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Site News
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Walthers Brick Kilns, etc
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Posted by deemery On 06/13/2020 At 7:58:20 PM
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I'm planning a small brickworks for the corner under the stairs.
I got the Walthers brick kiln kit (and I have some other kilns put away somewhere), but the Walthers kit with their details will go to the front edge of the scene.
I have mixed feelings about the kit. They're really designed for more modern gas fired setup, but they say you can not use the gas piping and add the chimney for a coal fired kiln. The main body of the kiln is assembled from 14 segments. The segments fit together pretty well, but I think it would have been MUCH better if the body was a single casting, or at most 2 castings. There are too many partlines/assembly points.
Anyway, the big step in converting to coal is to plug the hole in each segment for the gas burner pipeline. I drilled out that hole to 1/16 and then inserted a little piece of Evergreen 1/16 rod.
You can also see the piece of styrene I used to hold the bricked-up loading door. I used a little drop of Testors tube glue at each wall segment boundary, to provide a stronger bond.
Then I spray painted the styrene strips and the clamps, etc, basically all the ironwork. I'm using Vallejo panzer grey primer, which makes a good iron base. Then I oversprayed that lightly with a rust color. The airbrush spritzed a bit, which for once was a helpful effect.
While that dried, I primed the brick walls Vallejo red-brown, a dark brick color.
You can see the lighter orange color of the plastic on the inside.
After that cured, I spot-painted a couple of bricks. I probably should have done more, but that does get tedious. Then I slightly thinned some white gouache (artist opaque watercolor paint) and used that as the mortar wash. I applied increasingly thicker coats until I got the mortar definition I wanted. I'm surprised to note that most of the kiln photos I found on the Internet had obvious white mortar lines, so I duplicated that.
I primed the "lid" a neutral grey, and then applied washes. I'm not quite sure what the material is on prototype kilns, it looks like a weathered concrete on several examples. So that was the look I was aiming for.
You have to do all the brick coloring before you can apply the metal hardware.
There's a curved brace that goes between the two iron door posts. I drilled them out with a #67 bit so the styrene piece would fit easily in the hole. Then I glued one brace in place, threaded the rod, and added the other brace. I put a little dollop of glue on each side of the rod and moved it back and forth in the holes to cement the rod in place.
Then I started on the iron bands. I'm using "Super Phatic" glue for this, that adhesive has a good bond on top of the paint. I laid down one strip, making sure both ends had a good amount of glue, and added a clamp. Then I worked the other side's strip, removing and resetting the clamp so there's an equal amount of space between the strip ends on each side. That's where the strip clamps will go.
So that's the first full day's work. Painting, rough assembly (also the chimney, which I'll show tomorrow), and I started on the iron bands on the first of the 2 kilns.
dave
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FSM Jacobs Fuel Co - An old one still on the shelf
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Posted by adrian_batey On 06/10/2020 At 07:58:34 AM
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I posted this build when i started many years ago here. As usual never finished and is still un finished. It took a dive to the floor at some point and resulted in having to re build all the frames under the bunkers and another other parts.
The office is also part from Bar Mills Husrt Boiler kit that suffered and eppisode with moisture. The card backing didnt fair well so i went bout scratch building a new one.
Anyway slowly getting there on this kit and i mean slowly due to number of years.....
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Slowly working away on my HO Sawmill
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Posted by adrian_batey On 06/10/2020 At 07:38:11 AM
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I have been absent from the forum a few years focusing on other things but have still been busy.
I don't remember posting these picture of my sawmill project here. I produced my own plans for this but unfortunantly the layout of equipment was never right. I have come to far to go back now and correct it so this will see completion on a layout.
I have started a module that this will be situated on late last month and hopefully have some pictures in the coming weeks
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Rslaserkits HO Scale Saw Filers Shack #2018
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Posted by desertdrover On 06/08/2020 At 5:21:53 PM
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This Saw Filers Shack, HO Kit #2018 from Rslaserkits, is a great looking and very well laser cut structure. In my option this is a very moderately priced kit for the quality of wooden windows, and the fact that they can be opened in any configuration.
Whether you have a logging layout or not, this kit could very well be used as a florist shop, a carpenters shop, machine shop or any other structure that could benefit from all the lighting from the abundance of windows.
After reading through the instructions, it is apparent that most of the time is used to get the windows looking at their best, and the rest of the structure goes together quite quickly and easily.
Below are pictures of the package, with the parts that come within the kit.
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World's Easiest HO Craftsman Kit
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Posted by darrylhuffman On 06/05/2020 At 2:30:30 PM
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I enjoyed building in O scale for decades as it allowed me to easily build a model board by board. Now that I model in HO, I am always looking for kits that give the impression of a board by board build.
I recently found a great kit from a new manufacturer. This is the easiest wood kit I have every built. Here is a photo of the finished model.
This great kit is can be found online at:
www.traintimemodels.com
The best part is this kit sells for only $16.95. A great bargain. I ordered 6 more right away.
This photo shows what comes in the kit.
This closeup view shows one of the excellent laser cut pieces. Great detail giving the look of individual boards.
I began my model by using some scraps of stripwood to reinforce the floor to make sure it remains level and to elevate it slightly to allow for scenery.
I then marked the floor with a sharp pencil to show the sheets of plywood the prototype probably used. If you prefer, you can apply individual strips of stripwood to shown a board by board floor.
I then glued one of the end walls directly to the floor, taking care to make sure it is vertical and at the edge of the floor.
I then let this piece dry completely. Actually, the majority of the time spent in building this model was simply waiting for glue to dry.
I use Canopy Glue for all my wood to wood bonds. It has a slight "grab" when it is first applied which helps me keep things in alignment.
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Model Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster to Fill Gap?
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Posted by Bruce Scott On 05/28/2020 At 05:16:30 AM
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I am expanding a diorama and need to fill in along a 20" long space between the main base and the new extension's base. There is a linear, though irregular, gap between the two pieces that range from 1/8" to 1/4" wide in places that I must fill in. (The base heights are 1/2" tall.) The two bases are Locktite glued on top of Foamboard. Am considering filling the gap with either Modeling Putty or Light Hydrocal Plaster.
Would one product be better than the other for filling this gap? Why?
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There are 155 signatures
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| Pages:
1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | |
 Posted By:
Art H.
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I'm new to forums & such so bear with me. Also rying to re-enter railroard modeling. I would be interested in talking to someone from the HOn3 module group in Pittsburgh, Pa.
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Signed: 3/26/2012 11:06:54 AM
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Posted By:
ward kesic
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INTERESTING FORUM,GREAT PICS !
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Signed: 2/18/2012 2:15:44 PM
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Posted By:
Dwight
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Does anyone know what could be used to make a hinge that would allow a very small HO scale door to open 180 deg.It's only 18"W x 36"H.
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Signed: 2/6/2012 1:15:47 PM
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Posted By:
ali alamedy
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Dear All ,
I tried to join your great forums many time ,but unfortunately I didn't receive the confirmation mail ,So can anybody tell me if there is any rules or specific age or nationality to join this forums ,Please its so important to me to join this forums cuz I did a lot of railroad stations scale models 100% handmade by me and its mean alot for me to hear your opinion about it .
Many thanks and best regards
Ali
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Signed: 1/8/2012 3:16:29 AM
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Posted By:
rod n eye
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Woodland Scenics BURNS !!!! Thursday 1/5/2016 Linn Creek , Missouri Big fire !! No one hurt !! ....but great damage !! Over 150 people without a place to work tomorrow !!!
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Signed: 1/5/2012 11:05:50 PM
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Posted By:
boxcarbill
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Hi Everyone,I'm new to this computer chatting. I don't know how to post pics of my portable on30 layout. Because I live in a apartment, & don't have room or place for permanent,stand alone layout. I decided to make a aluminum box that measures 4ftx6ft when open & 2ft x 6ft when closed. I'm modeling a fictitious hawaian sugarcane operation.
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Signed: 12/23/2011 3:11:04 PM
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Posted By:
Frank Hermanek
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I'd like to find the article #19991 to enhance the size/appearance of the Bar Mills brewery. How do I get it it? I am an NMRA member. Please help
Frank 148702
I don't see an image format
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Signed: 10/20/2011 7:35:15 PM
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Posted By:
brook jacobs
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gentlemen i have a 14 inch tall round stove which has the letters NM&Tco buffalo n\NewYork on the top of its lid I was wondering if this is a stove which would be connected to the railroad in your neck of the woods? the only connection to the letters on the top is the NM&Tco railroad in the Appalacias any thoughts would be appreciated
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Signed: 8/18/2011 10:14:16 PM
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Posted By:
Andy
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Signed: 4/29/2011 8:02:32 PM
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Posted By:
Bob Holden
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A neat site...I'm in the process of rebuilding my HO layout...it was dismantled for moving. The SLO&WRR (St. Lawrence, Ontario & Western Railroad) should be up and running again by year's end. Love the pictures...hope to contribute in that area!
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Signed: 4/25/2011 2:00:04 PM
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