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Author Previous Topic: Projects in Progress on the Southern Central RR Topic Next Topic: The freelance California Railway & Navigation Co
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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/17/2017 :  9:45:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
AIN'T HAPPENIN'!!

I was flabbergasted at how much SPACE a switchback over the mountain idea was consuming!!

Didn't take long at all and I saw I was barking up the wrong operational tree.

So, that's that.

Bottom line is that I'll have more operational variety staying with my current track plan and theme, anyway, but I needed to see the proof on paper.

All fer this 'un!

Andre



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CavalryTrooper25
Crew Chief

Posted - 12/20/2017 :  2:42:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deemery

Another thing to consider is filling in a trestle bridge. Often the railroad would construct a wood trestle, and then use waste from projects like a tunnel to fill in around the trestle. A good excuse to run old ballast hoppers/flatcars/gondolas from the tunnel site (with a steam shovel to fill them.)

dave



Dave is correct on that. I have pics (somewhere) of both the PRR, and the P&R (Reading RR) doing precisely that.

The PRR did it along both the Susquehanna river from Harrisburg, PA to Port Deposit, MD, and the Enola Low Grade branch from south of Columbia, PA along the Susquehanna to Safe Harbor, PA, then turning east toward Atglen, PA. They would build a temporary trestle over the gap, lay in a piece of pipe to carry the water, or traffic, then begin to dump the fill off the trestle. Makes a mess, at first, but eventually you bring the fill level up to the trestle level. Since you cut slight depressions leading down to the trestle level, you will have to raise the ROW above the level of the trestle, then fill in, and grade to level, so the trestle no longer carries any weight, so that as the wood rots, you don't have sinkholes.

There is a series of pictures of this having been done along the Susquehanna river, when the Port Deposit branch was built, displayed in a small local private museum. A few years later, when the Enola Low Grade branch was built, they had to raise the level of the Port Deposit, because of the dam's being built, thus creating artificial lakes behind the dams.

Horse




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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/21/2017 :  11:18:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Slight change of topic:

Does anyone know what kind of lint-free/frazzle-free sewing thread MDC/Roundhouse used in their truss rod "Old Timer" car kits? I really like working with that stuff and my stash has just been depleted.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Andre



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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/23/2017 :  5:39:36 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, my 10 day vacation started today. I don't have to go back to work until next year!

Today I've been piddling off/on out in my Hobby Shack. Also went to Wally World to see if I could snag some blue LED Christmas light strings for night lighting the upcoming layout. No such at Wally World.

My work bench efforts are still aimed at making progress on a rolling stock fleet. Going to be slower going than I hoped for. Maybe I would have been better off time wise to go with kits!!

I already foresee there will likely be a need for a non-rolling stock project or two alongside the rolling stock so I can take a break from the systematic reworking of train set cars I'm currently involved in.

I may tinker with my photo software and see what I can do for a little print-out depot for Alpine City or some other diversion. We shall see!

Anyway, as of a few minutes ago, here's what my workbench looks like:



On the left are cars that are nearing being ready for paint. (Need to remove lettering/etc.)

On the work pad are "in process" cars, in this case a pair of Bachmann 34 footers. I have another Bachmann 34' boxcar on the way (got it cheap!), which brings the current total of Bachmann 34 footers up to ten. I have about 20 or so AHM/Pocher 34 footers... but I'm not too keen on converting all those given their unique roofs and roof walks.

Anyway... that's it fer now!

Andre



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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 12/23/2017 :  8:20:32 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Andre,

Impressive progress.

Your goal could be to create a small fleet of rolling stock for operations and then slow down with kits and the occasional scratchbuild. As for the AHM cars, perhaps put them away for now and decide down the road what to do.

In any case, you sound like you’re having a lot of fun. There’s so much one can learn and so many options.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3764 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/23/2017 :  9:35:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi 'ya Mike!

I'm feeling a bit "driven" to get at least a couple dozen cars ready for paint. Knowing my past modeling history, feeling "driven" isn't really a good thing, but I tend to do that to myself. There's not much way I can speed up the process on the Bachmann conversions. Aside from the overall shape and basic cast-on details, there's not much else I'm okay with so quite a bit ends up getting replaced, modified, and/or added. Ah well, it is what it is. The upside is that for the price of ONE craftsman kit and trucks/couplers, I can have about 3-4 Bachmann conversions. Hard to ignore that when at a ground zero level in regards to a fleet of rolling stock.

Forgot to mention those of you here that I placed an order with Cloverhouse for some of their black filament line (.011") and 5 or 6 dry transfers for 1880's era reefers and a burnishing tool set for the transfers. I'm out of truss rod string, so I won't be able to actually finish any conversions until I receive that order. However, there'll be 100' of truss line on that spool that's on the way... so that ought to last me a spell!

Right now I've got a custard pie in the oven for tomorrow's visit from the daughter, grand daughter and "him" (son-in-law!).

After that I intend to be out in my room for a bit more before bedtime beckons.

All fer this 'un!

Andre



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CavalryTrooper25
Crew Chief

Posted - 12/26/2017 :  12:44:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by OK Hogger

Slight change of topic:

Does anyone know what kind of lint-free/frazzle-free sewing thread MDC/Roundhouse used in their truss rod "Old Timer" car kits? I really like working with that stuff and my stash has just been depleted.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Andre



Andre;

I can't give you specifics, but it is a 100% synthetic thread.

I use similar, but larger diameter thread in saddle repairs, and other leather/canvas repair work.

If you can go to a good sewing, or crafts store, and ask for a synthetic thread that does not have the "frazzle", that is probably the best option. Another option is to go to a fishing store, and get the really fine plastic fishing line.

I am sure others will have other great ideas as well.

Horse




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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/26/2017 :  1:47:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi 'Ya Horse!

Thanks for that input. If the fishing line I have on order doesn't pan out... I will follow up on you advice on the string.



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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/28/2017 :  8:03:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So off and on today I've been out in my Hobby Shack making progress on rolling stock. I had finished up a couple of Bachmann boxcars yesterday, and decided I was going to take a break from converting the train set cars... so got out my Central Valley kit to work on it. After about an hour, I cane to this conclusion: "This is going to take quite a while... I could be making better use of my time converting train set cars!"

So, the CV kit got shoved aside and out came the Bachmann stuff. Over the course of the day:

* Got 3 Bachmann bobber cabeese ready to paint, or "??. (See below!)

* Got two more Bachmann 34' boxcars ready for paint.

About those bobbers: I've re-wheeled them and installed small head Kadee couplers. However, got a bit of a dilemma: The plastic handrails are really clunky. Fastest approach would be to overlook it and red-do them later one at a time. BUT... it is SO much better to make handrails BEFORE paint/decals/weathering. Decisions, decisions... again!

All fer now.

Andre



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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 12/30/2017 :  1:56:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So here's a pic of the fleet as of a few minutes ago. All of these are re-wheeled, and have the small couplers installed. (Modfied as needed, such as the passenger cars.)

All of the boxcars and most of the flat cars have been reworked and are essentially ready to have any printed lettering removed (sanded or solvent) and thus ready for paint.

Seeing as I need to now make a decision as to what to use for beams/queenposts/brake valves, I will likely turn my attention to flat cars and decide whether to shorten most of them, or what. Also, I need to make a decision on the hand railings on the cabeese and passenger cars. I'm leaning toward replacement before painting and not later.

Still lots to do before I can actually start a layout! (I want to at least have a basic car fleet and engines to use once the track starts going down.)




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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/01/2018 :  10:10:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Converting the flatcars/gons is gonna' suck.

Their problems are many: Both the Bachmann and AHM/Pocher's sit WAY too high, I think they're too long (to suit me), but the worst part is: The Bachmann versions are GLUED together.

In this case, the AHM/Pocher's are better for modding.

There ain't no easy way, here fella's!

I think I need prayer.

Andre



Edited by - OK Hogger on 01/01/2018 10:10:57 AM

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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 01/01/2018 :  10:35:01 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Andre,

Flat cars in the 1880’s ranged between 28’ and 34’ in length. I build several flatcars a couple of decades ago that were 30’ in length. If I recall correctly they were based on a V&T prototype.

Not to get on the scratchbuilding topic again, but sometimes it is easier to do that than to modify rtr cars.

By the way, those early cars seem to set too high, I think because of their small size. Let your coupler height gauge be your guide.

Do you have a particular railroad or railroads in mind in your modeling? I can check my 1888 equipment register to see what lengths their flatcars were.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3764 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/01/2018 :  11:26:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Mike!

I really appreciate your input. Thanks.

Let's get to it...

Lengths: At this point, the cut-downs are within the 28-30' range due to the wood deck and side pockets that determine where the cuts can be made in order to retain symmetry. I can leave a few the full 34' length for variety, but I want the bulk of the flat/gon fleet to be shorter than 34'. It's a personal thing, but I like shorter cars. (More cars per given train length!)

Scratchbuilding: Maybe it would be faster, but I still can't help but feel I'm saving time by using existing castings/etc. I may be wrong, we'll know more about the time element after I get this first batch ready for paint.

Height: I'll measure a "box stock" car once I'm back out in my Hobby Shack, but offhand I'd say it's over 1.5 scale feet from the centerline of the OEM coupler to the deck. Huge difference on account of the thickness of the body casting, plastic pop-in (or glued if a Bachmann) frame, and the weight that's sandwiched between the two. The end result is a car that has an excessive amount of thickness between the coupler box (draft gear) and deck height. Maybe I can take a pic to illustrate.

Prototypes: I don't really have prototype railroads in mind for these conversions. I just want them to look plausible. I'm plenty fine with the lengths that end up after the needed cuttings are performed. FWIW, the Bachmann flat and the AHM/Pocher flats are two different flats in regards to side stake spacing/etc. Thus, between the two brands, they end up being different lengthss. I'm fine with that, too, for I want variety among the rolling stock. Later, when I start building craftsman kits, I will likely chose to be more particular about representing some prototypes, based on the kit itself.

All fer now!

Andre



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OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 01/01/2018 :  12:01:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here's a couple of (poor quality) photos to try to illustrate some of the things we discussed in the previous post.

Here's a look at the excessive height of the train set flat cars "as is"...



Note the excessive thickness between the coupler center line and the deck of the flatcar. In fact, there's a huge gap between the top of the draft gear and the bottom of the end sill!

And here's a pic to illustrate a cut down and lowered in-process AHM/Pocher car. It still rides high off the trucks (as it should), but nowhere near as high as the OEM version.



All fer now!

Andre



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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 01/01/2018 :  1:56:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Andre,

I see what you mean. I’ve never looked closely enough to see the thickness of the deck. Yours is a big improvement.

Like you I try to build the shorter cars to set the timeframe.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3764 Go to Top of Page
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