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 Enginehouse for Horace and William Creek
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Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/02/2013 :  11:02:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ryan, thanks for letting us know.
Send your Dad our best wishes and we all hope he's back at the modeling bench soon.

Ryan, how about sharing some of your military modeling with us.


As you think, so will you be.

Country: USA | Posts: 21451 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/08/2013 :  08:46:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks everybody, for the comments. It is all well appreciated. It is hell getting older; sometimes.
The doc has told me I am to take it easy. I asked if that meant my model railroading too. She just sort of gave me a smile and said nothing.

I have been working on it again for the last couple of days and decided I wanted to come into 'the' forum and do some posting of the lastest accomplishments.



Have started building the electrical for the enginehouse. Here is one of the 10 truss wiring supports being put together.







Here is where they will reside on either side of the trusses. each truss will have two but only every other truss will have lights hanging from them. That's five trusses which will carry the lights.



I have decided to make the reflectors myself. Using 3x5 blank index cards. The same as all the gussets on the trusses. Taking great care and with marvelous precicision, (as I want perfect circles), I cut each one freehand..... NOT!
Actually, I used a nickle as my template and just began nibbleing around the nickle with a pair of scissors. And, I do mean nibble.

This is what I end up with. A reasonable facsimile of a perfect circle.





Once I have them all cut out and formed, I punched a hole in the top of each one to insert the LED. I am using 3mm led's because I wanted it to look as though each light had a glass protector over the bulb. Then I paint each reflector with permanent green acrylic paint, including the part of the led that comes out of the top of the reflector.



Now it is time to temporarily place the first four of twenty lights that will be in the enginehouse. The led leads will be cut to the proper length, then the wire soldered to each. That will come up through the beam seperation along the length of the truss. Once everything is determined for proper fit and placement. The wiring will begin.







Have a good shot here of all the knobs that will support the wiring on the truss. One side anyway. That's also times 5 by the way. Lots of work ahead.

Ain't it fun?

Enjoy! Happy Railroading

Dave (HWCRR)






Edited by - HWCRR on 01/08/2013 4:19:37 PM

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HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/08/2013 :  5:51:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Whenever I take a road trip, I never drive myself hard, to get to the destination. It's always there. I take a lot of side trips. Sort of like building this enginehouse.

Worked on it somemore this afternoon. Got some of the wiring done on one of the trusses, as well as weathering what was done.









Little more on the yellow side than I care for. Any ideas out there? I used white led's with just a little yellow dye. Without it, the light is way to white.





None of the wiring has of yet, been terminated with the bus wiring. That won't happen till all the trusses are in place.

Enjoy! Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)



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dallas_m
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 01/08/2013 :  8:37:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Brilliant! (Pun definitely intended.) The trusses alone look great and all of the little knobs, wiring and bits ... Well, eventually, those will fall into the "background" of the interior which will contribute to loads of depth in the interior scenes. Nice! Take it easy.

Cheers,
Dallas

Chambers Gas & Oil -- structure build
Quality craftsmanship with a sense of humor!

Country: USA | Posts: 4674 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 01/08/2013 :  9:29:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
All this old knob & tube wiring looks like a fire hazard to me.
You better put some rain barrels on that roof Dave.

Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 6839 Go to Top of Page

Thorn Creek and Western
Fireman



Posted - 01/08/2013 :  11:06:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit Thorn Creek and Western's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Dave-
I've been silently following your thread for a while, but since you commented on my Ambroid build thread today I thought it would be right neighborly for me to stop by here and set a spell. I admire the way you're working slowly and enjoying each little invention.

When I was seven years old we moved into a house that had that knob and tube style wiring and I 'helped' my dad rewire the whole place. I learned a lot and actually wasn't killed! (Speaking of which the walls were plaster and asbestos and the plumbing was all lead pipes-- but that's another story.)

I have seen (in magazines,) a few attempts to power lights with model wiring, but nothing even remotely in scale or as nicely designed as yours. I'm looking forward to seeing the enginehouse all lit up.
-Dave


-Dave

Country: USA | Posts: 2456 Go to Top of Page

Rick
Administrator

Premium Member


Posted - 01/09/2013 :  06:22:04 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Dave, nice to see you back at it again.
You're doing some amazing work here.
I was going to ask if you were going to weather the light shades, but the last two pictures answered my question.


As you think, so will you be.

Country: USA | Posts: 21451 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/09/2013 :  08:25:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It feels good to be back to this. It gives a great deal of satisfaction.
When I first began coming into the forum, I was and still am, amazed by the collection of what I consider, some of the world's finest modelers and beautiful examples of the work you do. The only reason I don't mention names here, is because the list would be as long as, well, the list of members.
Also, when I first began doing this thread, I made the statement that: "I am better at doing, than I am at telling!" That still holds true.
I have visited a lot of threads and am so impressed with the patience and care that goes into the models (art), presented there.
Each and every one of you have contributed, in no small part, to what I am doing with this enginehouse thread.
If I do not comment much in your threads, it isn't because of snobbery or a lack of admiration. It is, as a matter of fact, quite the opposite.
With this enginehouse thread, I am doing my best, to keep up with the quality of workmanship and talent you all possess.

Hmmm, rainbarrels eh? I wonder, if I could put in a sprinkler system? The system in use today, was invented in 1890, and used in commercial buildings of the era I am modeling. Let's see: piping, elbows and valves. Suspension straps..... Rainbarrels though, would be easier.

I looked far and wide, for wiring that would work. It is though, a little out of scale, but I am hoping the overall look will dampen that aspect.

Dave, Rick, Dallas and Greg. Those are not placed in order of importance, but of memeory. (I can't remember what the word memory means) Thank you for all your comments. But, I am still wanting to know if anyone has suggestions on LED's. I am using white light led's, with a touch of yellow dye. Without the dye, they are too white. With the dye, a little more yellow than I care for.

Happy Railroading

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 01/09/2013 08:44:06 AM

Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

Thorn Creek and Western
Fireman



Posted - 01/09/2013 :  1:31:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Thorn Creek and Western's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by HWCRR

...But, I am still wanting to know if anyone has suggestions on LED's. I am using white light led's, with a touch of yellow dye. Without the dye, they are too white. With the dye, a little more yellow than I care for.

Happy Railroading

Dave (HWCRR)


When I first started working with LEDs Bill Sartore (slimjerkins here on the Forum) gave me a lot of help. He's the guy behind Microlumina.
http://microlumina.com/store/
I'd PM Bill and ask away.
-Dave


-Dave

Country: USA | Posts: 2456 Go to Top of Page

Ensign
Fireman

Posted - 01/09/2013 :  2:12:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Dave, I've used the "new" incandescent LED colour,and was very happy with the colour of light produced.Bill has different sizes he can offer you.





Greg Shinnie



Country: Canada | Posts: 6839 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/09/2013 :  8:19:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I had almost forgotten what little electronics knowledge I possess. I was putting this wiring in, without thinking of a very major issue. This is doing things just a little differently I do believe. As I am not connecting the led's in series, but parallel, it is going to require a voltage source that puts out only the voltage of one led. In series, each would pull its own amount of voltage. So, if I am connecting three leds in series, then each would require 1.5v, sooooo, I would need a 4.5v power source.
Now, in parallel, each led will get the full voltage of the power supply, which means they would each get 4.5v. Fry time!!
But, wired in parallel also means the current goes up. But, this won't hurt the led's as they only draw the current they require to run.
Now, this opens up another can of worms. This means that each LED, will require its own resistor! This is going to cause something of a stir with the knob and tube wiring, I think.

Here is a pic of how I was doing this. Good grief! This works fine if using bulbs, but.....



Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)





Edited by - HWCRR on 01/10/2013 09:08:59 AM

Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/10/2013 :  06:58:58 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Slept on this and woke up with a bright and shiny epiphany . It will not interfere with the knob and tube wiring at all. Just adds another side trip. Almost had a panic attack.

I can place small resistors in series with the led's and you will never see them. After all the A E I O and U's, here is my solution.



That is a 160 ohm by the way.

10mA x 4 = 40mA > .04A
R=(v1-v2)/I
R=(9v - 1.7v)/.04A
R= an oddball resistance of 175 ohm. So, I made them 160 ohm. Close enough. Did I figure that right?

This could have been a total disaster had my meager brain not clicked on this. Been close to 30 years since I worked with electronics.









Once it is up between the gap in the truss, the electrical bus is place on top in its still original posistion and the resistor becomes virtually invisible. WHEW!!!



Voila'!

Enjoy! Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 01/10/2013 10:10:32 AM

Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

bitlerisvj
Fireman

Posted - 01/10/2013 :  10:07:31 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How about using a 1.5 volt Regulator and you won't have any issues at all.
http://www.jameco.com/1/1/17532-lt1763cs8-1-5pbf-1-5v-fixed-positive-ldo-regulator.html
This one can handle up to .5 amps. I doubt your little LEDs will draw that much. This particular one can handle as little as 1.8 to 20 volts as input. A plain old 12 volt DC power pack can handle this easily.
Regards, Vic B.
quote:
Originally posted by HWCRR

I had almost forgotten what little electronics knowledge I possess. I was putting this wiring in, without thinking of a very major issue. This is doing things just a little differently I do believe. As I am not connecting the led's in series, but parallel, it is going to require a voltage source that puts out only the voltage of one led. In series, each would pull its own amount of voltage. So, if I am connecting three leds in series, then each would require 1.5v, sooooo, I would need a 4.5v power source.
Now, in parallel, each led will get the full voltage of the power supply, which means they would each get 4.5v. Fry time!!
But, wired in parallel also means the current goes up. But, this won't hurt the led's as they only draw the current they require to run.
Now, this opens up another can of worms. This means that each LED, will require its own resistor! This is going to cause something of a stir with the knob and tube wiring, I think.

Here is a pic of how I was doing this. Good grief! This works fine if using bulbs, but.....



Happy Railroading!

Dave (HWCRR)







Country: USA | Posts: 1405 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 01/10/2013 :  10:23:43 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Vic. As I am very limited in my recollections, (old timers), are you saying that this is the regulator I should use in the power supply? That this would do away with all the resistors?

Dave (HWCRR)



Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

HWCRR
Engine Wiper



Posted - 02/12/2013 :  06:29:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It has been awhile since I posted anything about the enginehouse build. Actually, I have put it to one side for a little bit of time. Giving it a rest, one might say. Not long enough to gather any dust mind you. But, that does not mean other pending projects have to be ignored.

Well, as the turntable is also part of a complete engine service facility, I decided to start on the turntable. I thought I might start a new thread for this build, but it is a part of the whole so I added it to this thread.

I looked and looked and looked for a spider assembly and could not find anything anywhere.
I had myself almost convinced it would be too hard to build. Well, I finally bit the bullet and here is my 'sweet sixteen' spider assembly for a gallows turntable.

I am not going to get into the how to's and wherefore's of building the table itself.

I changed some of the measurements on the base and table ring support. I did this, not because there is anything wrong with the drawings everyone has out of the 'annual.' It was done to simplify, the hair splitting measurements involved and, it is very difficult to get sixteen axles onto that tiny little center hub as it is drawn. Sooooo, a little re-engineering was called for. The article in the 'annual', is not about building the spider assembly. It does give a vague perhaps, but not the actual building. It is, actually, about building the turntable. So, I hope that I am not stepping on anyone's toes here by infringing on anything that is copyrighted.

This spider assembly is very sturdy and has a great deal of strength.

It took me three weeks to 'knock' this together. Many trips to the local hardware store. Experimenting with this and that.

I hope this is useful. I have run mine through many rotations, (didn't count them) and the unit works flawlessly. It requires no lubrication. It operates as smooth as the fuzz on a babies cheeks. It should give many moons of trouble free service; if you decide you want to build one, of course.

Here is a teaser photo for you. It is still needing paint and weathering. And no, the brass tube does not remain there, it is there just to line everything up for the now. My weekend is coming up and that's when I will begin. For now, made a quick stop home for some coffee and to post this. "I'm on the road again...la la la la la la la la something, something again..."



Enjoy and Happy Railroading!

Any and all comments are welcome.

Dave (HWCRR)



Edited by - HWCRR on 02/12/2013 07:35:35 AM

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