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 SierraWest - #305 O Scale Wood Cutters Shack
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Author Previous Topic: SierraWest - Mill Engine & Boiler House Topic Next Topic: scratch building the idaho hotel in o scale
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UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  3:36:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
No problem... post the results.

Karl.A



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Frederic Testard
Engineer

Premium Member


Posted - 02/11/2011 :  5:32:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tutorial, Karl. It's interesting to see how a small amount of black chalk can darken the wood when correctly wiped.



Edited by - Frederic Testard on 02/11/2011 5:32:56 PM

Country: France | Posts: 17652 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  6:51:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
You're welcome Frederic. The black is a very intense colour.

The corners, trim and doors do actually match the siding, cant get an accurate pic though...





Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 6293 Go to Top of Page

UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  7:00:34 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Slightly better.....



Karl.A



Edited by - UKGuy on 02/11/2011 7:02:17 PM

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visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  7:24:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Karl,
This looks really good, the tone and texture is really good too. Did I miss something in your conversation or Bretts instructions on the numbering/color you mentioned in the last page? I understand the technique, I am not sure my bragadon chalks have a number.

Les



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UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  7:38:06 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks very much Les.

These are "Rembrandt" soft pastel colour numbers Les. Available at art supply stores or online at Dickblick.



Karl.A



Edited by - UKGuy on 02/11/2011 7:52:16 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6293 Go to Top of Page

visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/11/2011 :  7:57:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Karl,
Thanks a bunch...got it now..

Les



Country: USA | Posts: 6031 Go to Top of Page

visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  3:41:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Karl,
Update on my side of the pond, while I have many bragadon colors, I took the manual with key code numbers and found all of the "suggested" colors in Rembrant, with that done, I watched bretts technique for coloring..got that I have done that too. Someone mentioned earlier about fixing with something, I am just going to use alcholo as the flow material, do I need to fix these chalks?

Les



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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2011 :  4:16:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Les,
Not to jump in for Karl here, but just a FYI on fixing the chalks. In the Tool Shed build I used pastel chalks (like these) and only ETOH (Alcohol) to fix the chalk with the ETOH as the "flow" material. I have had the Tool Shed at 4 public train shows and it has been handled by well over 500 people, of that I'm sure. Only a very, very tiny bit of chalk came off way back when, but the chalks have stayed in place through all of this wear and tear. I am, quite frankly, very surprised by this. I happened to note in a PM to Karl yesterday that his use of the steel wool probably mimics the handling my structure has seen. And the really interesting thing is that the structure looks better now than when it was fresh out of the shop, at least IMO.

So... to answer your question, from my experience, it is not really necessary to fix the chalks with a fixative. However, if you do, I would suggest that you avoid DullCoat and use an artist pastel spray fixative. Art stores have cans of a spray fixative designed for use with these chalks. There are several mfg's, so I can't recommend any specific brand. I will say that my Blair brand lost it's pressure as I had it stored for over 5 years, and when I went to spray the Tool Shed the can was dead, so the Tool Shed never got sprayed and I never have gotten around to buying another can. Not sure now if I ever will....


-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Edited by - hon3_rr on 02/12/2011 4:20:13 PM

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visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  4:23:25 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Kp,
Well with an embarrased look on my face I didnt know what ETOH was...I have used alcohol and chalks in slurry form, and on this kind of technique, I wasnt sure I was missing something. I don't like to "fix" things or even "seal" them. I am good for this technique, it produces some really nice colors. I don't normally follow instructions well, I skim instead of read, do what is interesting and fall back onto techniques I have used before. So I am really trying to follow along with you all and learn some new tricks here...thanks for the follow up.

Les



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UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  6:07:56 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Washing the PASTELS in with alcohol creates a stain, this stains the wood and no fixative is needed.
Infact I stained some stripwood using this method on a plastic cutting board in the hotel when I was away recently and could not remove the colouring from the hotel cutting board I used as a work base (still waiting for the invoice on that from the hotel)

The effects of the steel wool are specifically to remove, lighten the colouring and polish the wood. Simple handling will not replicate this, handling will blend and mute the chalks contrasts if over done in time.
The steel wool is a separate method for a distinct effect, excessive handling simply blends, eventually. Any colour changes would be due to, grease/grime/unclean hands.

So, in answer, no fixative is needed.

Karl.A



Country: USA | Posts: 6293 Go to Top of Page

visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  6:25:45 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Karl,
Thanks, I am working on sticks now, this project will be my taking a break project, I am home this week, traveling to Seattle for a week, home for 3 traveling to California for 1 week, then home for 3. I may take this project with me..along with specific tools.

Les



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hon3_rr
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 02/12/2011 :  7:23:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good thought on the oils from the hands.. Something I had not even considered, but I'm sure you are correct. Kind of one of the "duh" things which I should have thought about. Now... how long will the coloring on my structure last??? Maybe I need to rethink the spray fixative for this particular structure as it is seeing a lot of life as a teaching tool.

-- KP --
Life is to short to build all of the models I want to.

Country: USA | Posts: 7237 Go to Top of Page

visman48
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  7:37:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit visman48's Homepage  Click to see visman48's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Karl and KP,
Another issue to consider in your weathering method is sunlight..aka bleaching. Gerry Cornwall from Mt Albert suggested A/I staining, and dusting, then letting wood dry out in the sun...and indeed it works, assuming you have sun light.

Les



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UKGuy
Fireman



Posted - 02/12/2011 :  7:48:07 PM  Show Profile  Visit UKGuy's Homepage  Send UKGuy a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Or, just dont leave the model out in direct sunlight.

Direct sunlight will fade alot of things...... carpet, curtains, fabric covered furniture, stained wood furniture, to name a few.... I guess thats why we try to replicate "sun-bleached" wood.
Just dont spend 100 hours building it and then leave it on the window ledge for display is my advice.

Karl.A



Edited by - UKGuy on 02/12/2011 7:52:38 PM

Country: USA | Posts: 6293 Go to Top of Page
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