak circuit down the screw, under the board and back up the other screw for a short....

Pete
in Michigan



Country: USA | Posts: 7534 Go to Top of Page
Page: of 53 Previous Topic: NMRA AP Scenery Certificate Support Thread Topic Next Topic: Harmony Junction Switching Layout  
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