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 HO scale rolling stock by Bill Gill
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Author Previous Topic: Lehigh Valley X58 Boxcar Topic Next Topic: Tichy 120 ton Crane and Boom car build
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quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/09/2017 :  1:31:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That sure is great work Bill, on a era of mid century rolling stock'..NICE'..


Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4524 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 01/09/2017 :  1:36:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bernd, Thanks. I like rolling stock from that time frame too and the 1/2 door just adds a bit of difference to a string of boxcars.

jbvb, The New England Rail Services 1/2 door kit was made to specifically fit over one panel on the Accurail 8 panel "outside braced" (single sheathed) box cars with wooden doors. Those cars can have either wooden ends (4000 and 4100 series) or steel ends (4200 and 4300 series), but not those with steel doors (4400 and 4500 series). Accurail also has 6 panel "outside braced" (single sheathed boxcars) in its 7000 series, but this 1/2 door won't line up as it should on those cars because the panels are a different width than the 8 panel cars.
I have seen models of single sheathed boxcars with 1 and 1/2 steel doors, but as far as I know NERS only makes a wooden 1/2 door kit.
Also look at comments below to Frank.

Frank, good question! The Accurail double sheathed cars are in the 4600 series. I have one of those and its wooden doors are exactly the same as the outside braced car door seen above. But the little add on door stops and lower door support that come with the 1/2 door kit look slightly different than those same details molded onto the double sheathed car.
Also, I guess, since you can't see where the interior braces are on double sheathed cars, you could add the same 1/2 door kit to the double sheathed cars with wooden doors. At least a quick inspection looks like there's no reason why the kit wouldn't fit just as well as on an "outside braced' car.

Greg, You are too kind. My knowledge base is like Lake Eire - wide, but shallow :)



Country: USA | Posts: 1638 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 01/09/2017 :  1:48:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Ted. My railroad is tiny and trains are very short, so a little mix in the types of cars goes a long way.


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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/10/2017 :  10:48:17 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Gill

My railroad is tiny and trains are very short, so a little mix in the types of cars goes a long way.



Your railroad is "tiny" check out mine. I've added the last building and might modify a building or two to get more buildings in there. I went to Proto Rails 2017 in Cocoa Beach, FL over the weekend and one of the clinicians had a great idea. He used pictures of buildings between the back building flats to create more depth to the scene.

Here's mine, all 12' of it. A 4 car freight is a long train, that's why I shuttle cars around. There's always the chance I'll tunnel through the wall into the garage. "The Empire Strikes Back".






Edited by - Frank Palmer on 01/10/2017 10:52:27 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 3775 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 01/10/2017 :  11:38:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Frank,Yeah, 4 cars is a long train here too. How deep is your layout?

I saw a neat backdrop (hunting for the source to send you a link). The backdrop was a photo of scenery and model buildings instead of prototype structures. Everything blended together very nicely and the effect was really convincing. It was very hard to tell where 3D became 2D and everything looked believably real.



Country: USA | Posts: 1638 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/10/2017 :  7:17:52 PM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to the link. The main part is 18" deep but it flairs out on the ends, 3" on the left and 6" on the right. I had to leave room for my wall mounted TV on the left and a door is on the right. My workshop is only 12' x 7'.


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quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/10/2017 :  9:14:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill & Frank, I would be interested in that link as well'..


Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4524 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 01/10/2017 :  9:19:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ted, haven't found it yet, but am looking. Anybody else see a similar backdrop?

Frank, Total overall area of my layout sounds a little bigger than yours, the C&VRR is 20 sq ft, but yours is a lot longer.



Edited by - Bill Gill on 01/10/2017 9:23:26 PM

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Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/11/2017 :  09:29:35 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bill don't fell inadequate, size doesn't matter it's how it operates, well looks count too.


Country: USA | Posts: 3775 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 01/11/2017 :  09:59:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Frank, I sure set that up for you
Frank & Ted, still haven't found the original link I saw on photographing structure models for backdrops, but here's a recent, somewhat similar link to the same general idea:
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/259687/2917405.aspx#2917405.
Still hunting for the original link...



Country: USA | Posts: 1638 Go to Top of Page

Frank Palmer
Fireman



Posted - 01/12/2017 :  10:57:47 AM  Show Profile  Visit Frank Palmer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bill, apparently I am one of a handful of people that haven't figured this out till now. I started yesterday by cutting the picture off a Walther's Cornerstone box.


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CavalryTrooper25
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  1:58:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Gill

NP2626, puns not required :) Your solder solution is one that others also have had success with, along with buckshot and similar weights. I have read of some cases where over time people have had problems with lead shot corroding or otherwise reacting with the glue used (water based) that caused problems. I tend to use just the steel weights that come with a kit, or if nothing is supplied, cutting one from discarded rolling stock. My layout is tiny, the trains are very short and slow. So far haven't had problems running heavier and lighter cars mixed together. Occasionally a train might be put together with the lighter cars at the rear, but not that often.



Try sheet lead.

I use an old X-acto blade to score the lead, then using either the same blade, or a heavier box cutter type knife, to cut the lead into strips the width, and length I want. When you score the lead, mark one, or two 32nds short, to allow for expansion.

Once the strip is cut out, I peen the edges with the flat face of a small steel hammer, to smooth the rough edges from cutting, and round the corners to limit sharp points. Once all the edges are smoothed, the strip will now be lightly warped. Lay it flat, on a hard surface, and using a rubber mallet, tap it flat. (this is where you may get some expansion, for which you have already compensated.

Now, test fit your strip on whatever car you have it planned for. You may need to do some minor additional peening, or flattening, but once it fits. I use either Walther's Goo, or a silicon sealing glue (like for bathtubs). I then add weights, or use C-clamps to ensure the lead strip weight remains flat during glue curing.

Paint as desired after a few days to ensure complete curing, add the under frame, and you can probably run this flat, gondola, or hopper empty, as it is plenty heavy all on it's own.

Horse




Edited by - CavalryTrooper25 on 03/22/2017 10:04:28 AM

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CavalryTrooper25
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  2:58:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Gill

Thanks, Pete, the green car has a long way to go yet. First got to get some "gold" decals, then weather the car (and straighten that bent brake staff).



I wouldn't get to worried about the brake bar. They did get bent, and so long as the brakes applied when the wheel was turned, why waste maintenance men's time fixing what aint really broke.

Horse




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CavalryTrooper25
Engine Wiper

Posted - 03/20/2017 :  3:09:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Gill

Modeling still continues in fits and starts, but here are a few updates. The MDC 36 ft boxcar above is progressing slowly. After brushing on several washes of thin colors to the sides I stopped to consider adding a lumber door to the A end of the car. But that would mean stripping paint that was looking pretty good so far, so decided not to add a door to this car.

Hereís a side view after about eight thin washes of coloring. The last wash turned out a little shiny, so will have to flatten it out again when done. A couple Jack Delano photos, including the one for the roof above on page 5, served as reference for the colors.



One of my favorite things is using stuff on hand in new ways. While prototypical accuracy is paramount on projects for the NEB&W, I am not a stickler for prototype fidelity for my freelanced C&VRR. Here is the beginning of a second MDC 36 ft boxcar conversion. This one uses one of the older Old Time kits. It came with separate doors and their tracks and an attached roof. The Tichy doors and tracks will be shortened to fit.



Here is one of the photos from the NEB&W collection used as reference.



The green fishbelly sides are from an old Mantua well flatcar of some kind. The stake pockets were carved off and all details sanded and scraped off to thin the sides down to just a hair thinner than the sides of the boxcar. The MDC boxcar shell fit just about perfectly over the raised part of the well. Rivets yet to be added. The ends of the flatcar were also cut off and Iím still looking for suitable replacements.



The rest of the Athearn 40ft underfame used on the other MDC boxcar above will be used for the bolsters and couple pockets for this car.


The trucks for this car came from an MDC Old Time tank car kit that is another project progressing slowly (very slowly right now).

After all that introduction, the main reason for introducing this second shorty boxcar is to show the lumber door added to the B end. The C&V serves several lumberyards (only one is modeled on the layout) and lumber doors were pretty common on boxcars then. A bit of research showed that the doors were anything but standard size or design. Hereís the one selected to use as a guide.



Hereís my simplified version of it. The door and guides are an ice hatch from an old MDC reefer kit that I converted to a milk car. The bottom guide was thinned a little and Tichy NB&Ws were added along the top track to more closely approximate the look of the original. The boards on the lumber door match the siding on the boxcar, so it all looks like it goes together. All the siding got grained and scratched to impart age to the car.




I have a bunch of these old Mantua "coil" cars. Couldn't decide what to do with. Now, I have a new project!

Thanks Bill!!!

Horse




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Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 03/20/2017 :  8:20:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Horse, Thanks for the info on that Mantua coil car. Now I know what I started with. Post photos of your cars when done.


Country: USA | Posts: 1638 Go to Top of Page
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