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sierra west scale models railroad camp-O scale
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Posted by kebmo On 03/18/2019 At 1:28:02 PM
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Finished up O'Neil's (waiting for a friend's wife to bring photog lighting etc over to take final pics.
yesterday I started on the SWSM Railroad camp.
i grained and stained the boards yesterday:
and this morning i damp brushed the boards with red iron oxide acrylic craft paint:
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Rookie takes on RDA's J&J Tool
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Posted by JWNoank On 03/17/2019 At 8:13:45 PM
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New Here, and to repeat just a wee bit from the arrival track, I've been accumulating kits and equipment for over 30 years and the time as come to slay one of the dragons. I selected from the collection RDA's J&J Tool because, to be honest, if I make a complete hash of it I can live with the loss, and if I feel bad about it, an injection molded version still is available. So, without further ado, assuming I can figure out the arcane procedures for posting photos I'll get on with it.
But first a bit of warning: work will probably proceed sporadically at best. I welcome any and all constructive criticism, if you think it might offend then please contact me off line.
OK then:
Hopefully there are two photos of the main stone structure in the clamping stage on the kitchen table. This is one of the first kits I acquired and it has substantial urethane resin castings of no fixed thickness. First step was to square up the backs of the four walls, which prompted my wife to dub this project "The Stinky Building." There was a lot of truing and sanding in an attempt to get opposite sides to match, and a fair amount of material had to be removed. In the end, I think I got fairly close. I used 5-minute epoxy to bind everything together, and used 1/4" strip wood in the corners to reinforce things. Squadron green putty was then applied to disguise the seams. Once that hardened I chipped away at things to try and blend things into a hopefully harmonious whole. I also tried the old plastic ship modelers dodge of using white glue to try and hide a seam where the putty was insufficient or else would contribute to rather than alleviate the problem (I think). I live in hopes that the prime coat will hide a multitude of sins.
And here we arrive at something that I'm not sure about. How best to proceed: should I prime with grey auto primer, or a flat white enamel? Should I then follow with a tan paint? The structure will be sited in Southern New England and I'm sort of using the Bradford Soap factory in West Warwick, RI as a guide (the old Valley Queen Mill: more on that at a later date) and that building is more brownish gray than grayish brown, if that makes any sense.
Ah, bugger it! Can't upload pictures keep getting Operation not allowed. As they say, more to follow
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Bret's Brewery
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Posted by txdyna65 On 03/11/2019 At 02:51:34 AM
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Ive seen a few very nice builds on this and had the kit so I thought Id give it a try. I used cedar cut from cigar wrapper for the shingles instead of the campbells shingles. I just never have good luck with those shingles. I also put a top on the water tank with a small hatch and handle. Added a few barrels and did some light weathering. Im happy with the way it turned out. Now to get my layout built so I can place it somewhere.
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HO scale 1950s pharmacy interior
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Posted by Bill Gill On 03/05/2019 At 11:12:22 AM
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I've been working on this model for quite awhile and still am less than halfway done, but here are a couple shots of some of the interior pieces posed against a scrap piece of matte board that is about the same color that the wall will be. Everything is scratchbuilt. In the first photo the posters above the cabinets are GIMPed in, but will be added when the interior is installed. The magazine rack on the far left is just posed in the photo. It will be on the opposite wall of the pharmacy, next to a soda fountain.
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Brush painting with acrylic paint (Walthers Kits)
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Posted by jlg759 On 03/01/2019 At 3:44:43 PM
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I am working on a Walthers kit and wanted to brush paint with craft paints or model master acrylics. My question is what can I prime the plastic with to make the paint adhere better to the plastic. I read the sticky and did not see this addressed.
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HO Window Panes with Canopy Glue - A Trick
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Posted by darrylhuffman On 02/27/2019 At 01:20:27 AM
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I hate cutting acetate for windows in HO and have been using Canopy Glue for the window panes for a few weeks.
But I found I could not avoid having problems with the liquid settoling with the window facing down on wax paper or up on wax paper.
Wrinkling the wax paper helped--but not much.
So I cut two pieces of 1/8 inch basswood and glued them to a piece of cardstock with a gap of a little over 1/16 inch between them.
Now I put the canopy glue in the top half of the HO window, set it in this rack and let it dry.
3 hours later I do the bottom half and let it dry.
This simple to make tool really solves the problems I was having with Canopy Glue.
You will notice the traditional red label glue and the new green label glue. Both are the same, just new labeling.
I also experimented with the Microscale and Testors products which are designed to do the same thing.
The Testors bottle was useless. The water had separated from the emulsion. When I squeezed the bottle, lots of water came out and then the emulsion came out in a lumpy, useless mess.
The MicroScale product was way too thick to be of use to me.
But the Pacer Canopy Glues work great.
It may be that I got two defective bottles of the Testors and Microscale products, but as expensive as this stuff is I did not want to buy more bottles to try.
I have also started using the canopy glue as a "fast grabbing" white glue.
It is thicker than the Elmers I usually use, but it grabs quickly and is stronger.
A valuable tool.
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| Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | |
 Posted By:
UNCLE BOB
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Signed: 1/5/2011 9:10:22 PM
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Posted By:
paul zeigler
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I look forward to making a contribution hopefully and learning a great deal in the process. A question: is there any information as to the steps to the installation of manual switch mechanisms? As a novice, I seem to be at aloss as to how to set them up. Paul
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Signed: 12/13/2010 7:07:51 PM
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Posted By:
Joe Giacchino
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i saw Dr. patti's layout and it is highly detailed and accurate. must have taken years to complete .
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Signed: 12/1/2010 10:23:04 AM
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Posted By:
Pennman
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Hi ya'all...
I have been reading the forums for quite some time, and am very impressed with everyone's entries here! So, I decided to join as a member. I will show you all what I am about, once I progress a little more on my current scratchbuild project.
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Signed: 10/8/2010 10:31:17 AM
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Posted By:
Ed
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Signed: 9/6/2010 12:55:44 AM
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Posted By:
classic57
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Up grading from H0 to On30. Eyes ain't what they used to be !
Any Kiwi's about?
Cheers.
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Signed: 7/17/2010 12:48:35 AM
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Posted By:
mark
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Can someone help? I have 2 full size wood box cars aprox 40' by 9'5" wide. How do I get rid of them or sell them?
Thanks,
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Signed: 7/6/2010 11:31:51 PM
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Posted By:
richard w. hartka
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Signed: 5/26/2010 4:07:37 PM
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Posted By:
kevin hill
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Signed: 5/10/2010 6:44:04 PM
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Posted By:
Stephen Jones
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There is some really impressive modeling on this site, and it seems like a really nice community as well.
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Signed: 3/31/2010 8:51:18 PM
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