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Author Previous Topic: An Old Man Contemplates an Old Mans Layout Topic Next Topic: What to do with it all
Page: of 27

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/14/2018 :  10:42:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
heh heh heh heh. My jig must be related to your jig. I think every pile ended up a different length.
Don't be too worried about some piles not meeting the water. If your gel is the same as what I used you can come back after it dries, (a few days), and add tiny bits of gel around any obvious piles that don't meet the water. New gel will blend right in with that which is already dry. I've often come back and added a bit here and there. Depending on heat and humidity, and how thick you apply it, it may take a few hours or a few days to go completely clear.

Looking good.

bruce



Country: Australia | Posts: 391 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/15/2018 :  12:07:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce, thanks for the encouragement. From experience on the little trial spot, it will take at least 24 hours to fully dry. We'll see tomorrow!
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/15/2018 :  03:13:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave I live in a sub tropical climate. I only apply the gel about 1/8" thick. Yet after 24-36 hours some of it can still be milky. Touch dry but still soft. Depending on the temp it may take 2 or 3 days to dry properly. Don't panic if it's still soft in a week.
I have gone back a week or two later and touched up some spots and weeks later you can't tell where the touch ups were.
Keep the dust to a minimum. Stray dust will stick to the surface until it dries out completely.

It's fun. I've buried all sorts of junk in my water. Half barrels and boxes that look like they are floating in the water. You can add them later if you wish. Just cut a drum in half. Apply a small amount of gel to it and stick it on the water. A few days later you'll look like a genius with all that detail in the water!!!





Country: Australia | Posts: 391 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/15/2018 :  1:24:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bruce, I know there should be all kinds of junk in the water, from floating organisms, man-made flotsam and jetsam, oil slicks, etc. I feel too little might look like it's underdone and too much might be ridiculous. I haven't been able to find any pictures of 1940's dock water yet but I'm still looking.
I do still have some milky spots.
Another weird thing I discovered - despite being really careful to make my track on the wharf the same level as the track coming off the land it seems I am an 1/8" higher wharf-side. So the bents I made to carry the track over that space are fine on the left side but too low on the right side. I wonder if I can make up that gap with gel?
Thanks for checking in.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/15/2018 :  4:02:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave I would throw some junk around on the water. When it looks right 'glue' it down with gel. You wont need much gel.You wont see the difference when it's dry.
I had the same issue with my #3 wharf. So I hung it at the correct level and then poked some gel around the pilings that were swing in mid air! Never know the difference now. (I also made an ooops with side clearance so now the engineers have to be aware of what they can run onto the wharf. An operation challenge. Deliberate of coarse!!!!!).

bruce



Country: Australia | Posts: 391 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/15/2018 :  9:46:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I stuck my mock up buildings on the wharf to see what they looked like. There's a view looking down the tracks as well as from the "sea side". I think that the planned wharf height is too high, although it is at the height of the boxcar opening. Also the building on the left side seemed a bit too short so I stuck another 6 scale inches under it.








This picture has the taller building - I don't know if you can see a difference.


This is the "bridge" to mainland for truck traffic. The track is a bit close to the rocks so the bents I made fit better if sideways. It looks goofy so I may trim them and once I build out the width so that a truck can drive across it will hopefully not be noticeable.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome!
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 01/15/2018 :  10:10:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lookin Great!

Philip



Country: USA | Posts: 2469 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/15/2018 :  10:10:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave I like the extra height on the building. I would keep the 'goofy' bents. Those old timers done some 'strange' things in their days. Besides it may be a recycled structure being used for something different than what it was built for.

It's easy to build what is 'normal'.

Looking forward to seeing it all evolve.

bruce



Country: Australia | Posts: 391 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/15/2018 :  11:34:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for checking in, Phillip!
Bruce, thanks for the support.
I painted up some paper for the siding and "stripped" it. I'm now a little concerned that I might not have put enough paint on the brownish ones - there's a lot of the base colour showing - but maybe it will just look more weathered. For the white siding, I used a sponge dabbed in white and then some grey to give it a mottled look.

Cheers,
Dave









Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 01/16/2018 :  09:32:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave the strips look great. Looking forward to seeing them on the building.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 10783 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/16/2018 :  1:31:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Jerry!
This will be brand new territory for me. I have been scouring the forums for how others did it and it should be achievable. Just have to cut out my window and door openings, draw my alignment marks on the walls and apply the two-sided tape. I have to remember to leave enough overhang on the side edges to cover the 1/4" wall overlap, since I'm using foam core sheets. I don't think I can add a sufficiently wide corner trim to cover that thickness without it looking foolish. Also have to decide on a trim colour for the doors and windows. Haven't even picked an industry for these buildings....maybe I should do that.
Thanks for stopping by.
Cheers,
Dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

brucet
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/16/2018 :  4:17:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave FWIW I've clad a few buildings in paper siding! I've painted my own like you have. But also found some timber like paper sheets in the craft stores such as Hobby Lobby. If you get the fine grain ones they will work ok. Cut them into strips and your in business.
My biggest issue with making my own paper siding is hiding the white edge of the paper. Craft stores sell coloured paper that has the colour all the way through it. So when cut there is no white edge. I started with some grey and brown paper. Applied the paint on it like you did. Once cut and applied it looks very convincing.

bruce



Country: Australia | Posts: 391 Go to Top of Page

Guff
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/17/2018 :  1:03:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
David, you nailed it with the coloring. The siding will look good on your building!
You may want to double check your foam board thickness since some foam board is only 3/16" net thickness. A lot easier than trimming the 1/4" overlap if foam board is undersize.
Dave



Edited by - Guff on 01/17/2018 1:04:29 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 1528 Go to Top of Page

David Clark
Fireman



Posted - 01/17/2018 :  5:03:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Jerry, I painted my siding on the (now) famous Canson Mi-teintes paper. It is coloured right through.
Thanks, Dave, for the stamp of approval. I'm not sure what you mean it being easier to trim 3/16 than 1/4". I believe you ar right, though, the foam board is less than 1/4". I was planning on just extending the siding that extra 3/16" or so to cover the exposed foam on the sides which overlap. If I'm missing something or there is a "better way", please let me know.
Cheers,
dave



Country: Canada | Posts: 1126 Go to Top of Page

Terrell
Fireman

Posted - 01/17/2018 :  5:50:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, the way I do it is to notch the foamboard.





As you know the foamboard is made of foam sandwiched between two layers of heavy paper. After I've put the siding down I cut about 6mm off one of the walls through the first layer of paper and all of the foam down to the second layer of paper and remove it. You can also sand the second layer of paper even thinner. Then the walls are notched together. No foam showing.



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