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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/30/2016 :  03:15:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the comments. I'm glad that everyone agrees that the flat plane looks better than a curved plane and the construction sequence is providing some value.

For coloring reference, the last picture posted is most representative of the actual coloring of the roofing material.

I have discovered that the water wheel house is my nemesis for this build. I'm fighting the need to redo the entire water wheel house structure (3rd build) as I incorrectly assembled the two end walls. The end walls should be reversed. In most structures this would not be that big of an issue. In this case, the entry for the water flue is wrong. I'm trying to decide if I can hide the error by constructing the diorama with the flue entering the water wheel house differently than the actual structure. I would need to modify how the structure is orientated in relationship to the creek running behind the mill.

As I noted earlier in the thread, this build has also become an exercise in hiding errors. Comments and suggestions are more than welcome.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 01/30/2016 03:22:46 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 01/30/2016 :  03:34:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I love that roof, and the whole project by the way.
The long rolls of tarpaper, with the subtle color variation inside each roll and between successive levels give a very nice feeling.

Having the model go through 200 people's handling is some kind of test for extreme durability. Good news the materials used passed the exam!



Country: France | Posts: 17613 Go to Top of Page

jeyjey
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/30/2016 :  1:47:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lovely roof, Kris!

Modelling the D&RGW and C&S in HOn3.

Country: Ireland | Posts: 365 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/30/2016 :  1:50:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK... back from the grocery store where a lot of mental energy was applied to the waterwheel house flume issue. Just so folks don't think I quickly came to this conclusion, I've known about the issue for about two weeks and have been mulling over various corrections since. I've decided to take the simple and easy way out of the issue. This is a 'sandbox' build after all, so lots of modeling compromises are expected.

-- THE FIX --
The existing component will be used. I will cut a flume entry hole above the windows and add a bit of framing extensions to the entry point. I'll have to live with the end windows being on the incorrect end. The existing hole will be patched over with a patch of some sort, or turned into a vent. I may even try to make it a window. But, the decision has been made to allow me to move forward with the build.

-- Use existing component.
-- Cut new entry hole on correct end.
-- Disguise incorrect flume entry hole.
-- Accept model with incorrectly placed windows... a modeler's license application has been applied for and approved...


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 01/30/2016 1:54:34 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/31/2016 :  7:16:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks to the folks who took the time to drop by to see what I've been up to and for the feedback.

Well, let's do another 'brief' update for Rich.

Color the roof fascia boards:
Materials:
A) HO Scale 2x6 (5 pc - 12 inch length) http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-12.htm
B) Prismacolor Marker - French Grey 50% #PM-159

1) Grain and polish the strip wood. I used #0000 steel wool to polish the wood.
2) Brush color the wood with Weather-It. Use Silverwood or a medium A-I wash if Weather-It is unavailable. I prefer Weather-It due to the 'grimy' weathering effect vs. the water weathering which Silverwood and A-I washes produce.
3) While the stripwood is still lightly damp, color the wood French Grey using the broad tip of the Prismacolor marker.
4) Put the wood aside to dry completely.

Color and seal the underside of the roof and bracing:
Materials:
A) Charcoal Pencil (General’s #557-6b Ex. Soft is what I used.)
B) Delta Ceramcoat Burnt Umber #02025
C) Painters Masking Tape 1" wide.

The underside of the roof is to be painted to help prevent future warping.
1) Color the roofing paper edges with a charcoal pencil. This is to achieve a shadow effect while coloring the cut paper edge. If you use a marker to color the edges, you will have weeping of the paper, simulating tar seams. I don't tar extends past the edge of the roof, thus the use of the charcoal pencil.
2) Apply a masking of painter's tape to the top of the sub-roof bracing. I wanted to keep the roof assembly under weight to prevent further warping as the paint dries. The masking will allow the roof to have weight applied while the paint dries without any sticking of the paint to the weight material.
3) Trim the painter's tape so that only the top surface of the bracing is masked. This will allow you to color the sides of the bracing while painting the sub-roof.
4) Apply a small piece of tape over the pilot holes for the stacks. This will prevent any paint for weeping onto the roof surface.
5) Paint the underside of the roof, the sides and ends of the the bracing the chosen color. I used Burnt Umber as this allowed me to paint the roof overhang a good color in case the underside of the eave is viewed. When painting, try to keep paint off of the roofing paper overhang to prevent any paint from weeping onto the roofing paper surface and discoloring the paper edge surfaces.
6) Remove the painter's tape and allow the roof to dry under weight.
7) Paint the top surface of the bracing and touch-up the bracing edges and ends as needed. Also, add a second coat of paint to the underside surface of the roof which will be exposed when the roof is mounted on the walls. Again, try to keep excess paint off of the underside of the roofing paper. The second layer of paint on the eave underside will hide any brush strokes. Color variances are OK, but brush strokes are not should someone decide to look at the eave underside. Allow this layer of paint to dry.

The following series of pictures show the sub-roof with bracing, masking of the bracing, the first layer of paint, and finally, the final layer of paint. Also note in the last picture of the painted sub-roof the colored fascia boards (2x6's) in the upper left corner of the picture. You can see how the colored wood fits well with the burnt umber coloring.









Add Fascia:
Materials:
A) Previously grained and weathered 2x6 stripwood (5-pc 12 inch length)
B) Prismacolor Marker
--a.) Sand #PM-70
--b.) French Grey 40% #PM-158 (optional)
--c.) Sepia #PM-62 (optional)

1) Add the fascia to the roof edge. Apply a thin film of yellow glue to one side of a scale 2x6.
2) Using a small drafting triangle or some other tool, guide and press the stripwood into place. The strip wood should be against the matte board edge and the the roofing paper seam. Make sure to extend the 2x6 ends past the corner of the matte board. This will allow you to butt the next fascia board against the first board to obtain a tight corner joint. Use a damp rag or other tool to remove any glue which may weep out of the seam onto the eave surface.
3) Remove excess fascia board ends with a cuticle cutter or flush nipper.
4) You will need to butt joint a few sides due to the stripwood length being too short. Make sure to touch-up the cut ends with a light A-I wash or Prismacolor marker, either Sepia or French Grey 40% prior to gluing into place.
5) Once all of the fascia is glued in place, use the broad end of the Prismacolor marker, Sand color, to color the exposed edge of the 2x6. Use the broad tip to color the wood edge.
6) Do not attach the roof to the walls at this time. Store the roof under weight if possible.



The roof stored under weight is not attached to the walls. The glass plate weight is approximately 7 lbs. This picture should resolve any fears that the foam is not sturdy enough to support the weight of our scale loco's and cars.

As always, comments on the good, bad and ugly are always welcome.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/05/2016 12:40:26 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/05/2016 :  12:38:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I want to thank all of those who dropped by to see what I've been up to over the past couple of postings. Unfortunately, just some pretty mundane modeling chores, but necessary to describe to make the thread as useful as possible.

Maybe I can pick-up the interest a bit over the next few days. I currently have over 15 pages of notes which I need to distill into something of value to post. I'll also include a few advanced modeling tricks for some of the newer folks as well as some thoughts on the modeling process.

So, let's get to it...

Clerestory
As this roof is very large and flat, it can be a bit boring to the eye. The addition of another vertical structure will assist in providing increased interest to the eye. Remember, roofs are often the viewers first impression of the model.

I don't know the history of the clerestory for this structure. I do know that it appears to be an interesting feature which was found on multiple Colorado mills at the turn of the century. A couple of views of the NY Mill with the clerestory can be found via the link in the initial post of this thread.

My original intent in the construction of the clerestory was to use a block of balsa foam and overlay with wood siding. The idea was to test how the wood would adhere to the foam using a yellow wood glue as an adhesive. My concern was the 'sandy' nature of the balsa foam and if the adhesive would work. The issue has been tested with a bit of wood attached to a side wall and has been found to be a very strong, able to withstand substantial handling. Thus, I have chosen to use a more traditional construction approach due to the cost factor of high density balsa foam block.

Materials:
A) Matboard: Cresent Mfg.# 948. Two sides colored; beige/white.
--a) 11x12 inches.
--b) 5x16 inches.
--c) 1x5 inches.
B) Tichy Train Group 6 Lite Windows #8026 (10-pc)
C) Campbell Corrugated Aluminum
--a) HO scale 12 ft wide #803 (2-pc)
--b) HO scale 4 ft wide #804 (24-pc)
D) 3-M #465 Adhesive Transfer Tape 1/2 inch wide.
E) Prismacolor Marker
--a) Sepia PM-62
--b) Dark Brown PM-88
F) Krylon Auto Primer, Grey- Spray Can

Clerestory walls:
1) Layout the clerestory walls and ends on the matboard. Make sure to allow for any dimensional differences between the plans and the model.
Notes: The clerestory ends will need to be cut at an angle to account for the roof angle. This angle will allow the long wall with the windows to sit vertical while maintaining a tight corner joint with the end walls.

When setting up the window wall length (up to the roof edges) allow for two thickness of the matboard. This is due to the necessity of gluing the long wall to the inside of the end walls.

Use the mounted 4x4 on the mill walls to assist in the layout by placing the two end pieces inside the 4x4's and then placing the long wall across the chute wall just inside the mounted 4x4. This will provide the proper long window wall length for the structure you are working on.

2) Cut out the sub walls from the matboard.
3) Verify the three walls fit together correctly and dimensions are correct.
4) Apply masking tape to both sides of the long wall. Use a drafting triangle or some other tool to press the tape edges together as close to the wall edges as possible. The tape is to help prevent damage to the matboard wall when window openings are cut.



5) Layout the window opening spacing on the long wall.
6) Drill small holes (1/8th inch bit) in each of the 4 corners of the window openings prior to cutting out the window. The holes will reduce the damage to the thin strips of matboard above and below the window openings.

Note: I used both a #17 and #18 blades in a punch cut to create the window openings. The cuts were made with the matboard wall on a cutting mat.
**WARNING** Be careful not to apply too much pressure on the knife blade as the blades will break.
7) Cut out the window openings and clean-up the corners of the openings with a small square needle file or riffler file. http://www.micromark.com/10-piece-riffler-file-set,6789.html





8) Apply a diluted white glue or thin ACC to the edges of the long wall. This will repair the matboard damaged during the creation of the widow openings. Also, repair any window openings as needed. Note that the glue application will attach the masking tape to the matboard. You will also find the long wall a bit more stiff once the glue dries.

While the wall edges are still damp, use a couple of drafting triangles or other tools to make sure the wall edges are straight. Push any window openings back into square as needed.

9) Allow the wall to dry under weight. Note that this technique of applying glue to the matboard edges is useful if you are constructing coach cars using matboard or other applications where thin strips of matboard are required.

Add the corrugated metal roofing to the long wall:
10) Attach the foil siding/roofing with the 3-M transfer tape. Burnish the tape firmly prior to removing the tape backing. This is due to the limited surface area of the wall.
11) Two strips of 1/2 inch wide foil will be required for the long wall. Apply the corrugated metal siding to the long wall starting from the middle of the long wall and working to the wall end. Apply the foil directly over the window openings. Make sure to align the foil edge with the bottom edge of the wall. When applying the foil, make sure to press firmly to attach the corrugated metal to the wall above and below the window openings.
12) Trim the end edges of the foil using a #18 blade and a punch cut. Do this on a cutting mat to reduce the chance of blade breakage and movement of the wall during the cut.
13) Remove the excess foil along the long edge. Use a new #11 blade and multiple light cuts to remove the ribbon of foil.
14) Remove the foil from the window openings using both #17 and #18 blades.







Well, we have reached a good point to retire for the evening. I'll continue soon with the creation of the clerestory side walls. This is were we will get into a bit of math.

As always, comments on the good, bad and ugly are always welcome.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/11/2016 6:52:49 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/08/2016 :  2:37:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Apply corrugated aluminum to the clerestory end walls:
1) Use a protractor http://www.micromark.com/angle-setter-and-protractor,7037.html or other angle device to determine the roof angle. This is necessary so that the corrugated siding angle can be determined to allow the siding to sit vertical on the roof when mounted to the walls.
2) Determine the cut angle for the base of the corrugated siding base (edge against the roof) by determining the difference in the roof angle for the 90 degree and then adding that difference to 90 degrees to determine the cutting angle of the corrugated siding base. For example:
--My roof angle was 86 degrees.
--90° minus 86° = 4°.
--Thus the cut angle of the corrugated metal siding base is 90°+4°=94°.
By applying the corrugated metal siding with a 94° angle to the roof, the siding will be vertical when mounted to the wall attached to the roof.
(Maybe Frederic Testard can jump in here and explain the math correctly to make this explanation clear. For those who do not know, Frederic is a mathematician and math teacher who has authored a couple of acclaimed math books.)
3) Layout the cutting guideline angles on the metal foil, Campbell's HO scale 12 ft wide #803 (2-pc). Make sure to have enough foil to cover the entire end wall sub-base. This is why the 12 foot wide foil was chosen.
4) Mark the foil with the appropriate wall lengths.
5) Make sure to test fit the foil to the wall to insure that the entire wall is covered and that the proper angle is cut at the base allowing the foil corrugations to be vertical when mounted against the sub-wall, and the sub-wall is sitting on the roof.
6) Cut the foil using a new blade #11 and multiple light strokes to prevent the foil from ripping. It helps to use a cutting mat under the foil to prevent the foil from moving. It's best to cut the foil to length and then to cut the offset angle to the foil base. Again, verify that the corrugations in the foil are vertical when the foil is sitting on the roof prior to making any cuts.
7) Apply the transfer tape to the sub-wall and trim as needed.
8) Mount the metal siding to the end sub-walls.
9) Trim the foil to match the sub-walls. Use a new razor blade and multiple light cuts on a cutting mat to avoid rips in the foil.
10) Test fit the clerestory ends on the roof to verify that the foil corrugations are vertical and admire your work.







-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 02/08/2016 :  3:25:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, your mill just keeps on looking better, with each new piece added!
Nice work cutting all those little clerestory window openings out so neatly by hand.

Greg Shinnie




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TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/08/2016 :  5:34:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris that really came out nice. Great job on cutting those windows out.

Jerry

"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Country: USA | Posts: 9210 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/08/2016 :  6:02:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Getting those angles right is important, Kris. I have one of those protractors and it made a couple tasks much easier.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 13683 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2016 :  6:46:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the input. I'm glad to know that someone out there is watching.

George; You are right, the Angle Setter/Protractor tool is really, really handy. I seem to find a use for it somewhere on every build, so I consider it a pretty 'stock' tool anymore.

To all... I've been going over and over how to explain the angle setting function for applying the siding to the clerestory end walls. My write-up is not very concise, and I'm concerned that it may confuse others. I've finally figured out a way to present the information in a better way. Much more concise and with two different ways to accomplish the task. PLEASE PM me if you are confused and need a concise explanation of the process. I'm not going to post it here as I'm afraid that I'd just add additional confusion within the thread, unless requested to do so.

So... let's get back to modeling...

Clerestory Roof:
For ease in layout and measurements, I'm using the thickness of the matboard. Make sure to verify your overhangs if your matboard is other than 1/16th inch thick.
1) Using the 5x16 inch matboard, layout the length of the roof on the matboard so that you have the long windowed wall length plus 4x the thickness of the matboard. This will allow for the two side wall thickness's. Remember that the long windowed wall goes between the two end walls. The additional overhang will provide about an 6" eave. There will be a 2 inch thick fascia board, leaving a scale 4 inch eave.
2) Using the 5x16 inch matboard, layout the width of the roof so that both roof angles (found on the top edge of the clerestory sides/end pieces) plus 2x the matboard thickness.
Note: Save the excess matboard which will be used for the stone office sub-roof.
3) Cut the 5x16 inch stock matboard to length.
4) Determine the chute side roof width using the clerestory end walls. Mark the roof width on the matboard stock, making sure the roof width is flush with the stone wall faces below.
5) Lay a scrap piece of 4x4 along the long edge of the roof stock. This will assist in the determination of location for the lowest guideline for the roofing panels.
6) Align a strip of 4 foot (Campbell #804) wide corrugated metal foil with the outer 4x4 edge. This will provide a 4" overhang. Mark the sub-roof using the foil width as a guide. Don't forget that a 2" thick fascia board will be mounted which will produce a 2" overhang.
7) Using a compass or divider, trap the width of the mat-board from the bottom edge to the first guideline. This width will account for the overlapping of the metal panels vertically.
8) Using the earlier determined bottom guideline, walk the dividers up each side of the sub-roof, leaving small punch holes. Using a ruler, connect the two rows of punch marks to produce roofing guidelines for the placement of the corrugated roofing panels.



9) Using a new #18 blade and a cutting mat, cut the scale 4 foot wide foil strip into roofing panels approximately 3 foot wide panels. Make sure the corrugations are vertical when making the cuts. You should end up with a pile of 4ft tall by 3ft wide roofing panels. Remember to use as little pressure as possible when cutting the stock foil ribbon to avoid damage to the roofing panel. A jig is not necessary for this cutting process as you will quickly determine the necessary 3ft length by eye. The minor random differences in the foil width makes for a better visual impact once the panels have been applied to the sub-roof. Remember to cut a few panels extra wide as these will be used as the panels on the ends and provide additional excess overhang. Plan on at least 2 extra wide panels per row of roofing panels on your roof.
10) Apply the 3-M #465 Adhesive Transfer Tape to only the current course/row you are working on, and possibly the one row above. This will help prevent your getting all wrapped-up in the transfer tape during the foil application process and keeps the adhesive fresh. Trim the tape even with the roof sub-base edges. Note that the transfer tape adhesive is transparent, so you will be able to see the panel guidelines through the adhesive. A nice bonus here is that the width of the transfer tape fits exactly with a single row of roofing panels in HO scale. The tape also comes in other widths which work well for "S" and "O" scales.





Hint: Problems picking up the thin metal foil strips/panels without bending them? Use a damp rag to lightly moisten your finger tip. Press the moist fingertip on the foil panel to lift the foil from a flat surface without bending the panel.
11) For the chute side of the roof, apply the bottom row of corrugated panel strips following the guidelines and allowing about 1/4 inch or more overhang on the sides. The overhang will be trimmed after the mounting of the fascia boards. When applying the corrugated panels, allow the panels to overlap the panel next to it by about 1/16 inch or about 2 corrugation ribs.
12) Apply the second row of panels following the guideline and allowing the panel to overlap the panel below by about 1/16 of an inch. Try to avoid having two rows of seams directly above one-another. If needed, to stagger the seams, cut a foil panel a bit thinner or wider if your freehand cutting was a bit too accurate. Also it's helpful to alternate ends for different rows of panels.
13) Continue adding rows of corrugated panels until the roof peak row is reached. Do Not add panels to the roof peak row as the peak will be roofed later. Remember too while adding the corrugated panels to start subsequent rows from opposite roof ends. This will assist in keeping the corrugated panels from lifting. The exception here would be if you want to show a roof exposed to a constant wind direction, like on a sea coast. In such an environment, the panels would tend to lift only from one side. This is a subtle, but effective technique, in helping to present the model in the desired setting.
14) Allow the roof to sit under weight for at least 12 hours.
15) Repeat the process for the long wall roof.
16) Test fit a window casting into each of the long window wall openings to verify that all openings are cut correctly. Adjust as needed. I find riffler files http://www.micromark.com/10-piece-riffler-file-set,6789.html more useful than needle files for this application due to the foil on one side of the matboard.

Stone office roof:
Materials:
A) Leftover Matboard: Cresent Mfg.# 948. Two sides colored; beige/white.
B) Campbell Corrugated Aluminum, HO scale 4 ft wide #804 (Panels cut in prior roofing step.)
C) Prismacolor Marker
-- a) Sepia PM-62
-- b) Dark Brown PM-88

While we have the roofing crew available, let's construct the stone office roof. As the stone office was formed from a block of balsa foam, there is a large surface area to attach the matboard sub-roof. Because of this, no bracing of the matboard will be required.

1) Using the saved piece of mat board from the cutting of the clerestory roof, layout the dimensions of the stone office block.
2) Add an additional scale foot to the door end wall dimension and an additional scale 6 inches (use a scrap of 6x6 to layout marks) along the side wall. This will provide a 8 inch eave on the three sides when the 2x6 inch fascia is mounted.
3) Draw the bottom roofing guideline mark a scale 3 foot from the bottom (side wall) edge of the matboard sub-roof. This will provide approximately 1 foot corrugated metal overhang to work with. This should leave 1 inch (actual) to work with.



4) Color the bottom side of the sub-roof with a Sepia Prismacolor marker.
5) Color the sub-roof edges with the sepia marker Try to keep the color from bleeding onto the top side of the sub-roof.
6) Color the top side of the sub-roof with the dark brown Prismacolor marker. Markers were chosen to color the sub-roof matboard to assist in limiting warping due to no bracing being applied.
7) Add the second roofing guideline by splitting the 1 inch into two 1/2 inch rows. This should make the transfer tape fit appropriately.
8) Apply the bottom course of transfer tape adhesive. Apply the tape using the 3 scale foot guideline and trim the excess tape prior to removing the tape backing.
9) Apply the metal foil panels allowing approximately 3/8th inch (actual) overhang on all edges.
10) Apply the transfer tape and corrugated foil panels using the 1/2 inch guidelines to the next two rows of roofing.
11) Set the roof aside under weight for at least 12 hours.
12) Use a small pounce wheel http://www.micromark.com/3-piece-pounce-wheel-set,6668.html and add nail holes to a the roofing.

The trick to the pounce wheel is pressure. Do NOT press down hard, as most users do. Use the same amount of pressure as when writing with a #2 pencil. To help you see the issues in the final product, I pressed down hard while adding nail holes to the clerestory roof while using a bit less, but still too much pressure, on the stone office roof. **You will be able to view the differences in the metal roofs in the finished products.** Compare these roofs to the waterwheel house roof. The weathering process will pronounce the excessive pressure issue. I use my pounce wheel freehand, but you may find a clear ruler is useful.
13) Add nail holes to all clerestory components and the stone office roof.



-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/13/2016 10:17:33 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 6957 Go to Top of Page

Pennman
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2016 :  7:12:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris........... Yet.... another "short" tutorial! You are an expert at describing your methods of mastercraftmanship. I save all of your posts to reread at a later time. If I read and absorb everything you've written, I don't get anything done myself.
This is not a bad approach on your part, so don't get me wrong. I model with a similar approach, seeing the finished project, then build backwards. It just eliminates any errors and everything goes well. So, keep on trucking
.
Rich



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quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2016 :  8:27:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Lot's of good information Kris'..That is one heck of roof'..NICE'..Looking good'..



Ted

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Ray Dunakin
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2016 :  12:46:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit Ray Dunakin's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tip about the angle-setter/protractor. I've been needing something like that.


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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/13/2016 :  07:21:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Rich and Ted, Thanks for the feedback. As always, it's much appreciated.

Ray, I suspect that you will consider the modeling funds spent on the Angle Setter tool well spent once you have lived with the tool for awhile.

Well, Let's get back to modeling...

Prime window castings and clerestory roof components:
Materials:
A) Rust-Oleum Light Grey Auto Primer (Spray Can) #2081
B) Tichy Train Group 6 Lite Window #8026 (10-pc) https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/c/ho_framed-windows/p/8026/Default.aspx
C) Campbell Corrugated Aluminum HO scale 4 ft wide #804 (2-pc)

Note that the choice of a Auto Primer here is important. We need something to etch and really adhere to the foil to form a base for the paints or pastels which will be used for coloring the foil. The auto primer is designed to etch the metal it's applied to. If applied properly in a light coat, the primer will not affect the detail of castings or the corrugations of the foil.

1) Clean the window castings with a liquid dish soap and water to remove mold release film. A soft toothbrush to help scrub the casting is also helpful. To be up front here, I often just plop the castings into a jar of clear ETOH and let them soak for a few days, sometimes over a week. I've never experienced any damage to the polystyrene castings when soaking for an extended time in ETOH. I also have never had an issue when painting castings which were just soaked in ETOH to remove the grease/mold release films. The castings used here actually sat in clear ETOH for over a week.
2) Tape the castings to a spray stick. (optional). I actually use paint stir sticks obtained from a home center and 1 inch wide painters tape to hold my objects for painting. I wrap a strip of painters tape at the top and very bottom of a stir stick to hold a piece of painters tape which is sticky side-up running the length of the stir stick. I find that by doing a wrap versus folding a long strip of tape over on it's self to stick the tape to the stir stick, that the tape is held in place more firmly.
3) Prime the castings with the Rust-Oleum Light Grey Auto Primer. Make sure to use this product in a very well ventilated room or outdoors. I always use the product outdoors and I try to wear a paper dusk mask. I also let the sprayed components dry outside for at least 8-10 hours as the enormous amount of fumes from this product will permeate the entire house.
4) Prime all of the clerestory components plus 2 strips of additional corrugated metal. The corrugated metal strips will be used as the roof capping material once it is colored.
5) Prime the stone office building roof.
6) Allow the primed components to 'cure' dry. You want a 'cure' dry vs. a dry to the touch as the application of the powered pastels is very abrasive and can easily lift the primer from the foil. I usually allow at least 48 hours or more drying time.



Paint wall and roof clerestory interiors:
Materials:
A) Delta Ceramcoat Asbestos (no longer produced) or FolkArt Acrylic Colors - Wrought Iron #925.

1) Using a 1 inch wide flat brush, apply a dark gray-black color to the back or inside of each clerestory component. Use to coats if needed to obtain a smooth even colored coating of color. Avoid getting paint on the underside of the foil which extends past the matboard sub-roofs.
2) Do not paint the underside of the stone office roof.
3) Set the components aside to dry.

Color the clerestory and office roof components:
Materials:
A) Diluted White Glue: 5:1:1-drop / water:glue:liquid dish soap
B) Prismacolor Marker French Grey 40% #PM-158
C) Rust-All weathering solution http://www.rustall.com/HomePage.html
-- a) Blackwash
-- b) Rust
D) HO Scale 2x6 (6 pc - 12 inch length) http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-ho-12.htm
E) Rembrandt Soft Pastels http://www.dickblick.com/products/schmincke-soft-pastels/
-- a) Carmine #318.3
-- b) Burnt Sienna #411.5 and #411.3
-- c) Raw Umber #408.7
-- d) Permanent Red Deep #371.5
F) Schmincke Soft Pastel
-- a) Permanent Red 3 Deep D #044D
-- b) Permanent Red 1 Pale B #042B
-- c) English Red H #022H
-- d) Manganese Violet B #052B
-- e) Orange Light D #010D
-- f) Olive Green 2 B #086B (optional)

1) Using a fine file or sandpaper, powder some soft pastel colors to produce a deep brown-red base. Powder small highlights of manganese violet and deep orange onto the siding.
2) Apply diluted white glue using a 1/4 inch wide flat white bristle brush. http://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-academic-bristle-brushes/ Use a stippling stroke to get the powered pastel wet, then use 'light pressure' strokes from the top down to spread the pastels once the pastels are mixed and spreading easily. Make sure to use light pressure brush strokes in a vertical up/down motion. The idea here is to get coloring into all areas of the corrugated panels and seams. **Do not** brush horizontally or across the corrugations. You want to follow the natural water flow patterns of the structure in nature. Note that you will need to use very light pressure strokes when brushing. Too much pressure or overly repeated strokes will result in the primer being lifted from the foil due to the abrasive properties of the powdered pastels.
3) Once the panels have a base coloring, brush the siding using only vertical strokes, top to bottom.. This is to apply more pastel coloring at the bottom of the exposed end of the metal panels.
4) Note that as the glue dries, the ability to control the coloring will change with various brush strokes. Experiment a bit by rotating the brush or using the brush sides in the top to bottom strokes. Apply the base coloring in a fairly uniform color across the entire component being colored.



The photos above shows the base coloring. Note how it is a close match to the waterwheel house roof on the right. Note also that the next step will further add the violet hues, so this roof may appear to be a bit too bright in the red hues.

5) With the siding still damp, apply additional violet and light orange or red accents. Use the damp brush and light pressure strokes to blend and streak the accent coloring.





6) Set the colored components aside to cure dry. You want to make sure that the white glue has enough time to fully dry. Stand the components on their edges so that the siding is vertical. This is to mimic water flows which will be accomplished by the small amount of moisture on the siding and flowing down the surface, drawing a small amount pastel coloring with it.
7) Apply the deep blue 'Blackwash' ink wash with the siding standing vertical upside down. This is to allow the wash to get into the seams between the metal foil panels and add additional shadow to the overlapping panels. Allow the siding to dry standing vertical, but upside down.
8) Make sure to also treat the two foil strips with the above coloring steps. The strips will become the roof cap. You will want the roof cap to blend with the rest of the roof, thus the reason to color now. Allow the foil strips to dry flat after the 'vertical' coloring applications.
9) Note: If you are having a difficulty with some of the red hues, use a small amount of 'olive green' pastel to mute the reds. Use the coloring sparingly. Apply with a soft brush to spread and blend the pastel using vertical strokes.



The roof components with the basic coloring tones. The final weathering applications, which will be applied later, will further age the roof's appearance.

Well, we have reached a good point to do a bit of switching. I also need to distill the 6 pages of notes I have in front of me for the next installment. Hope that you are enjoying the ride. As always, comments on the good, bad and ugly are always welcome.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/13/2016 08:07:01 AM

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