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Author Previous Topic: Promised Update... Topic Next Topic: Early Railroad Equipment into the 50s
Page: of 87

acousticco
Fireman



Posted - 08/21/2016 :  2:06:23 PM  Show Profile  Visit acousticco's Homepage  Reply with Quote
As usual Håkan, fine, fine work!

-Cody



Country: Canada | Posts: 1672 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/21/2016 :  2:14:14 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Baldwin "Wine" lake looks right one to me. That formula is a HUGHLY helpful contribution, Thank you. The cab just needs an oak stain applied. Try it on a piece of scrap first. Drivers can be black or red. What did you use for the Russia Iron? Are you painting the brass brass or gold?

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/21/2016 :  3:09:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Your paint work looks good, Håkan. What is the purpose of the yellow tape on the axles?

George



Country: USA | Posts: 14463 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 08/21/2016 :  3:30:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Cody, Bob and George!

Bob, I'm thinking of giving it a stain with very diluted burnt umber as the surface today is too "dead" for my liking. But as you say I'll try it on a scrap piece first. Will take some experimenting.
I'll think I'll keep the drivers Lake. The Sonoma has them in Lake color see link below.
http://www.pacificng.com/ref/locobuilders/blw/style/img/image28.jpg

For the russian iron I use the trusty Testor Metalizer gun metal (2 parts) and Stainless steel (1 part)
I'm painting the brass using Vallejos brass color.

George, no purpose. In the beginning I was thinking on giving the wheelsets a coat of black primer so I taped the axles where the pickup is. But I changed my mind and now they can be used to hold the wheelset during painting.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1642 Go to Top of Page

BlairM
Section Hand

Posted - 08/21/2016 :  8:42:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a journey, I don't envy your position of needing to replace the drivers with special new ones, sounds pricey!

The paint job is coming along nicely, I love the roster similarities you have with the Russia iron and rich colors.

I look forward to seeing how you treat the cab, I hope to repeat the same treatment on my cabs.

Blair



Edited by - BlairM on 08/21/2016 8:43:01 PM

Country: | Posts: 86 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 08/26/2016 :  04:24:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Blair. I was in luck the drivers was not that costly. They cost about $10 dollars a pair.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1642 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2016 :  5:59:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi Guys,
I have tried to make the cab look more like it is made of oak wood using various washes and drybrushing. I had an old Bachmann cab with many layers of paint on it which I experimented. The wash that won was a thin mix of Vallejo Brown and water with a touch of detergent to ease the flow. I applied various layers of this letting it dry between. After they had dried I used a Q-tip to rub the surface getting rid of deposits of pigment. After that I drybrushed the surface with a lighter version of the Vallejo brown sand. Give me your worst!



Here is photo of the Eureka to compare.


I also tested the decals after an ordeal getting the old ALPS to behave. I tested by applying the sunburst pattern to one of the drivers. When applying such a decal I take the whole cutout decal and apply it. I don't cut it in pieces and apply it a piece at a time. Instead when the decal has dried I cut open the decal between the spokes and using my decal softening solution the excess decal film "disappears" inside between the spokes. This method saves much time.



To be continued.........
Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1642 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2016 :  6:10:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Håkan,

You definitely captured the look of wood. It reminds me of the light finishes on Eastlake furniture of the time and looks a lot like the restored Eureka. I don't know for certain if that is appropriate for your period, but it looks right to me. If the Eureka restoration is an accurate one then I say your model is spot on.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Edited by - Michael Hohn on 08/27/2016 6:22:55 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 3770 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/27/2016 :  10:13:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Håkan, The Cab Looks really good. Notice that on the "Eureka"s Cab that the letter oval and the roof line have a darker finish.
The sun burst driver decal is great.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4570 Go to Top of Page

Bill Gill
Fireman



Posted - 08/28/2016 :  07:34:34 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Håkan, The oak cab looks like a good match for the Eureka. Would it have a somewhat glossy varnish finish to protect the raw wood? The decal on the driver is terrific.


Country: USA | Posts: 2209 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 08/28/2016 :  09:09:58 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Håkan,

I think you are also close to the finish on the cab of the Sonoma in photos I've seen from the California State Railroad Museum. The narrow gauge Jupiter in the Smithsonian Insitution has a darker colored cab, perhaps a darker oak or a lightly-finished walnut.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3770 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 08/28/2016 :  11:15:31 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks fantastic, Hakan. You nailed the tint and look of the Eureka's cab. The sunburst decal and it's application is a stroke of genius! Are you going to go for a "varnished" look on the wood cab?

Andre



Country: | Posts: 402 Go to Top of Page

CavalryTrooper25
Crew Chief

Posted - 08/29/2016 :  09:16:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by masonamerican

Hi Guys,
I have tried to make the cab look more like it is made of oak wood using various washes and drybrushing. I had an old Bachmann cab with many layers of paint on it which I experimented. The wash that won was a thin mix of Vallejo Brown and water with a touch of detergent to ease the flow. I applied various layers of this letting it dry between. After they had dried I used a Q-tip to rub the surface getting rid of deposits of pigment. After that I drybrushed the surface with a lighter version of the Vallejo brown sand. Give me your worst!



Here is photo of the Eureka to compare.


I also tested the decals after an ordeal getting the old ALPS to behave. I tested by applying the sunburst pattern to one of the drivers. When applying such a decal I take the whole cutout decal and apply it. I don't cut it in pieces and apply it a piece at a time. Instead when the decal has dried I cut open the decal between the spokes and using my decal softening solution the excess decal film "disappears" inside between the spokes. This method saves much time.



To be continued.........
Håkan




Håkan;

Please describe in greater detail your process of decaling the stripped drives, as I have bolloxed many a decal trying to do it on my locos. Also, the ingredients/ratios of your softening solution would be appreciated.

Horse






Country: | Posts: 509 Go to Top of Page

George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 08/29/2016 :  11:53:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Håkan, it looks to me that you have the cab paint right.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 14463 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 08/29/2016 :  2:28:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Many thanks Mike, Bob, Bill, Andre, Horse and George ! Thanks for your comments and I’m happy you like both the cab and the decal.

Mike, I have watched many photos of the Eureka and the Sonoma but as I have not seen them myself it’s an interpretation of the photos I have seen that all are taken in different lights and different camera settings. So I’m happy my colors came close to the Sonoma as you saw it in real life. The Jupiter I need to google

Bill, not sure yet. I think I give it a satin finish as the gloss varnish I use is way to glossy. Or mix them. We will see.

Thanks Bob, for pointing out the darker parts. I’ll try to duplicate that on the real cab without botching the other paint.

Thanks Andre, here is a photo after the decal have been cut and the first application of the decal softening solution.



Thanks Horse, the application I use is:
-I cut out the decal as close to the pattern as I can.
-With a pair of tweezers I dip the decal in distilled water. Letting it soak until the decal will let go from the backing paper.
-I put the decal with backing paper over the surface where it will be situated. Using tweezers I pull away the backing paper at the same time holding the decal with a clean brush (size abt no 2-3)
-After the backing paper is removed I use a brush or a sharp Xacto knife to center the decal. I add liberal with distilled water to help the movement of the decal to the right place.
-Then I let it dry for 24hrs.
-After it has dried I carefully cut open the excess decal film between the spokes. If everything looks alright I put on a liberal amount of Badgers decal softening solution. I prefer that one over Microscales as it much stronger. Then I leave the decal alone. It can look awful at this stage but just let it dry a couple of hours and it will adhere snugly to the surface. Ok well not always. Sometimes I have to use up to 3 applications and also some prodding/cutting open of air deposits.
-Last is sealing the decal with a varnish. I usually use Vallejos satin one.

Håkan



Edited by - masonamerican on 08/29/2016 2:30:37 PM

Country: Sweden | Posts: 1642 Go to Top of Page
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