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Author Previous Topic: Louís  Roundhouse 3 in 1 Log/Lumber Cars Topic Next Topic: 1/72 Scale Narrow Gauge Modeling
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DAND
New Hire

Posted - 02/09/2019 :  5:41:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What are you using to primer brass?


Country: USA | Posts: 2 Go to Top of Page

Coaltrain
Fireman

Posted - 02/14/2019 :  10:45:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DAND

What are you using to primer brass?



First thing I do with all Brass is to soak it in a container of Lacquer thinner to strip the clear coat and remove oil and grease. just make sure there is no plastic parts (like insulators) or you could have a mess. then I let them dry really good and use a Badger Air eraser to sand blast them. sand blast in a box to catch and reuse most of the media. Then I blow them off good and wash them in hot soapy water, make sure to get all the media out and they are dust free.

normally at this point I would just airbrush on acrylic black paint, which has always worked well for me and is very tough, however this time I tried something new and sprayed (from a can) automotive etching primer, the brand I like is Dubli-color (sold at auto parts stores). I sprayed it with several light passes at all different angles. after the primer dried for a day or two (or more since I don't have much free time right now) I sprayed on Polly Scale steam power black, thinned with a little model master acrylic thinner.

After the black I sprayed model master acrylic clear gloss (looks milky in the bottle but dries clear). Then I decaled the model, using Walthers solvaset to settle all the decals, and from a can used testors dull coat (lots of light coats). I will never stress enough the need to gloss coat before decals. Also, even if the decals are on a smooth surface (no ribs or rivets) you still have to use a settling solvent to push out the air that creates the silver looking spots in the decal film. To me there is no greater dull coat then the plain old Testors dull coat, either from a spray can or from an airbrush, dries fast and smooth and hides the decal film perfect. use only a new can on models, when a can gets old and splattery use it on scenery (like rock castings painted with acrylic paint).

One of the best kept secrets from model railroaders are military modelers. if you are not looking at military dioramas and models you are missing out on some of the best products. one such product are the AK interactive and Mig weathering washes, they are magic in a bottle. The washes are premixed to be a wash, so there is no guessing to the mix, which means you can be more predictable with the results. they are oil based, which means they dry a little slower and they don't bead on surfaces like acrylic can. Also, to a point you can rework them as long as you don't let them dry too long. The slow drying of the washes mean that it does take several nights to build up the final look, but the slow dry process means that you can blend better and rework it better than acrylic. normally I do one color wash a night, and it only takes a few minutes to apply the wash so it is something I can do when I only have a few minutes in a day.

For this shay I started with a wash of Modern Vehicle washed. I just got a big soft brush and brushed it on everything. I went back with a damp brush to pick up the puddles along the bottom. I also went back after a few minutes with a brush of damp mineral spirits to wash some away from the big surfaces and blend it into the details. I would error on a thinner wash and just do two or three coats over a few days until you're comfortable with the results. The washes look bad until they dry.

The modern Vehicle wash will give that sun bleached black look, which is what you need to weather black. Black is the hardest color to weather because you cant "shadow" black. If the model is black and the shadows are black the locomotive looses all detail and just looks black. the wash is a grayish color and it really looks like sun bleached black. After the wash dries then you can add grime and rust and it will actually show up, and the details will pop back out.

on this model I wanted the look of an old white strip job around the tenders. I decaled on strips and after they dried (before the dull coat) I took a brush and stippled the steam power black over the strips to look like they are chipped and fading, then I dull coated. you'll also notice that I did not add a name yet to the model, I'll show why in the future.

After the vehicle wash I used a color called Track Wash. All the trucks and the frame (except for the top surfaces) were brushed on with track wash. a very think coat of track wash was applied to the top surfaces of the cab and tender and a little on the sides to look like dirt. the track wash is a rusty color and it makes the black get that rust film look that you can see on black painted parts.

other washes I used were Engine oil, which I painted around the rods and truck gears. Engine oil gets this wet oil color when it dries. on the rods it looks like parts that are wet from steam. on the firebox the mix of engine oil over track wash gets that hot fire box look with steam and oil all over the surface. I also used some Mud wash that I flick with a paint brush onto the trucks, frame bottom, and pilots.

I still have a ways to go but here it is so far. all of this was applied over several nights, working just minutes at a time.

Btw, I am still going to post some of the R&S HO stuff here, just give me some time. some of it got damaged, some is just too fragile to ship. I had a person from this forum purchase most of the rolling stock almost 10 years ago, but there are a few pieces left that he did not want that I will post. there are a few locomotives but I want to test them out because it has been a long time since they ran.








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George D
Moderator

Premium Member


Posted - 02/14/2019 :  11:12:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Good info on painting your locos. Thanks for posting.

George



Country: USA | Posts: 14804 Go to Top of Page

railman28
Fireman



Posted - 02/14/2019 :  12:59:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Excellent painting. You got a great looking fleet there.

It's only make-believe

Country: USA | Posts: 4862 Go to Top of Page

Chris333
Engine Wiper

Posted - 02/14/2019 :  4:09:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That is just fantastic!

Do you have a number for the "modern Vehicle wash". EDIT: found it #121

Did the boiler itself get anything special?



Edited by - Chris333 on 02/14/2019 5:46:55 PM

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Michael Hohn
Fireman



Posted - 02/14/2019 :  7:49:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit Michael Hohn's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thatís beautiful work. The impressive lineup conveys a sense of power and looks very real.

Mike



Country: USA | Posts: 4493 Go to Top of Page

Coaltrain
Fireman

Posted - 02/14/2019 :  9:36:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is what Iíve used so far



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Coaltrain
Fireman

Posted - 02/14/2019 :  9:38:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chris333



Did the boiler itself get anything special?



No, it is all the same



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Chris333
Engine Wiper

Posted - 02/15/2019 :  03:14:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ah (facepalm) I was looking for AK stuff not MIG. I have the AK set for weathered wood and they are great.

Thanks for the info!



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brownbr
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 02/15/2019 :  06:19:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks really good.

Bryan

Country: USA | Posts: 1501 Go to Top of Page

DAND
New Hire

Posted - 02/15/2019 :  4:02:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Coal Train thank you for your excellent instructions on your painting methods. Like you I strip and sand blast my brass, however after they are clean and ready for paint I used to use Floquil Zink Chromate primer, however we lost my stash of Floquil and our house due to the Tubbs fire in Sonoma County last year, thus my inquiry as to what primer you employed on your brass. I am in a constant fight with acrylics and would prefer to use lacquer or enamel based paints. I was considering using Nasonís auto primer, but will attempt to purchase your recommended auto primer for experimentation purposes. Besides MIG /AK weathering tools I also employ Wilder products.

Thanks again from your locomotive painting process and I look forward to seeing more of your excellent craftsmanship.
DanD



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Coaltrain
Fireman

Posted - 02/18/2019 :  05:49:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
here is the primer I used for this locomotive.



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