I've put together a lot of white metal figurines in my time but I've always used 5 minute epoxy or super glue with pins made from brass rod for strength (like dowels in wood working). I had no idea that soldering would even have been an option. Good luck! Cheers, Dave
I have done a little low-temp soldering using Tix solder and flux. I would want to practice a lot before trying to solder pieces less than about 1/8" thick. It might be worth practicing on the sprues from the kit, as 'white metal' and 'zamac' alloys vary, but the sprues ought to behave exactly like the parts.
To do this correctly I will need to learn a new skill (Soldering white metal with low temp solder). Feel free to chime in if you have experience with this aspect of the hobby. Thanks for looking.
Hi Larry. To start get a temperature controlled iron. The next thing is get the correct low melt solder and for flux we use solder flux paste from a plumber (pipe flux is used to solder copper heating pipes). One of my friends said you could use Coca Cola (weak acid) Set the iron to about 90c (the solder is rated at 85c)and use the flux on the metal hold both pieces then put some solder on the iron the touch the metal - the solder should then flow between the parts. remove the iron and repeat. The best thing about low melt is that if you make a mistake you can pour boiling water over it and you get the kit back. Keep the tip of the iron clean don't leave any solder on the tip when you have finished and clean off the flux when you finish. (the tips are coated but any flux will corrode the coating shortening its life. Read the attached for some more tips. http://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/hints/ Try out on a old kit but make sure the metal is clean before soldering.
I started messing around with the train concepts tonight.
This is an example of a canon on class b war department bogies.
Heath was nice enough to do a 3d drawing of these bogies and I had some test printed at Shapeways.
The model bogies are very light but the addition of the metal cannon will fix any and all tracking issues. I am working to figure out the cribbing for the guns.
I made progress today but it sure does not look like five hours of fiddling around. I made six Wrightlines bogies from old stock kits I got on ebay. I updated the wheels and bearings which involved much drilling. I also started a Duncan Models 8” canon as a load. Note, the bogies have a quick disconnect from the load so I can add different loads at will. The piece will navigate 10” radius curves. The model is far from finished and needs sanding and the addition of many small details that are easily broken.
That looks great! I'm starting to get really interested in all these temporary narrow gauge railways. The gun on the back of the bogies is a brilliant load.