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Author Topic Next Topic: Projects in Progress on the Southern Central RR
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railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/06/2013 :  7:00:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Skip,
Welcome to railroad lines forums. be sure to look around, there is a lot a great modeling going on here.

Thank you for you kind remarks on my layout. It's slowly getting better.

On remotoring; I don't think two motors would give you any added value. The problem with the small motors is their high RPM's which require higher ratio gear boxes and loss there torgue in the process.

On the Stubs; Yes, I using code 70 and this is HO Std. Gauge. There should be no reason you couldn't use code 83 rail. But why would you? It's way too big for the era. I wish I could use code 40 as it's closer to scale but I would have to go out and buy commercial frogs or jigs for them I could not afford it. I was able to by my frogs 2nd hand on Ebay. By being careful I paid about 2.50 for each.

Stay tuned for exciting developments.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/06/2013 :  7:07:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Håkan,
Thanks for the link. I do have a copy of it, reread it last night. It has several good ideas. I don't like his travel limiters. If I use such I will use Dodge's wire ones.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/09/2013 :  10:33:02 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, (yes, it's a deep subject. But, this isn't) while I wait for snail mail to deliver my turnout ties I've been catching up on honey dos and planning. I put together (temp) a PSC Harp switch stand to measure its throw;


It comes out to 3/16" (each way, These harps are designed to operate a 3-way switch) this throw corresponds to the gap that is used by SHINOHARA on their code 70 switches and the throw of Caboose Hobbies HO ground throws. It was also used in the gap of the rails on the head block by the maker of this 3-way stub which I am using (along with Warris' Guild) to guild my switch building.

This switch work well but I want more curve in mine so as to more resemble trackwork of the period as seen in the prior photos. As neither of my two NMRA track gauge have the "No Go" gauge on them I will have to make my own.

Comments are most welcomed



It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/10/2013 :  07:15:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That three way looks good. Getting all three frogs to line up properly must have taken a little work.

George



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railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/10/2013 :  09:38:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by George D

That three way looks good. Getting all three frogs to line up properly must have taken a little work.

George



Hi George, I really appreciate you dropping by and your positive comments but you got to read the boring text that accompany the pictures. I did not build the pictured Three way, I bought it.
More info coming this evening after a little sleep.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/10/2013 :  10:52:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I missed that, Bob, but it's still a good looking three way.

George



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Carl B
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 08/10/2013 :  11:04:06 AM  Show Profile  Visit Carl B's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Hey Bob,

Still following along, keep up the good work!

Track laying....now that's cool...



Country: USA | Posts: 2787 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/10/2013 :  8:30:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Carl, Thanks for dropping and posting.

I did some Math. As I have often said; I've done a little (OK too much) research and several years ago I got a copy of "3-Way Stub Clinic '98" by an unknown author and a forgotten source. I needed to take better notes then. Anyway, it has some very useful information. Including formulas for determining the length of the track components. Here is HIS drawing showing component names;


Now using the math he provided;
HO Std. Gauge #4
L=5.25" L'=1.9" L''=3.35 R=20.8

HO Std. Gauge #6
L=7.8" L'=2.96" L''=4.84"

He adds;
3-way; Crotch Frog to Head block 12'2" (scale)1.67" (actual).

It will be interesting how these numbers
compare with what I end up with. But they do harmonize with the parts and templets I'm using.




Download Attachment: stubGeo.jpg
34.14 KB


It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 08/10/2013 8:38:45 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

Carrie Creek
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/15/2013 :  5:03:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, looking forward to see one of your stub turnouts. I do have a question for you though. You mentioned "Dodge's wire stops" is this in reference to soldering a piece of wire in the outside web of the rail to stop the moving rail from going past? Also are you figuring out a way to keep the moving rail in the correct vertical plane?
Keep up the great work


Phil Z
POR (press on regardless)

Country: USA | Posts: 1484 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/15/2013 :  7:27:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Carrie Creek

Bob, looking forward to see one of your stub turnouts. I do have a question for you though. You mentioned "Dodge's wire stops" is this in reference to soldering a piece of wire in the outside web of the rail to stop the moving rail from going past? Also are you figuring out a way to keep the moving rail in the correct vertical plane?
Keep up the great work



Hi Phil, Yes the "Dodge" method is a wire soldered into the web on the outside rails. I'm going to try and modify a rail joiner to represent a "chair" to act as a stop and keep the Vertical height right. If my idea fails I'll use one of the two methods I've seen; the Fast track approach use spikes to hold the throw bar down and Alen Mueller uses two styrene straps ran over the throw bar. (Ran from the first tie past the throw to the Headblock) that looks very good. Alen also uses a method for making bridles that looks very promising. But at this Moment I'm stuck doing some re-engineering as the turnout ties I got were not profile ties so they do not match my printed circuit ties or are long enough for the three way I'm building so I need a source of ties or I might just double stack my printed circuit ties. Decisions, decisions... stay tuned for exciting developments.


It's only make-believe

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CBryars2
Crew Chief

Premium Member


Posted - 08/16/2013 :  11:03:11 AM  Show Profile  Visit CBryars2's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Very nicely done.

Beginning to build stub turn-outs and need a three way so learning alot from this discussion.

Do you have the link on the stub stop you mentioned?

Thanks Cameron



Country: USA | Posts: 775 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/16/2013 :  11:10:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Cameron,
Links; Well, Dodges material was in the April, 2001 Model Railroader. I don't have permission to share it's contents.


Oops, How did that happen? A picture from the article just popped in.

Alan's work can be found here;
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Civil_War_RRs/files/

look for;
ThrowBar.doc and Stub bridles1.doc

You might have to join the Civil War RRs yahoo group to get access.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2013 :  07:39:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
There is slow progress being made;


sanding is next. (I think)


It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 08/27/2013 07:43:12 AM

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 08/27/2013 :  09:56:08 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I don't have any experience with stub turnouts or PCB ties, but I have done quite a lot of handlaying. To my eye, it looks like you will have a tough time aligning the 3-way in the upper right corner of the picture with the curve drawn on the roadbed. This may also apply to the curved leg of the turnout below it.


Country: USA | Posts: 5564 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2013 :  1:47:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jbvb

I don't have any experience with stub turnouts or PCB ties, but I have done quite a lot of handlaying. To my eye, it looks like you will have a tough time aligning the 3-way in the upper right corner of the picture with the curve drawn on the roadbed. This may also apply to the curved leg of the turnout below it.



Thank you, I'll double check things.


It's only make-believe

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