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masonamerican
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Posted - 09/12/2015 : 6:11:08 PM
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Thanks Martin, Frederic and Jerry!
quote: I liked the part where we got to blow stuff up the best!!
Now you are talking
Thanks for the suggestion Horse on the Ebay item. I have been thinking on something like that but at the moment it feels a little too large for my small operation. I'm thinking on using only a log ramp into the water and screw jacks to get the logs rolling.
Here are some photos on how it looks at the moment. I'm laying tracks an have made a test module to see what colors to use for the pond base. The water (Fallers brand not epoxy at this time)is freshly poured so it looks kinda cloudy at the moment. The favorite colors are black for the deeper parts. For the shallow parts I'll use raw umber mixed with a touch of white to lighten it together with some sporadic sap green to suggest underwater growth. I'll also mix in some brown in the water before I'll pour it.
 The pond on the left is all black and raw umber, strangely it looks quite blue on my computer screen. I also mixed in too much brown on the other ones.
 I added a low retaining wall to keep rocks and debris from the stream outlet. The are is freshly sceniced hence the wet look.
 The scenery around the pond takes shape. Lot of greenery missing still.
Håkan
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Country: Sweden
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railman28
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Posted - 09/13/2015 : 12:07:50 PM
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The pond on the left looks blue on my screen too. Being there is some color distortion here it is hard to judge the pounds, but as seen on my screen, the center is pond is a good log pound color. At least to me. I do like the tunnel. It is taking shape nicely. I'm sure your bridge crews are out and on the way to fill that gap there.
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 09/13/2015 : 1:29:54 PM
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You'll often see algae blooms on ponds. So after you get the 'water' poured, you can try putting some slimy green patches on it. (Test with a watercolor first, to make sure you like it. Then if you're happy with it, you can do the permanent paint with an acrylic, or pour a very light coating of 'water' to seal the watercolor.)
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7319 |
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masonamerican
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Posted - 09/13/2015 : 3:25:47 PM
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Thanks Bob, the colors changed slightly as the water dried. Today I evaluated them and concluded that I had to much brown in it. I didn't particularly like the tone either so I have now used raw umber instead which looks better. I dared to paint the pond surface today with earth colors at the shore trying to get the feeling of mountain side below the water. The deep part I painted black. The idea is to put on the first layer with some raw umber mixed in. After that is poured I'll add some debris, leaves etc. to the water. I'll then let it dry completely and then I add the half logs. I think I try Daves (Thanks!) suggestion before I pour the final layer. If there isn't enough brown in the water after the first pour I'll add some more in the final. I'll hope and see if this works .
The track laying was completed today waiting for dry brushing and then ballast. I also embedded the sawmill in scultamold.
And the bridge team is on its way! In the mean time they are using up a lot of torpedoes
Håkan

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Country: Sweden
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CavalryTrooper25
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Posted - 09/13/2015 : 4:48:47 PM
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Håkan
You could consider using a jill poke for unloading your logs.

Much easier, and more appropriate for the size/scale of your mill.
Horse
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Ensign
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Posted - 09/13/2015 : 5:29:24 PM
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Håkan, your lumber mill scene is really taking shape quite nicely. Keep up the great work you do.
Greg Shinnie
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Country: Canada
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LynnB
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 09/14/2015 : 12:23:25 AM
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The scene is really coming together nicely.
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Country: Canada
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jbvb
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 09/14/2015 : 12:29:22 AM
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When I pour a body of HO scale water, I paint the bottom first. I forget if I got the idea out of a book or a magazine, but it give you a lot more scope to get the color right without making an all-or-nothing commitment by tinting the material to be poured. I pour epoxy in several layers, so I can make minor adjustments by tinting the last or next-to-last layer.
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Country: USA
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railman28
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Posted - 09/14/2015 : 12:39:39 AM
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Håkan,That pond coloring looks good. Sticking to your plan should produce good results. (I think).
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It's only make-believe
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Country: USA
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masonamerican
Fireman
   

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Posted - 09/15/2015 : 2:14:13 PM
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Many thanks Horse, that jill poke looks great! I have seen others but they have looked a little large. This one looks quite appropriate for the job.
Thanks for the encouraging words Greg, Lynn and Bob! I have to admit I'm a little scared doing the actual pour but I do as James suggested and do it in several pours. But I have lots of work still until I can pour. To be continued.....
Håkan
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Country: Sweden
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CavalryTrooper25
Crew Chief
  
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Posted - 09/17/2015 : 9:57:13 PM
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quote: Originally posted by masonamerican
Many thanks Horse, that jill poke looks great! I have seen others but they have looked a little large. This one looks quite appropriate for the job.
Håkan
The one in the picture looks like it wouldn't be that difficult to scratch build using commonly available styrene shapes, etc. The only difficult item might be the actual toothed head, but your a smart guy, you will no doubt come up with something .
Horse
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deemery
Fireman
   
Premium Member

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Posted - 09/18/2015 : 10:05:53 AM
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Someone, maybe Keystone, made a Jill Poke kit.
dave
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Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to) |
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Country: USA
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masonamerican
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Posted - 09/22/2015 : 12:09:08 AM
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Thanks for the suggestion Dave. And thanks Horse, I like the look of the one in the photo but the Keystone one is rtr. I have to think about it. When I saw the one in the photo my first idea was to draw it in Sketchup and have it printed.
Håkan
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Country: Sweden
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CavalryTrooper25
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Posted - 09/26/2015 : 10:48:23 AM
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Håkan;
Here is an item you may wish to emulate. eBay item number:331662366300
Horse
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masonamerican
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Posted - 09/27/2015 : 4:13:12 PM
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Thanks Horse, that I have to consider. I'm running out of space quickly :-) I have worked on the area around pond and made the unloading ramp. I have been experimenting with the epoxy and tried coloring it with ordinary acrylic paint. It worked but I got a slightly ruffled surface. I had a lot of bubbles in the mix but got rid of them with a small propane torch. Could be some chemical reaction with the acrylic perhaps. But the great part is that the sligtly ruffled surface lookd quite good. It looked like as if the wind had made some small creases on it.
Håkan
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Country: Sweden
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