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[ Active Members: 7 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 85 ]  [ Total: 92 ]  [ Newest Member: Davidsamuels ]
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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/04/2017 :  08:03:22 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
David,

You might consider styrene sheet for the base of the deck, maybe styrene boards or scribed sheet for the decking. It is likely to have been painted to begin with. There are ways to paint and weather styrene to look like wood.

Some kind of bracing or decorative brackets are appropriate.

Mike


____________________________________
And we gazed upon the chimes of freedom flashing. Bob Dylan

Country: USA | Posts: 2202 Go to Top of Page

David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/06/2017 :  09:54:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Mike. For the moment, I am trying bracing what I have at 90* to the grain of the base. IS this doesn't work, I'll go to the styrene next.

Here's few pics to show to what what I'm doing. Two slots were cut into the tower to accommodate two of the center braces. The outer braces are outside the tower. I am beginning to add some cross braces, although I suspect those are more likely to be cosmetic rather than functional.










Edited by - David J Buchholz on 03/06/2017 09:59:47 AM

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David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/07/2017 :  10:39:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Back to the Tower Railing issue. Well, after trying three different materials, Grandt Line styrene. Ketstone, MEtal castings, and Ticky Plastic railing, None have proven suitable or the least bit durable. Since they were all injected flat, the problem has been curving them without breaking them. Heating makes them warp.

The Tichy stuff looks beautiful, bends easily, but after a few days, snaps from the pressure of holding the bend. If heated to bend, it shrivels up. Additionally is the problem of connecting sections together. They will be used for short sections of straight platform railing so my 1/87 people don't fall off into the scenery, or roll down the hill into the bay.

So sounds like a trip to the craft store to get a spool of thin brass wire, so that the rails can be one piece all the way around, and posts can be soldering at any chosen interval.

Thoughts and comments appreciated



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LaRueD
Crew Chief



Posted - 03/08/2017 :  04:48:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David,
Interesting and creative imagineering

I agree with Railrunner's suggestion of too much green roof which might be more visually interesting by adding windowed dormers?

I look forward to your progress.

Delbert




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Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 03/08/2017 :  08:44:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, there are a lot of photo etched railings, though they are more elaborate than the Tichy railing you liked and I'll bet their posts won't be spaced evenly around the deck after you bent them.
I think the simplest at this point (visual & fabrication) would be to solder wire for the railings like you are considering. The stanchions could also be wire, or perhaps some of the brass stanchions available for diesel railings if you want a little more detail beyond a round wire post.



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wvrr
Fireman



Posted - 03/08/2017 :  09:43:26 AM  Show Profile  Visit wvrr's Homepage  Reply with Quote
VectorCut makes some stanchions. You have to supply the wire for the railings.
http://www.vectorcut.com/index.html

Chuck



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David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/08/2017 :  10:54:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Answers:

LarueD. Plans are in the works to add dormers to the roof. Two possible avenues. 1) I have two round windows, that could be centered over each building. 2) I have three small, double wide windows , that could be centered one over each building, and one over the passenger area. I am leaning toward the round windows to correlate to the theme of the round tower.

Chuck and Bill, thanks for reminding of the vector cut offerings, and other stanchions. Looking at them, I'm inclined to just bite the bullet here and make my own.

I stopped by "Michaels" hobby/craft store and found some 18 and 20 gauge wire for rail and Stanchion fabrication (respectively) Looking for some beads or stamped jewelry component to make top and bottom (base) detailing more decorative, rather than just plain wire.



Edited by - David J Buchholz on 03/10/2017 08:35:21 AM

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LaRueD
Crew Chief



Posted - 03/08/2017 :  1:27:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David,

If I may, here are some images of my Bar Mills Saulenas' Tavern hack in which I incorporated round portal windows and weathered copper roofing ...

Delbert








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David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/08/2017 :  9:43:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Intersting window ya got there Delbert. I never thought of it being installed in a round bay. MAKES ME WONDER.

So I was working with the wire today to make the railing. After making a jig, cutting the wire, and gathering my soldering tools. I discovere that the wire is not solderable because it had been lacquered at the factory.

Nothing on the packaging gave me an indication of this being the case. Kind of pi$$ed me off. I'd been considering using the balance of the rolls as bus wire under the table. Now I wonder how to tell if the NEXT wire i buy is similarly lacquered when the label may not even mention it.. This was a definite error.



Edited by - David J Buchholz on 03/09/2017 11:26:23 PM

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David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/09/2017 :  3:08:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK , so I picked up some K&S brass rod at the hobby store (Dan's Crafts and Things) I'll run a little fine find paper or steel wool on it first, and I should be good for railing attempt 4.1


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David J Buchholz
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/09/2017 :  11:29:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Attempt 4.1 went much better. I went back to products I can depend on for quailty and Known characteristics. The first step was the brass itself. Two sizes, the larger for the posts.





Next was cutting it to size, loading it into the jig, and soldering it up. The solder I use is the thickness of sewing thread, not the typical pipe stuff or even what you usually find for electrical work. IT'S THIN!

Note the spacing of the three wires for the rails.They are staggered, something I learned would be of structural and forming benefit from attempts with the other materials. One is on the first wire, The other two are set +/- 1 from the first upright to create an overlap on the seam.




Next up is the soldered railing formed up an fitting into the base. Next issue was the "metal" bases were only plated plastic. So they were glued, not soldered onto the uprights.





I wanted to continue with the patina'd copper look for the railing to match the tower turret cap and the copper roof on the buildings. (paper roof-not the real thing yet)





Edited by - David J Buchholz on 03/12/2017 10:59:01 AM

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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2017 :  08:21:02 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
David,

Very nice. Working with brass and solder at that small scale is fussy but worth the effort.

I like the look of the patina.

Your station looks like it belongs by the sea, very appropriate.

Mike


____________________________________
And we gazed upon the chimes of freedom flashing. Bob Dylan

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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/10/2017 :  08:26:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Not an easy solution, David, but a good one. Nice neat soldering.

George



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postalkarl
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2017 :  09:23:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hey David:

WOW!!!!! Now that's really cool.

Karl



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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 03/10/2017 :  10:25:27 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice railing, the patina is a good choice.


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