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Author Previous Topic: Projects in Progress on the Southern Central RR Topic Next Topic: Promised Update...
Page: of 89

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2016 :  7:56:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bob, its a 3D printed roof similar to the one on the Dayton. The clerestory sides are lasercut as is the window frames. On one side the frames came out little askew though. Funny how photos reveal stuff I missed when building. I guess I'm getting old:-)

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/05/2016 :  8:00:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by OK Hogger

Looks great, Hakan!

While I'm thinking about it: What code/size rail are you using? What brand?



I'm using Micro Engineering flex track code 70 and 55. The turnouts are no 5 and 6 made using Fast tracks jigs.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 07/05/2016 :  9:20:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Hakan.

I too, will be using code 70. Haven't decided whether to use any code 55 yet. Have in the past... don't know if I want to again. Current plans are to use reworked Shinohara switches (turnouts). However, I may need to take a look at Fast Tracks jigs. It may save time in the long run to just build my own via Fast Tracks jigs instead of fixing Shinohara switches. I only anticipate about 20 switches being used on the layout... but I may be surprised once the track plan is fully developed. We shall see!




Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/06/2016 :  12:10:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

I'm sorry Håkan, It's time. Time for a new series of panorama shots. You must do this.


It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4690 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/19/2016 :  04:58:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
They are coming Bob!

In the meantime I have been working on my new Baldwin. The history is that I dropped one of the new Bachmanns in the floor and messed up the drivers. I tried Bachmanns service dept. to buy new drivers but no luck there. So I had to resort buying new drivers from a dealer here in Sweden. They are manufactured in Great Britain and are self quartering. As they have 1/8” axles I had to slightly mill the axle bearings on the Bachmann frame to accompany the new axles. I also had to use some bushings to be able to use the Bachmann side rods. The clearance of the bushings were very tight in the side rods holes so the holes where reamed to loosen things up a little. I also changed the pilot wheels to new spoked ones bought from the same dealer.




Well I got the mechanism to run great so the next problem was pulling power. As the stock Bachmann has traction tires and the new drivers haven’t I had to add weight. As much as possible. I substituted the weights in the cab with new ones made of lead.


I also added a lead weight to the cab roof and lead (and tungsten) to everywhere possible. I had a new 3D printed smokestack and pilot and I even thought to change those to brass ones to add weight. That would be possible to do as Harold has pointed out before that with the weight in the cab a brass pilot and stack the mechanism would balance. But as I already had mounted the pilot and liked the smokestack I have tried to add more weight instead. As it is now it can pull 3 passenger cars up my 2% grade which is one less then my average 4-4-0 but it have to suffice.

Well to make things worse the sound decoder in the tender gave out. So I had to either use another tender or mount a new sound decoder in the tender. I had a Wowsound decoder and a Soundtraxx Econami in waiting. I went for the Wow sound as it has such great sound. To fit it I had to remove everything in the tender and remove the wood load on the tender shell. I used a sugarcube speaker from Zimo. To add some new weight I added lead both to the tender floor and to the shell.
I tested the Wow sound decoder with the mechanism and one could say many things but none of them Wow. The sound is great but in the lowest speed steps the BEMF makes the loco stutter. And there is now way to adjust the motor control. So I removed the Wow sound and substituted it for the Econami which has adjustable motor control. With that decoder and some adjustment the loco once again ran great.
Here is a photo of the tender with the Econami in place. As the picture shows with the Econami one dosen't have to remove the woodload.


I also added more pickup to the tender. It was fairly simple but not for the faint hearted as it involves soldering on the plastic trucks. One have to be quick with the iron and using a sharp tip. Its quite simply a piece of phosphor bronze rod .008 fitted by drilling two holes through the truck beam. I then drilled another hole for the wire. I pre tinned both the rod and the wire and with them in place soldered them together. I then sealed them by applying a drop of thick ACC. The rod was then bent to touch the wheels with a light pressure. The trucks came out very free rolling with this arrangement. The wires was then fed through the tender floor. I also changed the tender wheels to larger ones 28” in diameter.





Well after all this work the idea is to give it the look from the Baldwin drawing below. I also removed the injector pipe on the boiler shell and made new printed injector pumps. I also deviated by using another type of smokestack.



To be continued.......
Håkan



Edited by - masonamerican on 07/19/2016 05:05:59 AM

Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 07/19/2016 :  12:48:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'll say Wow! Very important trailblazing information here. It certainly very important to know which decoders work and which don't. Is that a keep alive in the tender? The engine is looking Good, very good.

Looking foward to part two.


It's only make-believe

Edited by - railman28 on 07/19/2016 12:50:09 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 4690 Go to Top of Page

jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/19/2016 :  2:25:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Nice work! Did you use normal or low-temp (Tix, for instance) solder on the wire-to-rod joint?


Country: USA | Posts: 5622 Go to Top of Page

OK Hogger
Engine Wiper

Posted - 07/19/2016 :  4:54:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looking very, very nice, Hakan. I will be watching this very closely, and, I'm sure I'll be pestering you with questions!

Andre



Country: | Posts: 414 Go to Top of Page

Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 07/20/2016 :  12:24:20 AM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Håkan,

Elegant solution to the pickup problem. I think it would require me to buy a new tip for my soldering iron.

Mike


_______________________________________________________________________________________________
Nobody living can ever stop me, as I go walking that freedom highway -- Woody Guthrie

Country: USA | Posts: 3951 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/20/2016 :  02:40:57 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Guys!

Bob its a Soundtraxx Current keeper.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/access/wiring.php
It provides about 10 sec of power.

The solder I used was normal electronic one with flux. I forgot to say that after soldering I washed the truck under the sink to get rid of any flux residue. I have my soldering iron on the highest temperature 450 degC which helps reduce the time to heat the solder. It only takes about a second to solder the joint which isn't enough to do any damage to the plastic truck.

Just pester away Andre. I'm happy if I can help. I has been a long journey on this one but I hate to have something broken on the shelf.

Next is to assemble it and start painting.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page

Tom Coletti
Engine Wiper



Posted - 07/20/2016 :  03:38:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The new crosshead pumps and check valves look much better than the stock piping molded into the boiler. Can't wait to see her finished!


Country: | Posts: 146 Go to Top of Page

Gloucesterman
New Hire

Posted - 07/20/2016 :  3:04:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Can you tell us the source of the new pump?

Frank



Country: | Posts: 39 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 07/20/2016 :  5:13:40 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Tom! I hope I won't disappoint.

Frank, the pump is of my own design and printed at Shapeways.

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 08/20/2016 :  11:50:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I'm just bumping, because this tread should be on top.

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4690 Go to Top of Page

masonamerican
Fireman



Posted - 08/21/2016 :  1:32:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Bob for the push!

I have not been totally inactive between changing diapers.
I have started on the painting phase on the Bachmann. As the locomotive will look similar to the Eureka and Sonoma narrow gauge Baldwins I had to find a color that looked similar to the Lake color they are painted in. It is a reddish brown and after trying various mixes I came up with the following recipe:
4 parts Vallejo mahogany brown
4 parts Vallejo black
5 parts Vallejo carmine red

This looks good in my eyes anyway. I didn’t make it as dark as it then looks better under the layout lights. For the oak cab I had trouble finding a paint resembling it. After some testing I settled for Vallejo sand brown which looks quite similar to varnished oak which can come in many variations from quite yellowish to darker brown.

On the tender and cab I scraped off the handles and substituted with 0.008 wire instead. As I also by mistake took away the wood load I made a new tender top from styrene. Any “leaks” I filled with putty. It doesn’t look much at this point but it all will be covered by the new wood load.




Here are some photos of the cab, boiler and tender after painting.




The removal of the pipe didn’t come out perfectly but I hope to somewhat disguise it with a dark wash when later on weathering.

After examining photos of the Eureka and the Sonoma on how the wheels are painted I surmised that they were painted the lake color with the wheel rims on the tender and pilot wheels painted white. The drivers are unpainted but I decided to paint these white as well as the engine otherwise would look strange. When painting the wheels I first took some very fine sandpaper grit 400 or over and lightly sanded the outside of the wheel rims, se the photo below.



This to help the paint to adhere. I then cleaned them with a Q- tip using denatured alcohol. After that I brush painted on the lake color being careful to not get any build up on the rims. On the drivers I puttied over the holes after the axle screws before I painted them. After I was satisfied with the coats I then painted the rim using a brush and Vallejo white.
To avoid getting paint on the already painted surface I diluted the white paint to the consistency of drinking yoghurt. The main thing is not to get it too free flowing. I then take some of this on the brush and then lightly painting it on by touching the side of the brush to the rim and following it along around the wheel. It takes some applications before the coating is uniform and thick enough. After the paint is dry I apply two coats of Vallejos satin varnish to seal it. On surfaces that will get decals I put on a gloss coat. The paint that has come on the wheel surface is cleaned away using a Q-tip and some solvent. This also helps getting a nice even border between the outer rim and the wheel surface.

When finished the wheels looks like in the photo below. They are ready for decals.



Thats all for now. To be continued..........

Håkan



Country: Sweden | Posts: 1664 Go to Top of Page
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