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 New York Mill - Modeled in Balsa Foam
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Author Previous Topic: Need Help Topic Next Topic: Hillside Buildings
Page: of 31

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/14/2016 :  2:19:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The hillside base with the start of a shallow cave along with the creek bed one layer below. (By handle tip of yellow putty knife.) The creek will empty out into a low area and spread out around a few sandbars and rocks. on the low side of the mill. I may have to go with a low trestle along the mill side opposite of the creek. The talus slope is also seen in it's infancy.





-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 07/14/2016 :  5:55:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris I'm still here. Learning to see how the lay of land is in your part of the country!


Country: USA | Posts: 9514 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/20/2016 :  5:10:32 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brief update:
Still gluing down 1 inch thick insulation foam slabs. In the process I've discovered that the diorama would look a whole lot better with the concentrate building behind the mill structure. I also need to put something on top of the mountain which is across the creek.

I can cut down the diorama base size if I want, which is one reason I use foam as a base without any wood as it's easy to cut the diorama base to size. Or, and what I'm really thinking of doing, I can cobble together the concentration house, which is about 8.5 x 5.5 inches footprint. The unique thing about the concentration house is that it also has a funky angled short wall like the mill. I can construct a quick mine for the top of the mountain. I've discovered that the 'Samantha Morgan Mining Co.' from Pat Harriman's book "Early Wood Frame and Stone Structures" will fit with a track on the top of the mountain.

I think I can put these two structures together in a fairly short time window.

The mountain side is about one actual foot taller than the plain which the mill sits on.

Any input? For those interested, a few pictures (which one can zoom in for better views) and site plan of the mill can be viewed here:
http://gilpintram.com/newyorkmill.html

TIA


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/21/2016 :  11:12:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brief update:
I've been considering the size of the diorama and have to either cut it down in size or add some additional structures as noted in my last post. I didn't like either option quite frankly. So I'm now considering doing a rock wall foundation footprint where the concentration shed will reside. I can then finish off the area to make it look like the shed is just being constructed, or more likely, that the structure has been removed. This will allow me to complete the lower part of the diorama and then add the concentration shed at a later date.

As far as the mine on the top of the hill, not sure how to prep the area with a footprint so that I can add the mine at a later time. I'm still considering a few options. I need to get a bit further along in the construction of the mountain side prior to making a final decision on this structure site.

That's the best compromise I can come up with. Any other ideas?

TIA


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 07/21/2016 :  12:03:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I like the choice of you can do the shed or leave the space blank for later.

I think as you do the rest it will all fall into place on whether to add or subtract the shed.



Country: USA | Posts: 9514 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/23/2016 :  12:53:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Slow progress... it is summer, right??

Couple of pictures to give a feel for some of the ground contours. Still need a few more layers of foam on the mountain.







-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 07/23/2016 1:12:50 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 09/20/2016 :  12:47:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I finally got to try Balsa Foam myself and Kris asked me to post my comments here so...
I bought the "Soft" type of Balsa Foam and found it easy to cut to size and carve. I really like this stuff. It's going to be a go to product for foundations and stone walls. Here's the carved trestle footings and mail tail race wall, plus an abutment;


This is what I've done on coloring so far.
These are the colors I've used;


Notice that I didn't use the "real" Gesso for the Art Supplies aisle. After the Gesso I washed the walls with A&I. Each of these next pictures I let the paint coat dry before taking the picture. Each color was put on with a haft wet brush, then diluted on the wall and dabbed with a paper towel to remove most of the paint. I did it this way instead of just mixing washes because of the way this medium absorbs paint. Let see if it works. The first color was the Sky Gray;

Then a darker grey.


Now on the left side you see a large wall and above it a small piece and then two other pieces. The two other pieces are plaster. These pieces will go together to form the Mills Race. As the Mill is older than the railroad I want these pieces to look right together but different for the newer trestle footings so I treated them different. After treating all walls with the Burnt umber the ones on the left also got darken with black;

What do you think do these match?

And then Yellow orchid


Now as I work on the approaches to the trestle I'll be watching to see how much these colors fade as they are absorbed into the foam.





It's Only Make Believe

Bob Harris

Edited by - railman28 on 09/20/2016 12:53:39 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 4371 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/20/2016 :  05:55:44 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great texture in the wall carving, really shows up in your coloring technique. I'm finding your coloring technique really interesting too. I'm interested in seeing the final results. Thanks for taking a moment to post your experience with the Balsa Foam. I'm pleased to see that others are trying out the Balsa Foam and are obtaining good looking results with their first experiences with the material.

I think that your coloring of the two different materials accomplished the goal of a subtle difference between the construction and age of the walls. Should turn into a good looking scene.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 09/20/2016 05:59:08 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

Guff
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/20/2016 :  12:35:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris,
You and Bob have sure brought Balsa Foam to the forefront. Both your carvings look great. Definitely put Balsa Foam on my "got to try" list.
Dave



Country: USA | Posts: 1151 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 09/20/2016 :  6:44:16 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Guff

Kris,
You and Bob have sure brought Balsa Foam to the forefront. Both your carvings look great. Definitely put Balsa Foam on my "got to try" list.
Dave



I agree. This has been an educational exchange. I'm also going to give it a try when the opportunity arises.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 2856 Go to Top of Page

quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/20/2016 :  7:25:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very good looking and nicely colored stone work Bob'. I bought some Balsa foam when Kris first started his NY Mill, but still haven't used it.
After seeing you painting technique, I will definitely use it on my next foundation'...But I'm going to use Guff's paint brush impression tool instead of carving'...The arthritis in my hands makes it tough for carving these days. I think the impression toll will work as well. We'll see'..



Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4957 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 09/20/2016 :  11:18:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob that sure turned out nice. Will be looking forward to you finishing this up.


Country: USA | Posts: 9514 Go to Top of Page

jeyjey
Engine Wiper



Posted - 09/21/2016 :  05:46:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm also itching to try out Guff's paintbrush impression tool on balsa foam.

In the meantime, here's another trestle abutment in balsa foam:



Cheers,
Jeff.


Modelling the D&RGW and C&S in HOn3.

Country: Ireland | Posts: 367 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/12/2017 :  2:46:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Updated referenced thread link for power connectors.http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40025

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/06/2017 :  6:30:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
HOn3 Hermosa Creek Bridge

I've had the Goldline Products HOn3 Hermosa Creek Bridge; kit #GL-100, in my kit stash since the mid-90's. Please note that comments made on the kit is for a kit made 20 years ago. Current kits may be somewhat different.

Since the kit comes packaged in a tube, I've posted a picture of the completed kit from the Goldline Products page at http://www.goldlineproducts.com
You can see the kit page at: http://www.goldlineproducts.com/HERMOSACREEKBRIDGE.htm



Review of Product
The HOn3 Howe Truss bridge comes packaged in a 10 inch by 1 1/2 dia inch tube.

The bridge model is a scale HO 47 foot length bridge designed to NMRA standards. The kit may be converted to a 2 foot or 2 1/2 foot bridge by centering the central stringers below the rails.

Instructions & Templates
The kit includes 4 pages of instructions. The instructions are printed on both sides of 2 pages, requiring the builder to flip page sides as needed. A third page includes building templates.

The scale templates include the following views:
A) Side
B) End
C) Deck Plan

The scale abutment template is on the last(4th) page the instructions.

The templates line drawings have crisp, clean drawings which are clearly printed.

The pre-cut wood components appear to fit correctly to the templates with the template lines just visible with the components in place.

The instructions include:
A) A brief overview and photo of the prototype bridge.
B) A list of additional required tools/materials. (Note: More than likely, anyone reading this already has everything on the list. Just remember to insert new knife blades into your handles prior to starting the project.)
C) An isometric drawing of the bridge.
D) Paint/Stain suggestions.
E) General assembly sequence.
F) Lots of construction tips at the appropriate build step(s).

I noted that the 'Additional Materials' list did not include a ruler with 1/32nd increments, which appears could be handy since the wood components wood size is measured to the 1/32nd.

As the pre-cut stripwood is color coded for size, I would liked to have a color-code size chart included in the instructions. The stripwood size and color coding are noted in the instructions as the wood size is required, but if one has prestained the wood the color coding coloring may be lost.

Kit Components
The kit comes with four(4) parts packages.
A) Bridge ties (cut from Pine).
B) Pre-cut color coded bridge components.
C) Abutment components.
D) Package of Grandt Line N-B-W's, two different sizes.

The dimensional wood is cut fuzz free and is color coded for size. Remembering that my kit was manufactured in the mid 90's, the wood appears to be Kappler or MidWestern.

A few of the pine bridge ties have some defects which will affect staining, but it should not be an issue during construction to hide the defect.

My original intent was to replace all of the wood components the with appropriate sized Kappler wood. By replacing the wood it would enable me to use longer strips of wood, making the graining and staining processes easier. I've decided to 'tough it out' and use the kit components however.


Kit Components


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 04/11/2017 4:27:15 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7076 Go to Top of Page
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