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Author Previous Topic: Rebuilding the Royal and Edisto Railroad Topic Next Topic: Tubular Diaphragm Question
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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 06/07/2013 :  07:58:02 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Joe. Here's last night's progress:



Apropos of my question about Elliot Moore's use of rattle-can texture paint for concrete, what I found at Amesbury Industrial Supply (an excellent reason not to drive to the big box stores in Seabrook) was Rustoleum Multicolor Textured 223524 Desert Bisque. I like the color, it doesn't attack .040 styrene, but boy is it thick: I completely lost the rather deep scribed joints in the sidewalk.

This is my first experiment with rattle-cans for model work, and I'm not a convert - no control over how much paint, not sure exactly where the nozzle is pointing till you push the button. Still, I managed to mask/paint three wood-putty concrete retaining walls & abutments this morning, in situ.



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deemery
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/07/2013 :  10:45:28 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Next time, try a paint-on texture paint like this stuff:

Dab it on, rather than brush it, so you don't get brushstrokes. Let it dry thoroughly (and if you don't like the effect, before it's dry you can wipe it off with a damp cloth.)

dave


Modeling 1890s (because the voices in my head told me to)

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MarkF
Engineer

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Posted - 06/07/2013 :  11:47:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've seen that used on Harsco's work and it looked great to me, but I must agree with James. I haven't tried the 'rattle can' spray paints on models yet, but will give it a shot. I know that George Sellios uses Rustoleum for a lot of his buildings, which surprised me, but he gets away with it. Not sure if because it was just for his back ground buildings, but I figured if he can get away with it, I sure could give it a try and see what happens! It's worth experimenting with.

Mark

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/11/2013 :  07:56:37 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A good deal of progress on the High St. scene, working both in the evening and before I leave for work:



I wanted the stone rougher than I can get by scribing styrene, and proud of the concrete/steel above, so I wrapped aluminum screen wire around the lower abutments.



Here's wood putty applied to one side of the cut, and part of it painted/carved.



Here's the finished carving from the west side.



And the east side. Still needs some touch up and a weathering wash.

If anyone tries this, DO NOT USE semi-gloss latex paint. The film is too strong, so it is prone to peeling when you scribe it. Working on the Merrimack St. retaining walls, I got the same amount of carving to this stage in half the time using flat black latex.



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jbvb
Fireman

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Posted - 06/13/2013 :  8:30:17 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The last couple of days' hobby time has been focused on the south side of the High St. cut:



I couldn't recall seeing this style of 'no loitering' done commercially, though it wouldn't surprise me if it was to be found somewhere in a German or UK catalog. If I'd had more than 15" to do, it might have been worth making a mold. But I decided I could probably manage it in wood putty.



The other night I made the base wall.



Last night I applied a 1/16" layer of wood putty to the top. While it was still wet I carved the nubbly tops with a hobby knife. This could probably be done with 'leather hard' plaster, provided you made the whole wall in one go, to avoid issues getting new plaster to stick to old.

The dilute black latex wash reveals that a lot of finish work is needed before final painting & mortar-line carving. So I'd better take advantage of the rainy evening and get upstairs.



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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 06/13/2013 :  8:58:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Looks good to me, James! That "No Loitering" work is a nice touch, and one not seen in most places.

I need to file that idea away....

Pete
in Michigan



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/16/2013 :  6:37:55 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
A discussion in another thread got me thinking about how I model; I tend to get a project to a certain point, then work on something else. For a change, I'm going to finish the High St. scene as best I can. This hasn't kept me from making progress elsewhere this weekend, but most of the effort went here:



The house is a temporary view-block, not what goes there in the long run. This needs more diverse grass, the H-arm (left) where the open wire changed to cable and telltales.



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robert goslin
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/18/2013 :  8:11:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James, Really nice stonework, and a good idea to use the wire to give it some grip.
Just wondering what sort of diesel is that, and from what era?


Regards Rob

Despite the cost of living, it's still popular.

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/19/2013 :  07:55:41 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Robert, I've seen plaster/putty/spackle lift when the substrate flexes or expands/contracts, and don't want to lose my investment in carving. The diesel is an EMD BL-2, a bastardized F-3 rushed into production about 1949 to compete with Alco's RS-2. Not many were sold, and few were as long-lived as the GP-7s which replaced them in EMD's catalog.

In pursuit of completeness, the last couple of evenings went to building the H-arm:



To the Rix parts, I added a cable termination box (.125 square styrene tube with .060 channel for the wire hoods) and a work platform (Plastruct 3/64 angle brackets, .020 wire rail w/ .010x.018 flat brass braces) for signal maintainers. Now that I've built it, I'm sure to find the slides I took 20+ years ago.



I also added a few tall grass bunches, I will do more based on the picture.



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/30/2013 :  07:28:08 AM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Last week, I went to Atlantic City by train (work, not play), so I used some laptop time to make the panel diagrams I need for my Electrical Engineering AP certificate. This is Bexley (see pg. 10 of this thread for the track plan):



The 'arrow' block gap symbols show where individual 'swing block' segments are powered from depending on the switch position.

The printing quality suffers because it's a screen capture rather than an export: XTrkCAD won't export at more than 100 DPI, which doesn't work well at the scale of the electrical symbol parameter file I'm using. But it's OK for documentation.

Computers aside, I'm working on a couple more H-arms (I made a jig, why not) and I've started the CBS Hytron (later Owens-Illinois) warehouse that will be the biggest building on the Newburyport end of the layout. Pictures when I've got the walls up.



Edited by - jbvb on 06/30/2013 07:31:29 AM

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 06/30/2013 :  3:20:44 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The temperature outside is above 90F, but my old house holds the cool well so I'm downstairs doing computer work till the sun gets lower. But before the attic got too hot, I got the core of the Hytron warehouse together.



The prototype was built around the end of WWII, using concrete up to just above the floor, then block, then fibreglass windows and a steel trim piece at the top. There was no wind generator, and only one other building in the 1/2 mile square "block" it occupies. The shed roof over the freight doors is going to complicate uncoupling, but AFAIK it's original.



Thinking about warping, I checked my pile of scrap acrylic, and decided to use it instead of foam-core. The foundation is 1/2" plywood, the roof is recycled political sign material; it's about 3/16" thick and appears to be extruded polyproplyene. Later this week I'll start applying laminations.



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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/07/2013 :  1:35:07 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here it is with styrene applied for pilasters and the strip that will support the car shed roof. I used the flat car to set the loading door threshold heights.



This morning I sanded the area near the top of the wall that will represent the fibreglass windows, then masked and applied Plastruct .020 cinderblock sheet using 3M 77 spray adhesive.



I wouldn't have masked the bottom of the wall had I realized I only needed to spray the back of the cinderblock sheet. Once this is dry, I can paint the concrete and cinderblock portions. The corrugated metal and flashing at the top of the wall awaits buying more styrene next week.

Knock on wood, but today's work went so fast I felt like I was channeling Harsco.



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Orionvp17
Fireman

Premium Member

Posted - 07/07/2013 :  2:01:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
James,

Progress indeed! Very nice! Congratulations!

I seem to make glacial progress on everything, with occasional bursts of actual movement, and then more glacial crawling. Very frustrating. I need less Think and more Do.

As to "Channeling Harsco," I think you need lots of pipes everywhere to do that.

Pete
in Michigan



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Mike Hamer
Engineer



Posted - 07/07/2013 :  3:04:08 PM  Show Profile  Visit Mike Hamer's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes, James, it's exciting for me to see the progess...almost as much as your excitement in progressing the layout further! I don't think that you are different from many other modellers who seem to work on many different layout items at a time.

Mike Hamer
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
http://www.bostonandmaine.blogspot.ca
http://www.craftsmanstructures.blogspot.ca
http://modelrailroadsivisit.blogspot.ca

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jbvb
Fireman

Premium Member


Posted - 07/09/2013 :  10:20:04 PM  Show Profile  Visit jbvb's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks, Mike & Pete. I'm keeping up with BigLars' challenge to get things finished, because my project list is too long, and there's a real risk of losing important bits if I leave them too long. At the bottom, I want a working, good-looking model railroad, nobody is going to build it for me, and I'm able to do the work now.



Recent progress: Sunday a coat of rattle-can texture paint for the concrete areas, overcoated with gray. I don't like the finish and the color is too brown, so I'll be airbrushing it anyway. But it will be almost a meter from viewers. Tuesday AM I trimmed the masking and applied the corrugated strip at the top, using Evergreen .080 spacing sheet. I plan to paint it red before I apply a separately-painted silver cap strip. Then I can try out my ideas for the windows and doors.



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Page: of 60 Previous Topic: Rebuilding the Royal and Edisto Railroad Topic Next Topic: Tubular Diaphragm Question  
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