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Walthers Brick Kilns, etc
Posted by deemery On 06/13/2020 At 7:58:20 PM
I'm planning a small brickworks for the corner under the stairs.


I got the Walthers brick kiln kit (and I have some other kilns put away somewhere), but the Walthers kit with their details will go to the front edge of the scene.

I have mixed feelings about the kit. They're really designed for more modern gas fired setup, but they say you can not use the gas piping and add the chimney for a coal fired kiln. The main body of the kiln is assembled from 14 segments. The segments fit together pretty well, but I think it would have been MUCH better if the body was a single casting, or at most 2 castings. There are too many partlines/assembly points.

Anyway, the big step in converting to coal is to plug the hole in each segment for the gas burner pipeline. I drilled out that hole to 1/16 and then inserted a little piece of Evergreen 1/16 rod.

You can also see the piece of styrene I used to hold the bricked-up loading door. I used a little drop of Testors tube glue at each wall segment boundary, to provide a stronger bond.


Then I spray painted the styrene strips and the clamps, etc, basically all the ironwork. I'm using Vallejo panzer grey primer, which makes a good iron base. Then I oversprayed that lightly with a rust color. The airbrush spritzed a bit, which for once was a helpful effect.

While that dried, I primed the brick walls Vallejo red-brown, a dark brick color.

You can see the lighter orange color of the plastic on the inside.

After that cured, I spot-painted a couple of bricks. I probably should have done more, but that does get tedious. Then I slightly thinned some white gouache (artist opaque watercolor paint) and used that as the mortar wash. I applied increasingly thicker coats until I got the mortar definition I wanted. I'm surprised to note that most of the kiln photos I found on the Internet had obvious white mortar lines, so I duplicated that.

I primed the "lid" a neutral grey, and then applied washes. I'm not quite sure what the material is on prototype kilns, it looks like a weathered concrete on several examples. So that was the look I was aiming for.


You have to do all the brick coloring before you can apply the metal hardware.

There's a curved brace that goes between the two iron door posts. I drilled them out with a #67 bit so the styrene piece would fit easily in the hole. Then I glued one brace in place, threaded the rod, and added the other brace. I put a little dollop of glue on each side of the rod and moved it back and forth in the holes to cement the rod in place.

Then I started on the iron bands. I'm using "Super Phatic" glue for this, that adhesive has a good bond on top of the paint. I laid down one strip, making sure both ends had a good amount of glue, and added a clamp. Then I worked the other side's strip, removing and resetting the clamp so there's an equal amount of space between the strip ends on each side. That's where the strip clamps will go.


So that's the first full day's work. Painting, rough assembly (also the chimney, which I'll show tomorrow), and I started on the iron bands on the first of the 2 kilns.

dave
FSM Jacobs Fuel Co - An old one still on the shelf
Posted by adrian_batey On 06/10/2020 At 07:58:34 AM
I posted this build when i started many years ago here. As usual never finished and is still un finished. It took a dive to the floor at some point and resulted in having to re build all the frames under the bunkers and another other parts.

The office is also part from Bar Mills Husrt Boiler kit that suffered and eppisode with moisture. The card backing didnt fair well so i went bout scratch building a new one.

Anyway slowly getting there on this kit and i mean slowly due to number of years.....











Slowly working away on my HO Sawmill
Posted by adrian_batey On 06/10/2020 At 07:38:11 AM
I have been absent from the forum a few years focusing on other things but have still been busy.

I don't remember posting these picture of my sawmill project here. I produced my own plans for this but unfortunantly the layout of equipment was never right. I have come to far to go back now and correct it so this will see completion on a layout.

I have started a module that this will be situated on late last month and hopefully have some pictures in the coming weeks





Rslaserkits HO Scale Saw Filers Shack #2018
Posted by desertdrover On 06/08/2020 At 5:21:53 PM
This Saw Filers Shack, HO Kit #2018 from Rslaserkits, is a great looking and very well laser cut structure. In my option this is a very moderately priced kit for the quality of wooden windows, and the fact that they can be opened in any configuration.
Whether you have a logging layout or not, this kit could very well be used as a florist shop, a carpenters shop, machine shop or any other structure that could benefit from all the lighting from the abundance of windows.
After reading through the instructions, it is apparent that most of the time is used to get the windows looking at their best, and the rest of the structure goes together quite quickly and easily.
Below are pictures of the package, with the parts that come within the kit.



World's Easiest HO Craftsman Kit
Posted by darrylhuffman On 06/05/2020 At 2:30:30 PM
I enjoyed building in O scale for decades as it allowed me to easily build a model board by board. Now that I model in HO, I am always looking for kits that give the impression of a board by board build.

I recently found a great kit from a new manufacturer. This is the easiest wood kit I have every built. Here is a photo of the finished model.



This great kit is can be found online at:

www.traintimemodels.com

The best part is this kit sells for only $16.95. A great bargain. I ordered 6 more right away.

This photo shows what comes in the kit.



This closeup view shows one of the excellent laser cut pieces. Great detail giving the look of individual boards.



I began my model by using some scraps of stripwood to reinforce the floor to make sure it remains level and to elevate it slightly to allow for scenery.

I then marked the floor with a sharp pencil to show the sheets of plywood the prototype probably used. If you prefer, you can apply individual strips of stripwood to shown a board by board floor.



I then glued one of the end walls directly to the floor, taking care to make sure it is vertical and at the edge of the floor.



I then let this piece dry completely. Actually, the majority of the time spent in building this model was simply waiting for glue to dry.

I use Canopy Glue for all my wood to wood bonds. It has a slight "grab" when it is first applied which helps me keep things in alignment.
Model Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster to Fill Gap?
Posted by Bruce Scott On 05/28/2020 At 05:16:30 AM
I am expanding a diorama and need to fill in along a 20" long space between the main base and the new extension's base. There is a linear, though irregular, gap between the two pieces that range from 1/8" to 1/4" wide in places that I must fill in. (The base heights are 1/2" tall.) The two bases are Locktite glued on top of Foamboard. Am considering filling the gap with either Modeling Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster.
Would one product be better than the other for filling this gap? Why?
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 Posted By: Bob Taylor 
Great site!!!
Im modeling a freelance Sp layout
28x33 thats just about ready to landscape, so it's a long way from the standard shown on your site. But getting there is half the fun.
Cheers Bob t.
Signed: 4/23/2011 5:58:46 AM
 Posted By: LUCIANO MASOTTO 
Great, great, great. Great help for a U.S. model RR overseas.
Signed: 3/1/2011 12:03:26 PM
 Posted By: Dennis 
Great site!
Thanks for the willingness to share.
I am tracing my family tree and am searching for NAR employee list/staff.
I have a great uncle who was a chef with a railroad gang and in 1940 was somewhere between Rycroft,Arras, and Edmonton.
George McInnis. Don't know if his work took him to the Alaska Highway build, Canol road, or where.
Anyone have any clues for me to search for staff or employee lists?
Thanks again
Signed: 2/22/2011 12:04:17 AM
 Posted By: marioscd 
I have discovered this site/forum some days ago and now I'm not able to exit from it!!! It is absolutely amazing! Thanks to all the great model makers that shows fantastic pictures and suggestions.

Mario Scuderi
Signed: 2/8/2011 3:30:45 PM
 Posted By: Dawn Carol Goshorn 
I came across the site by accident and was THRILLED to see the RR models for the Shirleysburg area. My Dad grew up in the Shirleysburd/ My Union area as did his dad and his dad befor that. My great-grandfather worked for EBT and the only picture I ever saw of him was of that of him standing by an engine. I love the work (though I've always loved model trains). Thanks you guys for bringing this all back to life!
Dawn Goshorn
Signed: 1/16/2011 10:34:22 AM
 Posted By: Frank DeBonis 
Stumbled on this site and saw my January 1989 RMC cover shot of Phil Chiavetta's layout. Haven't thought about that for a long time. Thanks for the memories!
Signed: 1/8/2011 9:31:03 AM
 Posted By: UNCLE BOB 
COOL !!
Signed: 1/5/2011 9:10:22 PM
 Posted By: paul zeigler 
I look forward to making a contribution hopefully and learning a great deal in the process. A question: is there any information as to the steps to the installation of manual switch mechanisms? As a novice, I seem to be at aloss as to how to set them up. Paul
Signed: 12/13/2010 7:07:51 PM
 Posted By: Joe Giacchino 
i saw Dr. patti's layout and it is highly detailed and accurate. must have taken years to complete .
Signed: 12/1/2010 10:23:04 AM
 Posted By: Pennman 
Hi ya'all...
I have been reading the forums for quite some time, and am very impressed with everyone's entries here! So, I decided to join as a member. I will show you all what I am about, once I progress a little more on my current scratchbuild project.
Signed: 10/8/2010 10:31:17 AM
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