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Page: of 31

dallas_m
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/02/2015 :  10:54:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's one heck of an elaborate project that you've got going ... and it's shaping up beautifully!

Cheers,
Dallas

Chambers Gas & Oil -- structure build
Quality craftsmanship with a sense of humor!

Country: USA | Posts: 4674 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/03/2015 :  10:08:42 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've had good luck using telephone book paper for tarpaper/roofing paper. It's almost as thin as tissue paper, and a lot stronger. I use the same technique, lay down a heavy coat of paint, lay and push the paper into the paint (getting some realistic small wrinkles and waves), and then painting the paper (while everything is still wet.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 6537 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 09/16/2015 :  12:18:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Guys... just a quick note to let folks know that I'm still around and kicking. I have been working on a 'article', a step-by-step structure build for a magazine and developing a extensive hands-on clinic using balsa foam which I can present at shows. Throw in the summer 'modeling funk' and the result is that I've been a bit remorse in this build. I'm planning on returning to this build in late October/early November '15, so we should be doing roofs and moving forward fairly quickly to complete the diorama. Till then... thanks for checking-in.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7083 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 09/16/2015 :  12:51:12 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, thanks for the update.
We look forward to you returning to work on this great project!

Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 7318 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/21/2015 :  7:51:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So let's kick out the roof for this wheelhouse.

I try not to work from memory as colors tend to get away from reality when doing so. Thus, I'm going to refer to one of my go-to photos. I'm going to use the more maroon colored roof here for the the prototype coloring reference. Reference the larger 'dormer with the slanted roof' in the picture below. Note at the very top edge of the 'dormer' that the corrugated aluminum has a much stronger red hue band in the rusting. I'm not going to have that here, but I wanted to bring your attention to the detail.

NOTE: This picture is used with permission from:
http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=nofrillsphotocds


Water Wheel House - Roofing:
Materials:
A) .015 Bristol Board. I use Borden & Riley #120 Bristol Plate.
B) Campbell Scale Models Corrugated Aluminum #804. (7.5 in x HO 4 ft.) (3 strips)
C) Rust-Oleum Light Grey Auto Primer (Spray Can) #2081.

1) Cut the aluminum stock into 2.75 HO ft. wide pieces. Cutting the stock to width prior to painting will allow you to paint the edges of the aluminum panels.
-HINT- Walk a divider with points in both legs, set to the desired panel width, across the edge of aluminum. Set the aluminum stock on top of a cutting mat to allow a bit of pressure to make small holes in the foil as you walk the dividers. Use sharp scissors to cut the aluminum to width, using the corrugation as a guide.
2) Mount the corrugated aluminum strips to a backboard for spry painting using double sided Scotch tape.
3) Spray paint the aluminum stock with the gray primer. Allow to cure dry.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 10/21/2015 9:03:36 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 7083 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/24/2015 :  4:27:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A minor deviation from the roofing while waiting for the corrugated foil primer to 'cure' dry.

Construct the waterwheel house:
1) The waterwheel house with the grey tissue walls was constructed using the same techniques, material sizes and coloring methods as the first waterwheel house. Reference previous pages for construction notes along with the following construction notes.
2) Glue one end and side wall together making sure the corners are flush . The end walls go between the two long side walls. Also, make sure the bottom is flat. Assembly on a flat surface is required here.
3) Verify the walls are at 90 degrees prior to the glue drying.
4) Repeat the process for the remaining side and end walls.
6) Glue the 2 all assemblies together to make the waterwheel house.









7) A HO 10x10 was was glued between the two walls at about the middle of the structure, on the top (roof) side of the box to reduce the warping experienced on the side walls.
8) Finish the corners using 2x8's colored as the battens were colored.
9) As the corner boards are applied, use a flush nipper to trim the boards. Do only one side to the corner, trim the corner board to length, and then apply the next corner board. For a detailed step-by-step on adding the corner trim, reference the Lucas's Cabin build on page 1, "Add Corner Trim". http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40591

Weather and install waterwheel house window castings:
Materials:
A) A-West Weather-It
B) A-I light wash (1 tsp. ink/1 pt ETOH)
C) 3M Scotchcal Marking Film #8520 backing.
D) Delta Ceramcoat Trail Tan #02435

1) Leave castings on sprue to weather. Using a large soft brush (#4) apply Weather-It with a stippling motion. Put aside to dry with bottom sill down, standing the castings at about 45-60 degree angle. The idea is to get the Weather-it to flow to the bottom of the casting but not run-off as you want the solution to dry in spots on the castings.
2) Repeat as needed on all other castings/sprues.
3) Allow to dry completely.
4) Add window glazing. For glass, I cut to fit and installed a piece of 3M Scotchcal Marking Film #8520 backing. This looks like acetate sprayed with a even layer of Dullcoat, but without the fuss. The window glazing was glued into place using Formula 560 Canopy glue from Pacer Technologies.
5) Allow window glazing to fully dry prior to installing the window castings into the walls.
6) Install the glazed and weathered window castings into the waterwheel house walls.
7) Dry brush the window castings lightly with a light brown or tan colored paint. I used Ceramcoat Trail Tan.



-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/23/2015 10:41:37 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7083 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 10/24/2015 :  5:23:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sure don't know how I missed the post on 10/21... Must have been asleep at the wheel again.

That is sure looking good the coloring is perfect.

With the windows in you really can see how there stepped down.

Great job Kris and a wonderful tutorial again. So many great ideas there.



Edited by - TRAINS1941 on 10/24/2015 8:44:52 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 9525 Go to Top of Page

quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 10/24/2015 :  9:05:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good to see this build resuscitated Kris'..
Nice work as usual...keep it going....



Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4972 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2015 :  02:15:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Construct waterwheel house roof:
Materials:
A) .015 Bristol Board sub-roof.
B) Cut, primed with the primer cured dried: Campbell Scale Models Corrugated Aluminum #804. (7.5 in x HO 4 ft.) (4 strips)
C) Rust-Oleum Light Grey Auto Primer (Spray Can) #2081.
D) Pounce wheel; 250 inch diameter x .041 inch spacing http://www.micromark.com/3-piece-pounce-wheel-set,6668.html
E) Delta Ceramcoat Asbestos or Charcoal craft paint.

About a month ago we cut and primed the Campbell Corrugated Aluminum. I'm pretty sure that enough time has elapsed that it is safe to continue with the roofing process as I think the primer has cured.

Continuing with the numbering sequence from the earlier process posted on 10/21:
4) Use a pounce wheel to add nail holes on the top and bottom edge of each corrugated panel. Eyeball pounce wheel marks at approximately 1/32nd inch from the top and bottom edges of each panel. I ran the pounce wheel free hand but was careful to keep the pounce wheel marks horizontal to the foil edges.
5) Cut a piece matboard sub-roof to size allowing approximately scale 6-inch overhang on all edges. I used the thickness of a two small drafting triangle as a guide. Place the wheel house on top of the matboard and then stand the triangles against opposite walls of the wheelhouse. Mark the matboard for cutting.
6) Paint all edges and both sides of the matboard with a dark colored paint. I used asbestos colored paint. Allow to dry.





7) Draw guidelines on one side of the sub-roof to assist in the alignment of the corrugated panels when glued into place. I used a O-scale 2 foot width between the guidelines. Make sure to allow for an approximate scale 6-8 inch overhang on all edges prior to marking guidelines.
8) Apply corrugated panels using Aleene's Tacky Glue or 3M double sided transfer tape (preferred). I used the Aleene's due to the small area and I was unable to readily find the 3M tape. IF using the Aleene's, clean up any glue which may weep from the seams using a paper towel damp with water and lightly removing the excess glue. Do this after applying each panel while the glue is still wet.
9) Place the roof under weight on a solid flat surface and allow to dry.

In the picture below note how the foil overhang is uneven and rough.


10) Use a HO scale 4x4 as a guide to trim the metal roofing. Place the roof, metal side down, on a cutting mat. Place the 4x4 strip on the foil and against the matboard edge. Use a #18 chisel blade to cut the foil using a downward push while pressing the flat back side of the blade against the 4x4 guide. This will provide a clean cut roof line with a even 4 inch overhang on all edges. A 2 inch wide fascia board will be applied later. This will result in a 2 inch overhang of the metal roofing material.

The picture below shows the 4x4 stripwood guide in place prior to cutting the foil. The guide is at the bottom edge of the roof.


Below you can see how the metal roofing edges have an even width overhang on all edges.




-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/23/2015 10:43:36 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7083 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 11/22/2015 :  08:19:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, nice work on that corrugated roofing.
And even better to see you back at work on this project!

Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 7318 Go to Top of Page

Dutchman
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2015 :  08:33:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris, the roof looks great, as does the Water Wheel House that it sits on.

Thanks again for the detailed step by step description!


Bruce

Modeling the railroads of the Jersey Highlands in HO and the logging railroads of Pennsylvania in HOn3

Country: USA | Posts: 30127 Go to Top of Page

Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 11/22/2015 :  1:16:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit Carl B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice work Kris!


Country: USA | Posts: 2358 Go to Top of Page

quartergauger48
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2015 :  2:12:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks like the occupants will not have to worry about leaks any time soon'..


Ted

Country: USA | Posts: 4972 Go to Top of Page

TRAINS1941
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2015 :  3:32:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Kris great work on that roof. Nice tutorial on how you did it.

How much weathering are you going to add? Or you going to leave as a new roof?



Country: USA | Posts: 9525 Go to Top of Page

hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 11/22/2015 :  8:58:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks all. Not yet done with the tutorial on this one. More tomorrow. I'm going to use the more maroon colored roof pictured at the top of this page for the the prototype coloring reference. Reference the larger 'dormer with the slanted roof' in the picture above. Note at the very top edge of the 'dormer' that the corrugated aluminum has a much stronger red hue band in the rusting. Still working on this.

I might note here that I originally thought that the top row of corrugated panels of the model would be about the same size as the rest of the metal panels. But, as can be seen, this did not turn out to be the case. My original thinking was that all the panels would weather to about the same color, thus I thought that I would skip the subtle red band at the top of the panel, as noted in my comment with the prototype picture. But... as my top panels turned out to be very short panels, with a lot of air on the underside of the metal in relationship to the size of the panel, I thought that maybe I should include the red band rusting as in the prototype. The trick is to not get the red to strong or it will look wrong. This is what I'm "working on".

Also, consider the red coloring of the corrugated metal in this picture from page 12 of this thread.


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 11/23/2015 12:09:24 AM

Country: USA | Posts: 7083 Go to Top of Page
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