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Joe-SVL
Section Hand
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 Posted - 11/05/2020 : 1:24:50 PM
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Mike,
After way to many minutes looking at the drawings in TS #17 and studying photos on-line I've decided that the end boards on my car will not extend out to the outer sides of the end boards. The drawings in TS #17 have a tremendous amount of data in them which at times makes it kinda hard to find the detail that I am looking for at the moment. BUT I am still super glad that Jim B gave me the reference to TS #17.
Joe in Orlando
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Country: USA
| Posts: 97 |
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Joe-SVL
Section Hand
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Posted - 11/22/2020 : 5:09:35 PM
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Ladders,
I'm on my 3-rd scratch built car, a stock car, and as strange as it may seem I finally have a need for ladders. My flat car and Drovers caboose did not have external ladders. BurleyJim months ago pointed me to Transhed Cyclopedia #17 which had a great dimensioned drawing of a PRR stock car. I will be including this 2 page drawing in my documentation package which means my judges will have a great reference frame to evaluate my ladders (construction and detail categories). From the TS#17 drawings the ladder rungs are stated to be 15.75" apart and the width as I measured it with my dial caliper appears to be about 18.3". I can see several options for ladders and would appreciate some guidance.
Option 1. Use "Best fit" ladders from Tichy or other like vendors
Option 2. Use 0.020" wire and build my own
Option 3. Use Northeastern Scale lumber pieces and build my own
Option 4. Use Evergreen styrene rods and build my own
Option 5. A combination of options 3 and 4
thanks
Joe in Orlando
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Country: USA
| Posts: 97 |
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BurleyJim
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 11/22/2020 : 6:10:16 PM
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Joe, the Tichy ladders will be less of a headache. .020 wire still works out to 1-3/4" rod or pipe. You would need the hands of an ape to climb the ladders. .015 would look closer, but a lot of work for a brass ladder that you still have to prep, and paint. I'd go with the Tichy ladders, and be done.
Jim
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| Take the red pill |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6036 |
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Michael Hohn
Fireman
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Posted - 11/22/2020 : 6:23:07 PM
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Joe,
Photos I’ve seen of Mather stock car models make me think the Tichy ladders won’t work. Nor will any commercial parts I’ve seen. I think you need to use individual grab irons.
Mike
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Country: USA
| Posts: 7006 |
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Joe-SVL
Section Hand
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Posted - 01/11/2021 : 2:30:39 PM
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I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940
thanks
Joe in Orlando
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Country: USA
| Posts: 97 |
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jbvb
Fireman
Premium Member
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Posted - 01/11/2021 : 2:32:38 PM
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I'm not a PRR historian, but I would be extremely surprised if they used anything but a commercial stamped steel pattern roof in 1940.
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Country: USA
| Posts: 6702 |
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mwbpequod
Fireman
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Posted - 01/11/2021 : 7:45:17 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Joe-SVL
I'm making progress on my PRR 128079 stock car. My question for today is what type of roof - metal, wood, or tar paper would have been on this car which was built in 1940
thanks
Joe in Orlando
What's the car class for that stock car?
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| In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 2298 |
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Joe-SVL
Section Hand
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Posted - 01/12/2021 : 11:20:06 AM
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According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".
Joe in Orlando
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Country: USA
| Posts: 97 |
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mwbpequod
Fireman
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Posted - 01/12/2021 : 1:15:10 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Joe-SVL
According to my 1953 ORER the AAR class designation for my PRR 128079 stock car is "80".
Joe in Orlando
I was hoping for the PRR class number; those begin with K and have either a number or letter after the K.
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| In a time like ours seemings and portents signify. Ours is a generation when dogs howl and the skin crawls on the skull with its beast's foreboding. |
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Country: USA
| Posts: 2298 |
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