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Author Previous Topic: Promised Update... Topic Next Topic: Small Layout Design Help/Challenge - c.1905 Pennsy
Page: of 94

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/26/2016 :  10:42:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking forward to the "Dayton," it will be very interesting to see how you approach this kit.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7169 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 03/28/2016 :  07:13:10 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, will be great seeing your build and I hope I can pickup some ideas.

Remember to wash the 3D printed parts (except the roof which is printed in another material) thoroughly so the waxy residue is removed.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1669 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 03/28/2016 :  1:09:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Guys, I hope I can meet your expectations. I hope my car will be able to stand next to Håkan's and John's build.
I appreciate their willingness to share their skills with me and a 2nd thanks to Håkan for making the investment of time and money so this kit is available.
I started this morning by starting the bath of the 3D parts in Alcohol with a drop of dish washing soap added. They will spend a day there.
I also gave the roof it's first coat of primer, Walmart Gray. Before painting the roof I carefully removed any of the cotton packing material that got caught on it.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 03/28/2016 :  3:49:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
BEFORE I continue with my build let me share some photos of this kit which uses 3D printed parts, laser cut wood and etched brass sides plus Misc. plastic and metal parts. check it out!


Sharp isn't it.

Now my build. I ran down to Home Depot and got some fresh epoxy. The type that take 20minutes to set. (Loctite Metal/Concrete)a 3m 180 grit sanding pad and some ACC Thin and super Gel (Gorilla).
Getting home I primed the inside of the roof. Setting it aside to dry I removed the brass floor piece from the sheet. The instruction ask you to bend the edge strips down. I have been fearing this step but it went very smoothly. I held the piece first at 90 deg to my work surface and then tilted the top about 30 deg. away from me while holding the piece low- close to the bend, I push down and the edge bent smoothly. I then took a metal ruler and slid it on floor against the new flange yo make sure it was straight. I did the same on the other side of the floor. I then Epoxied in the wood sub floor. Hagan's instructions say weight it until is sets but I used cloth pins .
I then added a 2nd coat of primer to the roof.





It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/28/2016 :  4:02:55 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very cool! I've seen some great 'composite/hybrid' kits, including OO9 (although I'm using them in HOn30) side dump kits. Those have cast metal, cast resin, and etched brass parts.

'fresh epoxy' is probably a good idea.

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7169 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 03/30/2016 :  02:05:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Progress was slower a bit as my Honey went to Ikea and brought three big boxs home and you know the rest of the story.....

But tonight I did get some more done on the car,


I've deviated from the instructions again in that I finished everything on the bottom side before adding the hand rails and brake wheel to the platforms. Sharp eyes will notice that I forgot to add the turn buckles to the truss rods. I'm going to have to figure out a way to add them. In my defense the CBNWV RR does not use turnbuckles yet on any of its rolling stock so I didn't think of including them. A more careful reading of the instructions would of helped too.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page

deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 03/30/2016 :  11:20:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, if you sliced a Grandt/Tichy turnbuckle casting in half, could you then glue them back onto the mono, or even just glue 1/2 of the turnbuckle?

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

Country: USA | Posts: 7169 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 03/30/2016 :  12:31:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Dave,
Similarly I sanded two in half and from the side they look fine from 3";


I also took the slight bow in the floor out.

Download Attachment: PICT2273.JPG
157.83 KB


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 03/30/2016 :  12:52:36 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bob,

Good save on the turnbuckles.

The floor looks better without the bow. I've sometimes introduced a bow installing truss rods in styrene floors. Truss rods really do the job they were meant to do. Doesn't happen with stripwood because the sills are stuff and remain straight, unlike styrene.

Everything is looking good.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 4126 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 03/30/2016 :  12:53:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, your passenger car build is fascinating. I'm going to learning some things watching you.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 14618 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 03/30/2016 :  3:56:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good Bob


Country: Sweden | Posts: 1669 Go to Top of Page

CavalryTrooper25
Crew Chief

Posted - 03/30/2016 :  10:45:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Very interesting. Looking forward to the next installment.

Horse




Country: | Posts: 509 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 03/31/2016 :  01:08:17 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Guys.
One of the nice extras that came with this kit are the extra platform end railing, brake wheel and couple (baker) levers that Hagan used to fill up the unused space on the brass sheets. Enough for 7 more cars. There is only one other supplier of these that I know of and that is Cal-Scale who is now owned by Bowser. They are now asking over $20. for a pair of their casting so these extra parts are a great help in building our car fleet.
This Pullman will be used on CB&WV's boat train which is timed to meet the "up" boat on Tuesday and the "down" boat on Friday. We offer Pullman service over our road and the Oregon and California (which so far goes as south as Roseburg Or. which will save the traveler a day and treat him to some spectacular wilderness scenery (until the loggers get there). My railroad will offer a daily express to Roseburg from Coos Bay and 3rd class passage on freight trains.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 03/31/2016 :  06:51:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bob, good solution for the turnbuckles. This is a very impressive kit and build.


Country: USA | Posts: 2340 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 04/02/2016 :  01:07:20 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, Thank you.
Had time to prime the bottom;


and I cleaned up the platform railings


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4726 Go to Top of Page
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