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Author Previous Topic: Rail Scale Miniatures Whispering Falls arrives Topic Next Topic: Carolina Custom Kits background kit Dardens 1
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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 10/12/2015 :  12:08:20 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very nice job in building, painting, and weathering. I like the variety of roof styles.

It will be interesting to see the scene develop in the direction you plan to go with the FSM kits.

Mike



_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 5101 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/12/2015 :  12:14:33 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve that is coming along just fine. Nice job.

Jerry

"And in the end, itís not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 11405 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 10/12/2015 :  10:24:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. I'm going to try to get to detailing the rest of the diorama tonight. I'll post more pictures as I progress.

-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/13/2015 :  07:52:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve,

I like the way you have colored the buildings in this kit. I also think that the process you use to drybrush the windows and trim is perfect, and something I will attempt in the future. The combination of these two factions makes for an eye-appealing build.
One thing I would like to add is that I have been using Brian Nolan's shingle stain on some of my roofs and it really enhances the brownish,
underlying texture before the final drybrushing of the white, to make it "pop" more.
Great overall build so far. I plan on keeping attuned to your build to see how you place your FSM Emporium Seafood with the rest of these structures.

Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 4079 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 10/13/2015 :  08:30:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm not familiar with Brian's shingle technique. Do you have a link I could check out?

Thanks
-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

KKarns
Engine Wiper

Posted - 10/13/2015 :  5:39:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
.


Edited by - KKarns on 10/14/2015 3:45:53 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 281 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/13/2015 :  7:55:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveCuster

I'm not familiar with Brian's shingle technique. Do you have a link I could check out?

Thanks
-Steve



After searching again and not coming up with any link for you, I did find where I saved the information on my computer for reference. I made up some of this stain. Although I didn't have all the floquil paints that Brian used, I had to substitute some to achieve a similar stain. I used it on some of the same cedar shingles and liked how it looked. To me it was better than just A&I stain. The following is Brian's own words:
Brian Nolan - Cedar Shingles
These shingles are available from Sierra Scale Models. Not to be confused with Sierra West. They can be ordered from the web site...Sierra Scale Models.

You can cut the shingles from Dave's method if you like. I got the hang of cutting them and went off on my own. I'm sure you will do the same. I was tring to achieve a weathered old uneven look but, be careful and keep it neat.

It is absolutely important to use a good water resistant carpenters wood glue..the yellow stuff. This because you are going to be getting them fairly wet. Do Not apply any liquid for at least 12 hours. Let the glue dry throughly before proceeding any further

Assuming that you have applied the shingles,it is time to really add character to them.

1) Use a #11 blade in a holder and slice through a good potion of the individual shingles. Break off some shingle edges and make seperations between some. Now, Take a small wire brush and start sweeping downward on the shingles. This adds some good deep grain to them. Now, I bet your glad that you used a good glue.

2) Apply 1 or 2 washings of Alcohol / India Ink Stain ( 2 tspn's of ink to 1 pint of plain rubbing alcohol. This application darkens them but, it will lighten as the mixture drys.

3) The shingle stain is almost exactly like Bretts from the RRC. to a 1 oz. bottle fill 1/2 with Floquil Thinner then add Floquil Grime, Roof Brown, Grimy Black in even amounts until the bottle is just about full. I added a touch of Rail brown for a little touch of red ( red cedar). Experiment with some other colors. My method and color choice is certainly not cast in stone

3) Apply the stain randomely with a round brush but, keep the stain flowing downward. Don't saturate the roof. You want to build the color up in layers. Let this dry and see what you think. You can always go back and darken it with more stain or Ink/alcohol. When you have achieved the color desired, let it dry overnight before the final dry brushing.

4)For dry brushing you can use white, gray, earth and concrete. I used Poly-S but, many of our people use the craft paints with excellent results. I like to dry brush with several lighter colors than the base roof stain color.

Mick Greenburg, recommended that you cut CN Grey cut with Floquil Thinner 50/50. To obtain DRIFTWOOD.

Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 4079 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 10/13/2015 :  9:09:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Rich. I'm going to try that. The only challenge is I'm running low on some of my floquil paints including roof brown. I always thought Brian's roofs (rooves?) looked fantastic. Thanks for taking time to type that up.

-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/13/2015 :  10:21:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve,

Remember (#3) above, you can switch some paints for others. I thought roof brown would be kind of dark, so I used some Southern Rail Car Brown instead. Try it on samples first before you try it on your model.
Also, I would like to add that if anyone is upset that I added Brian Nolan's shingle stain recipe to this thread, I think Brian would be happy that we are using his expertise to finish our models, after all he taught us all how to do it way back then! And sharing is what this hobby is all about.

Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 4079 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 11/01/2015 :  07:39:46 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think I've completed the diorama as far as I can until I integrate it into my layout. I still have a lot of detailing to do and the water won't get poured until the rest of the water front is finished. Yesterday I cut the MDF base for the other half and I primed all the castings for emporium seafood.

I've thoroughly enjoyed building these couple Sierra West kits. It's interesting building a newer kit first, then an older one back to back and seeing how some of the techniques and processes have changed.

The worst part about this kit was the dry transfers. I guess they just don't hold up well
over time. They were probably great when the kit was new but after 15+ years I had a hard time get them to transfer properly. My only other experience with dry transfer signs was with the FSM Rock Bunker. I bought it from Penn Valley Hobbies in Lansdale, PA. I think that kit was on the shelf in the store for 25 years. The kit came with some dry transfers representing graffiti and the company logo. They were super tough to get to work properly.





















Thanks for checking out my thread.
-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

ELK RIVER RR
Fireman



Posted - 11/01/2015 :  08:18:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Steve are you far enough to show where that great model is going to go when finished. Nice work on what you have done so far, keep sending pictures. Tom


Country: USA | Posts: 3009 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 11/01/2015 :  08:52:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Tom
This afternoon I'm planning on dropping it in place on the the railroad. I need to build the bench work up to accommodate the base first but that shouldn't take long. Right now it's sitting on my second workbench just waiting for my dogs tail to smash it to pieces so I'm anxious to get it out of my workshop.

-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/01/2015 :  09:10:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve, I second what Tom said, nice work so far.
I noticed the outside woodwork on your structures has weathered from salts and sea, so why not signage too? I think the signs would look out of sorts with the rest of the structure, being bold, crisp lettering. More pictures please.
Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 4079 Go to Top of Page

SteveCuster
Section Hand

Posted - 11/01/2015 :  5:22:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys. Are you referring to the advertisements or the business signage?

I temporarily installed the kit on the layout and took a few pictures so you can get an idea the direction I plan on taking it. Keep in mind I'm only 2 years into construction of the layout so its still has a long ways to go. I found a before picture of how the layout room looked when I bought the house 2 years ago. I still need to install a few lights outside the layout so it's a little dark in the front.

























This is a blurry picture of what the room looked like before.

-Steve



Country: USA | Posts: 90 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/01/2015 :  5:50:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Steve,

I was referring to the business signage, now after looking back, perhaps you meant them to look the way they are. I am in "awe" at your space and huge layout you are planning. I wish I had the room for such a huge display. Very nice when you get it completed.

Rich



Country: USA | Posts: 4079 Go to Top of Page
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