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[ Active Members: 7 | Anonymous Members: 0 | Guests: 103 ]  [ Total: 110 ]  [ Newest Member: tillerman1 ]
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 Rolling Stock: the Car Shops
 Tyco 1890 Passenger Cars
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Author Previous Topic: HO scale rolling stock by Bill Gill Topic Next Topic: Scratchbuilding a Two Axle Gondola  

Railrunner130
Engine Wiper



Posted - 11/16/2016 :  10:08:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote


I had purchased these two cars some time ago. I can't remember if I got them at a show or off Ebay. I thought they were even purchased separately, but the repaint and lettering looks identical. My intent was to upgrade them. As many of you will recall, the Tyco/Mantua 1890 passenger cars were sold with a cartoonish piece of paper with passengers and window shades printed on them.

I hunted high and low for a long time for suitable trucks because the couplers were connected directly to them. As a result, I have a ton of extra trucks laying around... Finally, I decided to use my Dremel and cut the coupler arms off. I don't think they're noticeable.

Next, I added a pair of Kadee couplers and draft gear boxes to each one.

Disassembly proved that the paper inserts could come out and be replaced by clear plastic. Perhaps later I'll add window shades to them. The roof over the clerestory windows could not be removed, so that was left alone.

A quick shot of paint on the railings and here are the results!


Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine"

Country: USA | Posts: 277

Bernd
Fireman



Posted - 11/17/2016 :  07:35:42 AM  Show Profile  Visit Bernd's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking good.

Bernd



Country: USA | Posts: 2106 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2016 :  08:02:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice upgrade of the cars.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 13633 Go to Top of Page

boomer44
Engine Wiper

Posted - 11/17/2016 :  08:04:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nicely done. Look fine behind that locomotive.

Gordon



Country: USA | Posts: 164 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/17/2016 :  09:20:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice job... Those cars are really too short for 1890s (I've lobbied Bachman to do a set of 65' cars to haul behind their 4-4-0 and 2-6-0), but your tune-ups and coloring look really good.

For alternate passenger car (and freight car) trucks, check out Bitter Creek Models (http://www.bittercreekmodels.com).

dave



Country: USA | Posts: 6157 Go to Top of Page

Philip
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 11/17/2016 :  10:22:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nicely Done!

I have a string of those in HO scale (roundhouse) V & T with a Genoa leading the way. I like those short cars.

Dave, were 36 foot cars not prototype as represented by MRR manufacturers?

Philip



Edited by - Philip on 11/17/2016 10:39:10 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 2062 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 11/17/2016 :  11:53:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Philip, Two short passenger cars were built for use on the Sierra Railroad's Angel camp branch. They were short to accommodate the sharp curves of that branch. The Virginia And Truckee also had very tight curves and their first passenger cars were also short. Most injected plastic Model companies used their cars as the prototype for their models. All other standard gauge railroads used passenger cars that were longer. About 50' in the 1860's, 65' in the 1890's.

It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris

Country: USA | Posts: 4094 Go to Top of Page

Railrunner130
Engine Wiper



Posted - 11/17/2016 :  7:15:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks everyone!

Dave- that website is a nice find. Thanks for sharing!



Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine"

Country: USA | Posts: 277 Go to Top of Page

CavalryTrooper25
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/17/2017 :  6:09:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Most of the old Tyco/Mantua talgo trucks have a delren split pin, that is pushed up through the mounting hole in the bolster. I remove them, by wiggling the truck body to compress the split pin, and allow the truck to be removed. Then I set the trucks aside. I then take a pice of styrene tubing that is either 5/32, or 3/16, (depending on the hole size in the bolster) drill out the hole in the bolster, and glue the tubing in. Let that cure overnight, then trim it flush, on both sides of the floor. Now, take 1/8 styrene tubing, and test fit, and drill/ream out the larger tubing as needed, then glue the 1/8 tubing inside the larger tubing. You can make it flush on the bolster side, or leave a small kingpin sticking down to center, and guide your truck, as needed/desired. Again, let this cure overnight, then trim off the next day. I then set it aside for an additional 24, to 48 hours, depending on how much liquid cement I had to apply to get a good bond. Then I run a pilot bit through the smaller tube to ensure that any glue, or gunk is clear, then I run a 2.56 tap through, leaving a nice set of threads behind.

Now you can finish the floor as you wish, paint it, and then use nice trucks, held by a screw when it suits you.

If you ever wear out the threads you tapped, simply drill out the 1/8 tube, and glue in a new one.

Horse




Country: | Posts: 433 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/17/2017 :  6:48:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
After you tap the plastic, dribble some thin CA glue into the hole, let dry thoroughly, and re-tap. The CA glue reinforces the threads. (Learned that tip from Bob McGlone, it also works well for resin kits)

dave



Country: USA | Posts: 6157 Go to Top of Page

CavalryTrooper25
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  1:37:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Dave;

Excellent additional info, I will have to add that step to my process.

Horse




Country: | Posts: 433 Go to Top of Page
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