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Author Previous Topic: banta modelworks hillside water tower kitbash Topic Next Topic: Tellynott corner module
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Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/24/2018 :  4:20:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Pennman

Tony,
You are doing such an amazing job to this build. I especially like the interior of the engine house, ie: walls, and the appearance of the scenery outside, in one of your pictures. Can you show what you have done on the outside scenery?
I believe those drawers on the workbench would open and close better by the use of drawer slides!


Rich



Thank you Rich. Actually, I haven't got any true scenery as yet, not until I start detailing it more outside. Alas, I feel this is going to be a long time project.

As for the drawers opening, I had many times in the past, including in the Sierra West engine shed, put in desks and benches with opening drawers, but found, as one might think, that they never actually get used as such when in the model. So from now on, I am just going to glue them in, or put on false fronts. If I was going to build a "show piece" I might go all out and add drawer slides, but I don't see that happening anytime soon. And that would be in O scale, not HO.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/26/2018 :  4:27:51 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here is another short tutorial: making boxes. The height of the boxes can vary upon your needs, and using spacers, you can get more accurate on sizing, especially if you plan to make fruit boxes for example, or just want to stack them. I wasn't interested in that here, as a variety throughout the shop would not be noticed.

Sooooo, I started out making sure my strip wood was the exact size I needed, in my case, for a 12" high box. The height of a HO scale 12" box is .138", so I got some 1x12 and 2x12 stripwood to that size (not all stripwood is exact, so a few measurements with calipers are required to find the right sizes. I couldn't just take out a piece that was supposed to be that size).

I also needed a 1x10, and since the 2x12 was being used for the bottom (thicker for easier assembly) and measured .023" thick, I had to find a 10-by measuring .115" wide. These are going to be cut for the ends. The 1x12 are for the front and back (or long sides).

OK, So I now needed to cut the 1x10 to a length of the 2x12 width, or .138" long, and I planned on making 12 boxes, so 24 needed to be cut. I can tell you now, having a micrometer on the 'chopper' would really have come in handy here.

I first laid a 1x12 up against a square face (I have a few gauge blocks that come in handy) and edge glued a piece of 2x12 to the bottom. (I had already precut these pieces to a rough length of about 1-1/4"). I let that dry (using Titebond II glue), doing 3 sets at a time, then started adding the 1x10x.113" pieces on the assembly, let it dry, which doesn't take too long with this glue, white glue would have been a disaster for this. I also used a sheet of 1/4" plate glass to assemble it on to keep it all flat.

When dry, I removed the assembly with a razor blade, sliding underneath, and using a flush cut pair of cutters, cut the boxes free. A razor blade could also be used. Then I finished cutting all the ends flush.

Then I put the last 1x12 against the blocks as before, and glued the boxes to that to 'complete' the box shape, and again, when dry, I cut them loose, and after everything was dry, I used a sanding block to sand the ends flush after cutting off the extra material flush. Really, a lot of this didn't take long at all thanks to the glue I used. Like I said earlier, a white glue would have me in fits as it would keep falling apart as the glue takes much longer to set.

So in just a few hours (I had lunch between some gluing up), I have 12 wood boxes. One thing I also did was to dip the strips in some A/I solution, and when i did, I thought, why doesn't all stripwood come pre-stained, we do it to everything anyway???? A thought to ponder.









Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

friscomike
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 05/26/2018 :  6:45:43 PM  Show Profile  Visit friscomike's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nicely done. I may try it, too! ~mike



Okie logging camp diner (http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50236) and Okie logging camp kitchen: http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47400&whichpage=1

Country: USA | Posts: 921 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/26/2018 :  8:30:58 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by friscomike

Nicely done. I may try it, too! ~mike



Thanks Mike, post it here if you do.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

sgtbob
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  06:54:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit sgtbob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony, Wonderful detail all through this interior.
WELL DONE.

Wanna add a bit more detail?

Here's a shot of a structure that I did years ago. That similar box had one side knocked loose by the
heavy load and you can see the two of the old nails that once held the side in place.




Cheers,
Bob


http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=38921
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45371
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/

Edited by - sgtbob on 05/27/2018 06:54:51 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 3556 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  10:05:44 AM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sgtbob

Tony, Wonderful detail all through this interior.
WELL DONE.

Wanna add a bit more detail?

Here's a shot of a structure that I did years ago. That similar box had one side knocked loose by the
heavy load and you can see the two of the old nails that once held the side in place.

Cheers,
Bob




Thanks Bob, that is perfect. I looked at the photo at first, being the subject of recent is on boxes, and saw the broken end, and thought about asking permission to use that detail, (which I knew you would consent either way), and there you go, giving me the go-ahead right off the bat. Thank you, I will definitely use that.

Let me see, a nail is about 1/4", maybe, so HO scale will be .002", oh yeah, easy to do.

I'll keep you all posted on that part. Love it....


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Edited by - Nelson458 on 05/27/2018 10:08:06 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

sgtbob
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  11:06:36 AM  Show Profile  Visit sgtbob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony, I knew you would use that detail and can't wait to see your result. While on the subject of
scale boxes, that box leaning against the wall behind the chair is resin. I had taken a bunch of
styrene strips and added grain to them by swiping them with course sandpaper. After building various
size boxes I made a rubber mold of them and cast them in resin. They paint up quite well.

Cheers,

Bob


http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=38921
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45371
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/

Country: USA | Posts: 3556 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  12:49:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Well, Bob, I did it, just in the last couple of hours. Here are a few pictures of the process.




















Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  1:14:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Tony, that box looks great. I will look even better in normal viewing.

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4737 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  1:56:13 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by railman28

Tony, that box looks great. I will look even better in normal viewing.



Thank you, it sure will. I'll be using this one outside, as it would be seen more.

As a reference, I used a .009" drill bit, and Ticky Train's .008" bronze wire. The ends were painted with Testor's brown rubber color, as acrylic doesn't take to bronze well, if at all. All the wood is 2-by stock, 6" for the bottom, 8" for the sides. They were already stained, and just laying around ready to be used. The important thing here is to make sure the ends are square, which one, it greatly increases the chances of getting a even hole drilled, and since they are left open on the ends, will look good too. I just lightly sanded them with a sanding block by hand. I added some small brown paint dots on the other corners by dipping the bronze wire in the paint, and dabbing that on the ends.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  1:59:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by sgtbob

Tony, I knew you would use that detail and can't wait to see your result. While on the subject of
scale boxes, that box leaning against the wall behind the chair is resin. I had taken a bunch of
styrene strips and added grain to them by swiping them with course sandpaper. After building various
size boxes I made a rubber mold of them and cast them in resin. They paint up quite well.

Cheers,

Bob



It just clicked what you said about the resin casting. I was in a rush to post as my wife shouted that lunch was ready. But that sounds like a great idea. Thank you for posting that picture, that was a fun and interesting detail to build, and will look great in a prominent spot.


Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

sgtbob
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 05/27/2018 :  4:38:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit sgtbob's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Tony,

Fantastic job !! I knew you could do it justice.

Bob


http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=30102&whichpage=1
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=38921
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45371
http://www.freewebs.com/santmod/

Country: USA | Posts: 3556 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  5:17:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bob, look at the added detail: I started out with a Ticky Train jack, cut off the plastic top, and screwed in a 1mm bolt after I added a nut where I drilled a .022" hole in the side for some brass wire for a handle. I wanted to make it look like it was left out after it seized up and rusted after it was tossed in the box, which broke it. I still want to add some more smaller screws and a few details to fill the space a little. Thanks for the idea.
















Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page

Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 05/27/2018 :  6:42:29 PM  Show Profile  Visit Carl B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Amazing work!


Country: USA | Posts: 2978 Go to Top of Page

Nelson458
Fireman



Posted - 05/27/2018 :  6:43:19 PM  Show Profile  Visit Nelson458's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This is a final shot, although not set into the scenery yet, it looks better than sitting on paper.




Tony Burgess
Exploring the unknown requires tolerating uncertainty.~ Brian Greene

Country: USA | Posts: 2990 Go to Top of Page
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