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Belt drive clutch arrangement?
Posted by lenelg On 01/21/2017 At 2:54:29 PM
One detail which is not obvious in the belt drive systems I have seen modeled is how do you turn on or off power to a specific machine, once the main distribution shaft is running?

My grandfather´s old mechanical workshop was all belt driven from one large 1910 vintage electric motor. The distribution shaft had two pulleys for each machine. One pulley was keyed to the shaft and powered the machine when needed, but next to it was a free-wheeling idler pulley. A long wooden handle hanging from the ceiling was equipped with a metal fork which could move the drive belt from the idler pulley to the drive pulley when needed, and shift it back when he was finished using that machine.

Was this normal practise or were there other types of clutch arrangements used?
Lou’s Logging High Wheel Build
Posted by desertdrover On 01/21/2017 At 10:53:17 AM
Logging High Wheels or as they were also called - Big wheels, logging wheels, logger wheels, lumbering wheels, bummer carts, katydids, caralog, or nibs were a specially designed large set of wooden wagon wheels that could carry logs that were up to 100 feet in length, and several at a time.
Prior to the 1870's, logging was performed by the grueling process of dragging logs from the woods with bull, horses, or oxen teams. In 1875, Silas Overpak of Manistee, Michigan, introduced a wheeled device from which logs could be suspended, making the work of bulls, horses or Oxen greatly easier in moving logs to mills or landings.
The logging wheels date back as far as the 1870’s, and some say even long before that time frame. At the request of a farmer from Michigan that was then one of the nation's leading producer of lumber, who had found they were useful for logging over softer terrain, had these built for his use by Silas.
The sizes of these big wheels were made and sold from 7’ (2.1336 m) thru 10’ feet (3.048 m) high, and 8” (0.2032 m) to 12” (0.3048 m) wide to keep them from sinking into the mud or soft soil, they cost $100 per diameter foot, a quite considerable investment for the time. Unlike a wagon which carries a load above its axle, these huge wheels carried logs chained beneath the axle. The logs were held by a chain that suspended the logs' weight from the wheel axle, creating a stabilizing, low center of gravity. The wheels could carry logs from 12 feet (3.66 m) to 100 feet (30 m) in length, and enough logs to total 1,000 to 2,000 board feet of lumber in a single load. The axles were manufactured from hard maple, and the 16-foot tongues were made of ironwood. The wheels were clad with iron rims to protect them from stumps, fallen trees, and rocky terrain. 1 to 3 interior iron rings were used to reinforce the wooden spokes of the wheels, and also used as rub rails. These High Wheels were pulled by Horses, Oxen, or Bulls, and in later years with tractors.

If you want to make a pair of Large Scale logging wheels for your railroad consult the May/June 2012 edition of the Gazette. In that issue there is an article by Dick Whitney entitled, “1:20.3 Scale Logging High Wheels” (F Scale) version, which shows you how, step by step. Much like the picture below.

You can also find a brass scratch built HO version from “Scale Brass Models for Model Train Layouts” Scratch built by Bruce Von Stetina, His scratch built HO version is a Brass built high wheel of a working model, of a slip tongue style, high wheel logging cart that lifts scale logs. And, it works just like the prototype. It measures 4 1/2" long x 1 7/16” tall. See views of his model on YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-usnRiZ1Kw

However, for my scratch build of an HO scale version of the Logging High wheel, I’m starting out with wagon wheels that I purchased from Jim, (Forum member BurleyJim). He has a 3-D printer and has been turning out some amazing parts. These wheels measure 7 ½ scale feet high. Large enough to appear right, without looking oversized on an HO scale layout. I will be gluing two of them together to make up a wheel 12” wide, to use on this project. As seen in the below picture I was able to simply glue two sets of wheels together, to make up each wheel for my Logging High Wheel. This gave me an instant proper sized wheel tread, and wheel spoke thickness, without having to do any sanding down or gluing any extra supports to makeup the wheel sets.
In the first split picture it shows the 6” tread thickness, and the wheel is 7 ½ feet wide. However, the ruler angle sitting on top of the wheel, and the camera view makes it appear shorter than it actually is. The second picture shows a wheel hub on one side, and a flat surface on the other side, making it easy for me to glue two wheels back to back and get the wheel thread thickness, and the wheel spoke thickness I need for the High Wheel. The last split picture shows the two wheels held together for viewing purposes. So far we are off to a good start in my opinion.

Foreground Building Flats
Posted by George D On 01/18/2017 At 8:07:11 PM
We have a town on the club layout that has a track running down the middle of the main street. The street runs near the edge of the layout with buildings behind it. Our club president suggested we make a set of building silhouettes along the viewing isle so people could view the scene through windows. I remembered seeing several buildings in model railroad magazines in similar settings where they had detailed interiors and suggested we detail the building interiors and exteriors. Guess who picked up the project? It's taken much longer than I expected for a variety of reasons including not having any deadline to meet.

excellent short airbrushing video
Posted by deemery On 01/18/2017 At 4:36:25 PM

This addresses the problems I usually have when airbrushing. The only thing to note is 2bar is about 30 PSI.

Lou’s HO scale home brewed Railcar Critter
Posted by desertdrover On 01/18/2017 At 4:21:11 PM
For those of you that remember the “Home brewed ‘PLYMOUTH’ Railcar Critter kit by Backwoods Miniatures” (Picture #1) I always wanted to try and build a similar one in HO scale for the L&R Railroad. I’m starting out with two kits of a 1/72 scale 1942 Army staff car from ACE models, and a Bachmann HO scale Trolley/Cable car for my project. (second and third pictures).
Now I’m using the term loosely “build my own” because I haven’t tried matching up the parts to even see if it is even possible yet. The first for me, I usually have all my ducks in a row. So I will attempt to build a Railcar Critter of my own.

This HO scale Bachmann Trolley car is what we are starting out with, for this L&R Backwoods Railcar Critter project.
And, the good news is that after placing the motor mechanism, and the plastic car side together for a visual, they seem to be just fine as far as fitting into place without much cutting, if any at all. The motor appears to be able to set under the hood and in between the car sides. The Trolley frame will have to be shortened some, and the car sides will be cut to the finished length of the frame. The last picture shows places I may have to cut the car sides for a proper fitting length. If I can get away with cutting the sides at #1 it will be like the Railcar Critter from Backwoods Miniatures, otherwise if I have to extend the sides to cut #2, I’ll have a center window, that won’t look bad either.

After mulling over how long I wanted the sides to be, I Chose to make the cuts at the center windows so I could make the critter long enough to include a decoder and needed weight, if wanted in the future. Below are pictures of the area where cuts are to be made, and where the cut sections will be spliced together, to form the needed sides for my version of the Railcar Critter. This my just all work out fine, as I think forward on the construction process, and what yet needs to be done.

I temporally held the sides together with a spring clip, and spot glued the two pieces together at the top of the window area, and bottom of the door seam. After that dried, I ran glue up the insides of the two pieces making them one piece permanent Railcar Critter sides.
The two front grill sections were then glued to the sides, making up the shell in its now rough start form. Sanding, filing and spot filling will take place at a later time. Next will be seeing how much I have to cut back on the motor frame, to re-size it to fit inside the shell.

The first thing to get done is to rotate the motor 180 degrees so the top of the motor, with the lower section, will give more room under the body shell hood area. As seen in the pictures below, the motor in first picture shows how the higher top section would be better in the center of the body area, allowing more hood head room, and also the lip at the top of the motor sticks out to far to the front. By turning the motor 180 degrees as seen in the second picture, it shows the lip and higher top section placed into the center area of the body shell. Third picture shows the motor close-ups to help explain this process, and reason behind it. Also, so that the Railcar Critter’s body would set down onto the frame base properly, I need to cut away a section of the plastic motor support, to give extra room for the grill front section, shown in red, last picture. Now on to shortening the length of the base frame, so the opposite end of the Railcar Critter will fit into place.

While trying to fit the body shell down on to the frame, to see how much I had to shorten the frame back, I found that I had to make further adjustments for the shell to set down in to place properly. I had to notch out both sides of the motor mounts so the shell body car fenders, where they bow in, would set down over the motor mounts. You can see by the next two pictures how the cuts were made. The body does set down into place real fine now. So on to shortening the length of the base frame, so the opposite end of the Railcar Critter will fit into place.

I did a search and found that Tank Dark Yellow 1943 17 ml. VALLEJO 71081 to be the closest color I've found yet for this project. The 71025 Amarillo Panzer Dark Yellow seems too bright, even after I would do a weathering effect. I'm liking the Tank Dark Yellow #71081.

Next comes shortening the Critter frame. I need to move back the left truck approximately ¼” so the front wheel will fall into the fender wheel cut out area. So a succession of cuts will be taking place. First I have to shorten the frame by removing ¼ inches, (as shown in pictures below) then re-splicing the frame back together. Once that is done, I’ll have to take some material off the frame in front of the body shell for finished length.

The cuts have now been made to the frame, and the frame was also spliced back together, and held in place with a few clamps. The picture makes the truck look like it is cut back to far, but it is just an optical illusion, and the truck actually is in the proper location.

Now that the frame is tack glued at the middle giving me the proper spacing for the trucks, I need to cut off a section to the left of the Critter, and add the ¼” piece cut from the middle, to the right side of the Critter to make-up the finished deck frame length. Then gluing and bracing to the frame will take place.

The length and width of the Critter is now at an HO scale 26’ x 7’ frame. The decision now is do I use diamond plate for the deck, or use a wooden floor like an old flatcar would have been used? Using diamond plate I would have to order it, and using a wooden deck, I have materials on hand that can be built easily. As you can see from the top view picture, (picture #3), there is more than enough room for added weight, and decoder. Not sure just yet if it is worth installing sound into this Critter, but it appears to have enough room for that as well.

I realize that there were more suggesting the diamond plate decking, and although I was leaning more toward the diamond pale as well, I chose to go with the wooden deck for these reasons. First, there isn’t much deck showing to get a good effect of the diamond plate look, plus I’d have to order it and maybe never use it again. Second, I have all the strip wood in the world around here. And Third, I think for my logging Railroad, during that Era, the logging area back shops would have just taken an old flatcar and made up a quick Critter out of it. So here it be. I started with a scale 6”x6” beam forming the side sills and end sills, as seen in the Anatomy of a Flat Car pictures below. Of course on the prototype, the sills were joined together with mortise and tenon joinery, figure A. This is where a hole is created in the end sill (the mortise) and a tab is left on the other piece (the tenon). The tenon slides into the mortise and the two pieces are fastened together. On my model I just butt joint the two pieces together with glue. After these sills glue, then I’ll be turning over the Critter and laying the wooden decking.

The prototype deck boards vary in thickness and width, depending on the car builder but usually 4”x12” stock. Some were butt jointed together. This will leave a bit of a gap as the wood dries, but this also allows water to drain off the deck. Many of the car floors were joined with tongue and groove joints. Also, most prototypes did not paint the deck lumber. It would normally need replacing long before it would rot. In my case for this model, I am staining the wood with a brown leather dye and denatured alcohol mix. The strip wood used is Midwest Scale Lumber 4”x12”, (.0416” x .125”) Basswood #8020. I made the wooden deck removable from the frame floor in case any modifications would be needed down the road. When putting together the Railcar Critter, I’ll be able to place the wooden deck onto the mechanism floor, place the double ended Critter body onto the wooden deck, then attach with two screws from the center bottom into the body. This will make for an easy shell on, and shell removal process.

After looking at the Backwoods Miniatures model beam pilot, I wanted to make a change, and built a link and pin version, but found that the Bachmann Trolley/Cable Car frame sets too low to the track for this type of coupler to work properly. So I switched gears and went with a Kadee 30 Series #34 short underset coupler, and will mount it directly to the under frame as seen in the picture below, and just go ahead and build a beam type pilot like the Backwoods model type.

Here we installed the couplers onto the frame using the included screws that come with the Kadee coupler package. A hole was drilled into the frame, and a tap was used to thread the plastic deck. The screws were installed through the coupler components, and cut flush with the top of the deck. The height gauge was used and couplers tested as close as we are going to get them. Now on to making the beam pilot for the Railcar Critter.

I constructed a wooden Beam Pilot using a scale beam, and 4” x 12” boards attached below, with a foot board on each side of the coupler head for the yard workers. Slower speed locomotives and equipment often had a pilot with steps on it to allow yard workers to ride on the locomotive, these were called footboard pilots. Footboard pilots were outlawed for safety reasons in the 1960s and were removed. Modern locomotives now often have front and rear platforms with safety rails where workers can ride. Where mine is the late 40’s and early 50’s Era, and a backwoods Railcar Critter, it is acceptable for my equipment to have this setup.
The picture below with the red line behind the Pilot and Footboard, denotes where I will be constructing a metal brace out of styrene for both Wooden Pilots.

For the Pilot and Footboard brackets I used Evergreen Scale Models strip styrene #8206, .022” x .066” and formed a shape of the brackets as in picture below, making four (4) outer brackets, and also making four (4) “L” shaped inner brackets using the same material. The second picture shows the brackets in place, on the one end of the Railcar Critter. The white cloudy mess is where I use Zip Kicker on the Zap-A-Gap CA. It always seems to leave this coating. In this case it speeds up the drying of the CA, and after painting the entire bottom, and brackets with black paint it won’t show at all as seen in the last picture.

Now to secure the Critter body to the frame, I glued two styrene tabs onto the bottom insides of the body shell. Then drilled through the styrene frame, the wooden deck and into the styrene tabs at the body. With two self-tapping screws I secured the Critter to its frame. This will make for an easy shell on and off for maintenance, repairs, adding a decoder, sound decoders or lighting.

For the Yardmen’s Pilot handrails I used Roundhouse handrail posts #02977, and K&S .020 wire Stock #499 for the rails. The post and wire rails were placed into A-West Blacken-it for about 5 minutes to blacken, then taken out, and put into a water container for another 5-10 minutes to stop the blackening affect process. Two holes were drilled with a 1/32” drill bit at each front end to mount the handrail posts. Then Zap-a-Gap glued in place, and the wire rail super glued to the posts.

Now for my least favorite task. Sanding and fitting in the window sections, dashboard, hood onto both ends, and cutting and matching up the roof so it looks like it is done as one piece. Anytime you chop-up, kit bash, or change a model we are bound to run into some type of problem.

The window frames, dashboard and hood sections are in place, and held with my expensive twist tie clamps, as the window frames dry to the Critter side sections. Next step will be to cut the roof sections approximately center area, and then match them up, and re-glue the two pieces into a one piece roof section.

Looks like things are going to work out on this project. The first half of the roof was cut and glued into place, once this side dried the second roof section was measured and cut, then glued into place as well, finishing the roof process.

Sent to the paint shop for the first primer painting to be able to see the flaws that need to be filled and sanded. The Critter was sprayed with Model Master White Primer.

First paint color applied. I used Tamiya Color TS-3 Dark Yellow, which my local hobby shop had in stock. I think once a light black wash is applied over this color it will be close enough for what I’m looking to achieve.

I’ll be cutting out the windows from the car kit templates, onto plastic windshield film. I had to make a flip over picture of the side window templates, so I could cut and splice where needed.

After taking F1 and F2 window templates and placing them on top of each other, I set them up against the Critter side, and slid them back and forth until they filled the window opening area, taped them together as seen in picture, and used it as the final template for the double ended body. Then two windows were cut from clear plastic windshield sheet, using the newly made template for each side. And, the F3 template was used to cut two front windshields for each end on the Critter. Also, the L&R decals were made up and printed for the Critter. A gloss coat was sprayed onto the Critter sides and once dried, I’ll put on the decals and glue in the window material using Canopy Formula 560 glue.

With the old saying, “waiting for paint to dry” I decided to cut up the original Trolley Car Operator and make him fit into the Railcar Critter. After a cut about mid-section he fit nicely into the Critter.

After a Testors Glosscote the decal was placed on the doors, and then a Testors Dullcote was applied over the whole Critter shell. Now it’s time to install the windows.

The window plastic windshield film, and exhaust pipes have been added to the Railcar Critter, and this project is coming to an end shortly. I’m trying to decide on if I should make wheel well fender skirts, or door covers for storage on the open wheel well sections. That is still up in the air.

For the body steps/ladders for the Railcar critter, I had wanted to use either Freight car ladders from Tichy Train Group or Body Steps from an old MDC/Roundhouse side door caboose as seen in the picture. I finely chose, and went with using two Tichy Train freight car ladders glued together, and made-up into one step-up ladder. For one it didn’t look as bulky as the MDC body steps, and second it didn’t take away from the looks of the Railcar Critter. The MCD steps was like a punch in the eye.

Well I’ve come to the end of the trail with this project for now, as far as the 2017 Challenge goes. As you can see from the pictures I used the Tichy Train Group Freight car ladders #3076 cut down for the steps on both sides. Also, I used Creative Model Associates Milk Cans #1006, cut down and used as Railcar Critter sanding cans inside the wheel well openings on both sides. The other two wheel wells I my put storage doors on them in the future. This project turned out to be a lot of fun, and a great little added piece of equipment for the L&R logging railroad. It runs well as is with DC, however, this project will surface once again in the future for a DCC decoder install How-to. I may even go with a gas engine sound decoder of some type. Until then I hope you enjoyed following this Railcar Critter HO version, inspired by Backwoods Miniatures.

Hill Street - 2017 Challenge
Posted by mountaingoatgreg On 01/13/2017 At 5:23:38 PM
I have been working on a project since the challenge started, but not posted it here yet. I had decided to build a small display shelf layout to give a home to a number of projects that are in various phases of completion, instead of keeping them boxed up. I also wanted a place to be able to take pictures of vehicles and railroad equipment when finished placing them in a completed scene. With that in mind I decided to base the scene on Bend Oregon based around the area of Hill Street.

Here is the layout with buildings in place as a preliminary plan.

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 Posted By: Anthony Vanderbloom 
I found this web site when I was looking for info about The Eureka Mill RR In Mound house Nevada as I live in Dayton Nv I wanted let UASF Andy know I went into Eureka Canyon last weekend and I have taken pictures of the area. If he wanted to see them. I register a week ago but still can't post on the forums.
Signed: 3/18/2014 12:14:07 AM
 Posted By: Ed Gebhardt Jr 
I stumbled across this website and thought I should leave a comment about my Dad who was a man that lived railroad and dedicated his knowledge to anyone interested in model railroading. Ever since I was a baby, we went on every vacation involved with Steam and rode in many cabs around the US. I have many great memories of my Dad living his Rail Life.

If anyone involved in the model railroad life ever met my Dad, they would never forget him.

Ed Gebhardt Jr.
Signed: 2/4/2014 9:50:23 AM
 Posted By: george courage 
NEW TO MODEL RAILROADING AND WAS TRYING TO MODEL THE B&M Eastern line in Everett,MA.during the 1940s&50s,I use to live up the street from the rail road station just in back of paris st.!I was wondering if anyone had old photos of the area during that time as the city of Everett,ma. has few?thank you! George
Signed: 1/29/2014 1:25:33 PM
 Posted By: Phil Blakely 
Looks like you have an interesting and enjoyable forum, tried to sign up, something got goobered up somewhere.
Signed: 1/29/2014 2:55:22 AM
 Posted By: Jeff 
Hi All, I have registered on the website but have forgotten my Username. If I try to re-register it says my email address is in uses. I need help so I can post to the website some questions I have. I need a forgot username link. What should I do because this the only way I can find to contact some one on the site. Thank You, Jeff
Signed: 12/29/2013 12:43:46 PM
 Posted By: sam tarallo 
i like railroads,my grandfather was either a fireman or brakeman on the raritan fiver railroad in 1960s to 1979,i am trying to get past imformation on him and about his work experiencs with this company.my only memory wnen i was a little boy the raritan river railroad would come by stevens ave i8n south amboy,when it came by the overpass by feltus street,my grand father blew the train horn and my older brother joe use to get pickit up there and be bought back to the train yard on stevens ave,up on top of hill was the raritan diner.i still have vivid memories which i think were good memorys i will never forget.
Signed: 11/20/2013 12:06:25 AM
 Posted By: gary cosby 
Signed: 10/18/2013 11:25:26 PM
 Posted By: Ed Cox 
Hi Where can I buy a turntable kit On30 ?
Signed: 8/13/2013 12:27:54 AM
 Posted By: Peter Wehrhahn 
Hallo from Germany,

I invite you all to visit my Modellcom-Blog. Many different things to look at: logging, mining, cardmodeling for the model railroader, regular card modeling, many hints and links to other interesting sites. A special feature of the site are regular hints to free downloadable card models or free books on trains. Site is only in german, but you can use the prominently placed Google translation tool.See it here:


Signed: 7/19/2013 3:05:51 PM
 Posted By: N scaler 
If you are interested in n scale model railroading in Germany, here are some informations:
I just launched this site newly, but updates and more info will follow.
Best Regards!
Signed: 5/13/2013 3:36:02 AM
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