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Geezer
Engineer
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Posted - 04/23/2011 : 05:54:25 AM
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Thanks Marty....I will practice, practice and practice
with the camera....;-)
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Country: USA
| Posts: 12973 |
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OregonOn30
Crew Chief
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 Posted - 04/23/2011 : 11:10:41 AM
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Geezer
Great finish to the project, and nice pics as well. I like your shading of all the details. Nice color!
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Country: USA
| Posts: 826 |
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Philip
Fireman
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Posted - 04/23/2011 : 12:25:50 PM
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Real nice job Geezer! OMG, a whisky jug at hands reach in Brooklyn....
Snookered
Philip
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Country: USA
| Posts: 3430 |
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sierrawest
Engine Wiper
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Posted - 04/23/2011 : 12:37:05 PM
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Looks great Bill!
Brett
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Country:
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UKGuy
Fireman
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Posted - 04/23/2011 : 4:11:58 PM
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Nice pictures of a great diorama Bill. Very nice work.
I really like the oldy/worldy pics too. Atmospheric indeed.
Karl.A
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6292 |
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Geezer
Engineer
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Posted - 04/24/2011 : 06:31:09 AM
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Thanks Nick, Philip, Brett & Rick....
Need to see what the budget will allow....
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Country: USA
| Posts: 12973 |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/26/2011 : 6:06:30 PM
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Bill, about the camera.
First you generally don't need a tripod as long as you can put the camera on some support in front of the scene you are shooting. I even do it on the layout, sometimes even on others', even if they feel a bit nervous when I politely ask to do that. I haven't broken or made fall anything up to now.
Concerning the settings : you'll probably have the more pleasure using the manual mode, with the minimum ISO, the minimum diaphragm aperture (which means fmax, the value depends on the cameras, on a reflex it must be somewhere between f22 and f32), the use of the delayer to avoid any unwanted move, and a manual setting of the speed to have the correct lighting. This plus a manual control of the focused area (you generally can move the place where the autofocus tries to focus) and you'll be happy almost every time.
Finally, you can use the camera or a post-processing software to have a good balance of white.
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Edited by - Frederic Testard on 04/26/2011 6:07:36 PM |
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Country: France
| Posts: 17652 |
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UKGuy
Fireman
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Posted - 04/26/2011 : 9:46:06 PM
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Easiest/quickest way to get a good focus throughout something as small as this (or most other) diorama's is to step back two feet from the model.
Increase the picture resolution in the camera from 2mp(or whatever you have it set on) to about 5mp or 7mp.
Take the shot with all the surrounding irrelevance in frame and then crop the image down to just what you want to show.
Using one of the free picture editing programs available 'online'.
Karl.A
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6292 |
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Geezer
Engineer
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Posted - 04/27/2011 : 5:58:19 PM
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OK Frederic & Karl....Thanks a bunch for the info,
and instructions....I will take a few more shots tomorrow
and play with the manual settings to see how I do. I did
notice on my cameram, there is a "AE" setting, and from
what I get out of the manual, this sets the DOF automatically.
But, I will deffinately try using "smaller F stops" or do
I have it backwards? Bigger Fstop # = smaller apperture?
I have the ISO down to 200 - should I go to 100?
Thanks for all the encouragement and help!!!!
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Country: USA
| Posts: 12973 |
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Frederic Testard
Engineer
Premium Member
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Posted - 04/27/2011 : 6:12:51 PM
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Bigger fstop = smaller aperture. That's what you must choose in most cases.
The lower the ISO the best the grain. If you can go below 100 do it. And don't forget that small aperture + low iso = long exposure time. You have a visual hint on the screen of the right time for a normal lit picture (on my canon there's a central position corresponding to normal light, if the arrow is below you're underlit, over you're overlit).
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Country: France
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Martin Welberg
Fireman
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Posted - 04/27/2011 : 6:13:13 PM
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Got that right Bill, the bigger the number the smaller the apperture. If I'm right you have a wheel on top of the camera with some symbols and P, S, A and M. The P should be green, easy going camera sets it all. With the S you can manual control your shutterspeed, A stands for manual apperture control, and in M for manual you can do them both. Should be another small wheel you can reach with your thumb and a small knob (at mine there is) push the knob and turn the wheel in manual mode and you will control apperture, only control the wheel for shutterspeed. I the display on the back you can see what you're doin....
Just fool around a bit with it and have fun, nothing like film to throw away with this digital stuff, guess you already found the delete function.....lol
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Country: Netherlands
| Posts: 6736 |
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Martin Welberg
Fireman
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Posted - 04/27/2011 : 6:25:59 PM
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Sorry Bil it's Av and Tv instead of A and S used to Nikons, and the wheel is on top, the Av +/- button on the back. Works the same only different placed..
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Country: Netherlands
| Posts: 6736 |
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UKGuy
Fireman
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Posted - 05/10/2011 : 10:28:50 PM
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Well, it's been a short while since I made any progress on this great kit, but....
With a recently cleared bench, some free time, no other ongoing projects and some inspiration from Bill (Geezer) I'm gonna jump back into it.
Here's where I left it a month or so ago, lots to do but a good place to pick up from.
I'll certainly be following Kevins thread for the details on this one. I cant imagine a better example to follow.
Karl.A
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6292 |
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UKGuy
Fireman
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Posted - 07/19/2011 : 10:34:59 PM
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Finally got around to finishing the main shingles, still plenty more to do...... as time permits.
Karl.A
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6292 |
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Martin Welberg
Fireman
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Posted - 07/20/2011 : 04:28:00 AM
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Good to see ya back on it Karl, looks good. Got a question about your shingles, looks like handlayed. But having a look at the edges I like to know if you cut them or break them to lenght..thanks in advance...
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Country: Netherlands
| Posts: 6736 |
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