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Railrunner130
Engine Wiper
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 Posted - 09/06/2013 : 9:22:20 PM
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I recently purchased a Roundhouse Climax kit in HO-scale. For the most part it assembled quickly and easily. I have two issues.
1. I'm pretty sure I assembled the motor part of it correctly. However, in testing I realized the polarity is backwards because it operates in the opposite direction of a normal locomotive in forward. I'm not quite sure how to fix it, but any answers would be appreciated.
2. I have a lot of finish parts left over. There are a number of sheets that identify those parts and some even show where some of them go. But, I've got a bunch of parts left over. As a side note, does anyone know what the different smoke stacks were used for?
Thanks!
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Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine" |
Country: USA
| Posts: 293 |
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closetguy
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/06/2013 : 9:35:37 PM
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Hi
Either flip your motor wires or the track feed wires.You did not mention if this was DC or DCC. If DCC change the CV.
As for extra parts, many of these older kits have been goosed with extra parts over the years from previous owners. enjoy the extra parts. I'm not a smoke stack expert. Defer this question to the logging, mining crowd.
Mike M
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1853 |
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railphotog
Fireman
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Posted - 09/06/2013 : 9:57:50 PM
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I assume the model is actually a Shay, don't believe Roundhouse made a Climax.
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Bob Boudreau
My model railroad photography website:
http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/ |
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Country: Canada
| Posts: 3999 |
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Railrunner130
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/06/2013 : 10:25:37 PM
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I am running straight DC. I think I need to flip the motor over and move the wires accordingly. Funny, I had it that way to begin with. Then I read the directions and realized it was upside down.
The outside of the box states that it's a Climax. The kit is #02770. It's a boxy thing with two geared trucks.
With the extra parts, I wonder if there were other kits (perhaps a Shay) that used some of the same items and that's why they were included?
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Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine" |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 293 |
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desertdrover
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/07/2013 : 09:55:45 AM
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Hi, what you have is indeed a Climax made by Roundhouse. They were known for adding extra parts in there kits. It was easier to make a mold with all the parts for other locomotives, and rolling stock, and throw it all together into the kits. The parts are for their Shay and Climax locomotives. The stacks they offered were shown in the below picture. A Taper Stack, Diamond Stack and B&H Stack were often offered by MDC. Wood, coal burners and areas of high fire, made the difference of choice of stack used on locomotive. I would suggest, if you are running a logging area, to use the R&H or Diamond Stack for their spark arrestor capabilities.
Check out this link; http://www.railroad-line.com/discussion/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20610
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 Louis
Pacific Northwest Logging in the East Coast |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 17286 |
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Railrunner130
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/07/2013 : 8:53:43 PM
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Perfect! Exactly the kind of information I was looking for! Thanks!
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Rutland Railroad
White River Division
"The Peavine" |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 293 |
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closetguy
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/08/2013 : 10:50:29 AM
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I think the climax frame is similar to the Box Cab. I have a non-powered climax kit as well a built up non powered i found at a flea market. I converted my box cab to dcc. I want to add sound. Just not sure if it can over come the drive noise.
Mike M
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1853 |
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Geared Steam
Section Hand
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Posted - 09/08/2013 : 12:21:18 PM
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Yes, the MDC Climax and Boxcab use the exact same chassis (frame) I forgo using it since it has it limitations, and replace the chassis with one from a Bachmann 44 ton loco.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 98 |
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Cascade Man
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/21/2013 : 6:30:52 PM
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I love these little climax's. I added a fly wheel and a cheap can motor, and DCC to mine and it runs very smooth and quiet. If you get a chance look for a book by Ron Lefever that tells you how to detail these little guys and to make them run perfectly. There is also an article in an old Model Railroader backissue that shows you how to kit bash the cab so it looks even more realistic. I will mosy around my magazines and see if I can find the article.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 319 |
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EM-1
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/21/2013 : 8:34:12 PM
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Bryan,
How did you get a Can to work in yours? much the same way as the factory motor? AND have you used the NWSL Bull gear or not? I got a few of these and would like to take one and see if I can't do something a bit better. I have a few ways, BUT, I want to hear what others has done to make their run better....
What's the name of Ron Lefever book on these?
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Country: USA
| Posts: 343 |
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Geared Steam
Section Hand
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Cascade Man
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/21/2013 : 11:10:37 PM
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No problem! I took a can motor w/ a 2.0mm shaft and secured it by first placing styrene on the bottom of the chassis and on the sides of the indent in the chassis where the motor goes. Then I placed electrical tape over the styrene shims. This did two thing: shimmed the motor to the proper height, and insulated it from the metal so it doesn't short circuit. Also, the electrical tape absorbs some of the vibrations from the motor and gears. Motor was secured using epoxy and more electrical tape. I used the NWSL bull gear and flywheel to add some weight and heft to the drive system. One of the most important parts was getting into the bull gear housing and sanding the inside to remove the burrs. I did the same for the truck gears and interior. I will take a picture of the chassis and motor tomorrow morning when I get back from the fire station. 
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Country: USA
| Posts: 319 |
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bitlerisvj
Fireman
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Posted - 09/23/2013 : 12:00:32 PM
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I did not know that NWSL made a bull gear for the Climax/Boxcab. I do have the NWSL one for the Shay, but I did not think that was interchangeable. Do you have the NWSL part number for the bull gear?
Thanks and regards, Vic Bitleris
quote:
Originally posted by Cascade Man
No problem! I took a can motor w/ a 2.0mm shaft and secured it by first placing styrene on the bottom of the chassis and on the sides of the indent in the chassis where the motor goes. Then I placed electrical tape over the styrene shims. This did two thing: shimmed the motor to the proper height, and insulated it from the metal so it doesn't short circuit. Also, the electrical tape absorbs some of the vibrations from the motor and gears. Motor was secured using epoxy and more electrical tape. I used the NWSL bull gear and flywheel to add some weight and heft to the drive system. One of the most important parts was getting into the bull gear housing and sanding the inside to remove the burrs. I did the same for the truck gears and interior. I will take a picture of the chassis and motor tomorrow morning when I get back from the fire station.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1405 |
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Cascade Man
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/27/2013 : 11:31:44 PM
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Yeah I will get the part number and a photo of my climax tomorrow! Me and my wife are just coming back from a vacation.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 319 |
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Cascade Man
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 09/29/2013 : 01:39:01 AM
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There are two style of bull gears for the climax/boxcab. The most common one is the the single bull gear. NWSL part #77626-6. The other type is the two gear style, a bull gear and a smaller idler gear #78612-6. I can't find my SD card for my camera so let me do some searching...
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Country: USA
| Posts: 319 |
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closetguy
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 09/29/2013 : 11:33:10 AM
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Good Morning All
Just was looking at the NWSL page and it specifically says no replacement gears for the MDC Climax/Box Cab available. So I too am curious what you used and how you did it.
Thank you
Mike M
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Country: USA
| Posts: 1853 |
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