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brownbr
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 02/12/2013 :  07:35:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work on the spider. Can't wait to see more of the turntable.

Bryan

Country: USA | Posts: 1444 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/12/2013 :  11:36:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you for your comment brownbr. I am not actually going to do a build on the turntable. Just the spider assembly. Geezer is doing a great job on the table and I do not wish to step on his fine thread.

Anyway, the run was cancelled, so I am back home and going to start the spider assembly build today. Have a nice long weekend ahead of me.
The great thing about this unit, it isn't hard to do and it uses readily available materials.
No machining is required. The only power tool I used, was the drill press.

Contructing "THE SWEET SIXTEEN SPIDER ASSEMBLY"

Tools:

* Dremel Drill Press
* 1/16" drill bit
* small V-block
* Needle files/flat and round
* Razor saw and mitre box or use a tubing
cutter. (The latter makes a much better
and easier cut for the tubing.)
* Single edge razor blades
* Wire nippers
* Tweezers
* Chopper
* Ruler
* Compass
* 1/4 or 1/8 graph paper. 1/8 is better.
* ACC
* White glue (for the wood part)
* Paint and weathering powders

Materials:

* 1 K&S 5/8" pt.#143 brass tube
* 1 K&S 13/32" pt.#136 brass tube
* 1 pk. K&S 1/16" pt.#1800 aluminum tubing
* 1 pk. K&S 1/8" pt.#1802 aluminum tubing
* 1 pk. K&S 1/32" pt.#8160 brass rod
* 1 pk. Evergreen .020 x .125 plastic
strips pt.#126
* 3 Nylon or hard plastic bushings or
spacers...12mm O.D.x 10.4mm I.D.
x 3/8" h.
* 2 1 1/4 x 3/8 flat washers
* 3 13/16 x 3/8 flat washers
*16 metal axle HO scale freight
car wheelsets.
* Stripwood necessary to build
the upper and lower rail supports and
base.
(Same sizes as required as per article
in the On30 annual.)

Here are all the subassemblies that make up the complete unit.



First, the changes in the layout for the spyder rails and the base they sit or hang from.
These changes make no difference on how they are placed on the base with exception to eight minor places. You will notice at the top and the bottom and on either side, they are cut to sit square on the base beams. Not at an angle. It is not a major change. Nor does it change the dimensions of the base. One other little change is, only slightly, how the unit is fastened to the bottom of your turntable itself.



Now to begin the center hub:

Using our fancy indexing tool...Cut a piece of your graph paper in one, 1/4" wide strip, by 8 squares in length. It is critical that you cut it out exactly. Before you stick the tape to it, wrap it around the tube to see how the ends come together. It may take more than one try, but, it must be exact. Same if using 1/8", only you will count off sixteen. Using the 1/4", you will have to make some extra marks so you come up with 1/8" ctr. points along the entire strip. Using 1/8 graph paper, this step is done away with. 1/8 graph paper, also makes a much better job of it.

Once you have done this, place a piece of clear tape over the strip and wrap it around the 5/8 inch brass tube on the very edge.



Now you are ready to begin drilling 1/16" holes all the way around the tube. Also note that if your holes are off center just a micro, up, down or even sideways, it won't matter. Just don't let it go drastic. You can make up any differences, later on in the build.



Once done with this, you will then remove the index paper and cut the piece you just drilled, off the brass tube. You want it to be 1/4" wide. It is not that critical though.

Getting called away again. I thought I had a long weekend. Could be another false alarm.

Ok, I am back and this time through the next three days.

Where did I leave off. Ah yes...once you have cut this section from the tube, clean out all the burr's there might be present, with your round needle file. Then you will place it on one of the nylon bushings. You want it just a smidge above center.




You will notice that mine isn't too pretty. But, some forgiveness is built in.

DO NOT USE ANY GLUE HERE!

I will let you know when it is time to start using the sticky stuff.


Don't know what a smidge is, but it ain't much. This is so you will have some slight downward pressure on the center hub, keeping the wheels tightly to the rails. You'll see what I mean when it comes time for that. It will all come together in the end for ya.

Now, holding it firmly, drill your first hole through the bushing using the brass ring as your template. Do not try to go through both sides sides of the bushing.

Once you have that first hole drilled, push a small piece of 1/16" aluminum tubing all the way through, to the inside of the bushing. This will hold the ring in place while you drill out the rest of the tube holes in the bushing.



Now drill out the rest of the holes. Then clean all the burr material from the inside of the bushing.

Cut all sixteen axle tubes with your trusty single edge razor blade from your 1/16" stock. I do this by just rolling the tube across the work surface with the blade, with downward pressure. The tube are 1 1/16" in length. Once cut, clean up the ends with a light filing to remove the little ridge that appears. Do not go overboard with this, or the fit in the hole will be to loose. Place the first tube into one of the holes. Push it to where it is just short of coming all the way through to the inside. Then remove the aluminum pin you had holding the ring in place.
Then follow suit with the rest of the tubes until all sixteen are in place.



All this and you have not used one drop of glue.

That's it for today. Will pick this up and onward tomorrow!

Enjoy!

Happy Railroading

Dave (HWCRR)










Edited by - HWCRR on 02/20/2013 08:58:29 AM

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Geezer
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2013 :  2:55:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave -
I for one am glad to see you posting this,
especially in a step-by-step how-to. Using a
larger 5/8" tube definately makes things easier.
Ask me how I know....LOL! I will be following along,
as I may try to build one just for the halibut.....
Thanks for posting.


"You can find my Website & Threads here:"
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47229

Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/12/2013 :  5:49:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Geezer. I am looking forward to seeing this under your great turntable! Yes, doing it this way, gets rid of the unnth degree oddball measurements. Makes them all 1/32, 1/16, 1/8, 5/8, etc...

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 02/12/2013 5:50:34 PM

Country: | Posts: 415 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2013 :  5:53:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, a nice piece of engineering.
Thanks for the how-to.


As you think, so will you be.

Country: USA | Posts: 21468 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/13/2013 :  03:34:41 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wonderful work and a nice tutorial, Dave. Thanks for sharing.


Country: France | Posts: 17626 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/13/2013 :  08:39:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Geezer, Rick and Frederic. Your appreciation is appreciated. It helps to fan the flames.

Here we are, having made the axle tube hub assembly...that's a mouthful.





If your tubes are off up or down or a little off in the space between on the outer diameter, don't worry about it. It will all be taken care of a little later.
Set your hub assembly to one side and lets get to the wheels and axles.

I am using HO scale freight car wheelsets that have a metal axle.



Remove the wheels from the axle and put the axle into your parts bin for some future other use.
Now you make the bushing that goes into the wheels. This is made from the 1/8" and the 1/16" aluminum tubing.







Notice the wheel orientation on the tubing. Now we use some acc to bond the wheels to the tube. I put acc on the tube between the wheels, then little dabs on the wheel facing edges.



Then the inside wheel is slid down to the outside and the outside wheel is flush with the tubing edge.
And a partridge in a pear tree...



Now, cut your new wheelset from the tubing, flush with the inside wheel, using your trusty razor blade again, rolling as you apply pressure. Don't cut all the way through. About two times around and you can just break it off. Cuts down on the small ridge inside the tube. Clean, neat and ready.
Make all sixteen sets in the same manner.
Will be back shortly.

Enjoy!

Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)




Edited by - HWCRR on 02/13/2013 08:50:45 AM

Country: | Posts: 415 Go to Top of Page

Geezer
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/13/2013 :  11:41:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Dave -

I guess any kind of hard plastic bushing would work...yeah?
( Nylon spacers O.D 12mm I.D. 10.4mm) Or do they have to be Nylon?


"You can find my Website & Threads here:"
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47229

Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/13/2013 :  11:50:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes, any hard plastic bushing would work. As long as the I.D./O.D. is the same. I just listed it as nylon because that is what I found. I was in the hardware store trying this and that. After about 45 mins. of this trial and error expedition, I found that the nylon bushing worked the best. I didn't think it would be difficult to find. Maybe I thought wrong. If so, then I am glad you brought this to my attention geezer. I found it in a mom and pop hardware store.

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 02/13/2013 11:56:40 AM

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Geezer
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/13/2013 :  8:52:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am forfaging at LOWES this weekend - I will post what I find.
I have some brass tubem but need to get the big stuff.


"You can find my Website & Threads here:"
http://www.railroad-line.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=47229

Country: USA | Posts: 12973 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/14/2013 :  08:36:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If you cannot find what is needed, there is a company called "igus," that I found on the internet. I do believe they have banners here in the forum also. They make a whole line of plastic bushings and bearings. You can also get a catalog from them. I don't know if they have minimum amount purchases or not. Probably do though. McClendons Hardware is my favorite store. They have six different stores around Seattle. The address for the one I use: 10210 16th Ave. S.W. Seattle, Wa Ph.# 206-762-4090 The locator numbers on the bin are: MSP-YA 10274790. I don't know any reason they would not mail ya some. But, I cannot claim they would. (disclaimer) I do not work for this store nor do I have a financial interest in their operations.


Country: | Posts: 415 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/14/2013 :  09:43:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Once you have that step done, you are going to start all over with the 1/16" tubing. Slide the tubing all the way through the 1/8" bushing you just finished. You will want enough sticking out on the other side, to put some acc on, then you will pull it back into the wheelset, leaving 3/32" of it, sticking out on one side.



Then again with your razor blade, cut the tubing flush with the back of the wheelset like you did before. The side with the short extension has now become the front of your wheelset. Repeat this for all sixteen sets.



Once finished with this step, you have to start over once again.
From the 1/32 brass rod, cut sixteen 1" pieces, these will become the axles.
you will need to clean up any burr's, so they will go through the bushings you just made.
Putting some acc on one end of the rod, push it into the wheelset until it is flush with the outside edge of the tubing. Do all sixteen wheelsets the same.



Now you can put all wheelsets into the hub/axle housing unit.



Now, admire it for a little bit! Just a little note here. It is a shame that all the work you have performed, with the exception of the outside wheel and the outer ring, won't be seen, unless you make your table removable, so you can show it off! Doing that would not be that difficult to do. But, all this work,makes this spider assembly fully operational and you will know what is making your turntable operate so effortlessly.

Next on the agenda, is to make the spacer ring that goes on the outside of the wheels.
For this step, we use the plastic strip material. Now, some of you may not like using plastic. For you, you can substitute brass shim stock. The dimensions remain the same. I tried both, but preferred the plastic. It's easier to work with.

Measure for the first reference mark, 5/16" from the end. From that point measure 5/8" for every reference mark until you have sixteen marks for drilling. Make these as exact as possible.
When you have made your last mark, measure 5/16" again and that's where, you cut the strip. It should be exactly 10" in length.
Then using the needle on your compass, make your pilot hole indents, then using your drill press, drill all sixteen holes with the 1/16" drill bit.





Sorry the images are not very good, are they?



Again gotta step away for a bit.

Please feel completely free to ask any questions you might have on the building of this unit. I am fallible and can leave something out or forget something. I am old and my hard drive is full!

All comments and questions, are welcome.

Enjoy and Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 02/14/2013 10:02:52 AM

Country: | Posts: 415 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/14/2013 :  1:14:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Now is a good time to paint and weather the wheelsets.
I paint the outside and the tread area with Polly S Oily black. Once this has dried, I mix up a very thin wash of Polly S Rust. Then wash down the wheelsets with this.
Try to keep all paint off the 3/32" shaft coming out the front of the wheelsets.



Once dry, I will then use Bragdon bright rust.


Then, over that I will brush on some Bragdon black. Not enough to cover the rust, but just enough to push it back.



Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 02/14/2013 3:19:48 PM

Country: | Posts: 415 Go to Top of Page

Frederic Testard
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/14/2013 :  3:38:09 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A lot of fine ideas in the second part of this tutorial, Dave. Very very clever!


Country: France | Posts: 17626 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/14/2013 :  5:17:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Frederic. This build has been quite the journey! I had been giving this a lot of thought. I really wanted a prototypical looking gallows turntable. The table is fairly easy, but this... Then one day driving down or up the road, however one wants to look at it, a light went off in my head. This spider assembly is the end result. Again, thank you for dropping by and your great comments.

Dave (HWCRR)



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