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Author Topic Next Topic: Gallows construction
Page: of 16

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/27/2017 :  7:59:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Guys,
All the linkage is turning out to be a really slow process. I have had to redo several times.
I went and picked up the turned pulleys, turned out pretty cool! They will need some cosmetic changes to look like the real ones. More Welding and another Carl's Jr Western Bacon Cheese Burger!





Edited by - Mudhenbill on 02/01/2017 2:16:39 PM

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Ray Dunakin
Fireman



Posted - 02/01/2017 :  11:13:09 PM  Show Profile  Visit Ray Dunakin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I see you already have a shoe for your iron horse. ;)




Country: USA | Posts: 3010 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/01/2017 :  11:34:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is pretty cool.

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 9184 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/08/2017 :  3:21:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes sir, one step closer! I have the piston rods done. Lot of welding and adjusting. The brass cap you see in the picture is a brass lamp base. They just happened to be the correct size for the cylinders. The part attached to the cap is made from resin and painted Brass with a bronze bushing installed. The rod is ground and polished stainless steel and the piece that the whole thing slides on is stainless Key stock. Let me tell you, this is hard stuff to drill with the tools I have.



The axle and bearings are taking some time to figure out. The real loco was made with leaf springs from a car for suspension. Mine is way to light for that so I working a bearing block method. First thought was using same method as the big boys. Problem surfaced when I realized the way I made the frame would not let me do it that way. I am know using a block that uses bolts as guides. I made a trial run out of wood. It worked OK however I was trying to thread the frame on one side. I have found this causes issues if the holes on top and bottom are not Perfectly lined up. So I went with holes in both top and bottom of frame and am awaiting a longer bolt. You would think that if they offered 5" 6" and 8" at Lowes they would have a 7" bolt. Oh No so I had to find it online. Here are a couple pics of the wood block and the Resin blocks I will be using. I will be drilling out for bearings with a retainer of some sort on the back side.The springs have a rating of 24 LBS each. Should be plenty.









Edited by - Mudhenbill on 02/09/2017 12:21:10 AM

Country: | Posts: 321 Go to Top of Page

MarkF
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/09/2017 :  12:36:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your approach to the various parts of this project continues to fascinate me. Excellent!

Mark

Country: USA | Posts: 13119 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 02/09/2017 :  10:37:35 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I think you're having way more fun building this than the kids are going to have riding on it.


Country: USA | Posts: 3647 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/09/2017 :  7:18:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Your probably right.


Country: | Posts: 321 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/13/2017 :  12:19:18 AM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The more I do on this engine the more fun I have. Something about creating from nothing more than a picture and making it work is awesome!
Drilled out the bearing blocks to fit the bearings. The block is a 1/4 inch thicker than the bearing. This allowed me to resin in the bearing from the back. I wanted it to grab the bearing on the edge of the outside ring so I made some rubber plugs from small measuring cups. I placed them on the bearing and then filled the void with Alumilite





While resin-ing, I turned to the wheels and filled the center so as to hold the axle correctly in place. I am using a metal collar with key in the rear. I also added the counter weight. it is not finished yet but you get he idea. I was really happy to see that my suspension worked as it should.I didn't think it would allow one wheel to drop by it self but it does. Another sleepless night dreaming worked.






Still have to cut the axles to size and have them drilled and tapped for a bolt on the front side.




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potsy
Engine Wiper

Posted - 02/13/2017 :  08:49:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your work is amazing second to none !!!



Mark



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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 02/13/2017 :  11:06:10 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Chuga- Chuga


Country: USA | Posts: 3647 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/13/2017 :  3:31:42 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Choo Choo! Thanks Mark, The trick is dreaming it then making it happen. Really anyone can do it you just have to think three steps ahead.Right now I'm thinking of the rods.


Country: | Posts: 321 Go to Top of Page

Grubes
Crew Chief



Posted - 02/13/2017 :  9:49:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill,

I wondered if you were keeping an inventory of all the things you've used for your build. In the end it would be interesting to look at what I know will be a beautiful piece of artwork/machinery and know it was build from odds and ends.

Dave



Country: USA | Posts: 524 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/14/2017 :  12:19:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hi Dave,
Yes I am as well as the receipts. I am afraid to look at that until I'm done.



Country: | Posts: 321 Go to Top of Page

Mudhenbill
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/22/2017 :  12:58:27 AM  Show Profile  Visit Mudhenbill's Homepage  Reply with Quote
When I run into a design issue I tend to pull away for awhile and start something else. Kind of give the mind a break. One of those is the wheels and rods. So what better to start into than the tender. I went and purchased a cabinet grade 3/4 sheet of plywood. Drew up the plans and figured out the piece.s I was able to cut 95 percent of it out of the sheet the other 5 was scrap I had. I think it is heavier than the engine which is a good thing since the motor will be inside it along with air tank and two batteries.



I am using 4" pvc pipe for the corners. The tender will be wrapped in fiberglass and body putty with a final coat of gelcoat just as the boiler.






In case your wondering, Yes my fat butt fits just fine on the seat, I tested it.



Country: | Posts: 321 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 02/22/2017 :  08:24:38 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
. . . Looks strong enough to hold you. Holy Smokes there's a lota' bracing in there.


Country: USA | Posts: 3647 Go to Top of Page
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