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sierra west scale models railroad camp-O scale
Posted by kebmo On 03/18/2019 At 1:28:02 PM
Finished up O'Neil's (waiting for a friend's wife to bring photog lighting etc over to take final pics.
yesterday I started on the SWSM Railroad camp.

i grained and stained the boards yesterday:



and this morning i damp brushed the boards with red iron oxide acrylic craft paint:

Rookie takes on RDA's J&J Tool
Posted by JWNoank On 03/17/2019 At 8:13:45 PM
New Here, and to repeat just a wee bit from the arrival track, I've been accumulating kits and equipment for over 30 years and the time as come to slay one of the dragons. I selected from the collection RDA's J&J Tool because, to be honest, if I make a complete hash of it I can live with the loss, and if I feel bad about it, an injection molded version still is available. So, without further ado, assuming I can figure out the arcane procedures for posting photos I'll get on with it.

But first a bit of warning: work will probably proceed sporadically at best. I welcome any and all constructive criticism, if you think it might offend then please contact me off line.

OK then:

Hopefully there are two photos of the main stone structure in the clamping stage on the kitchen table. This is one of the first kits I acquired and it has substantial urethane resin castings of no fixed thickness. First step was to square up the backs of the four walls, which prompted my wife to dub this project "The Stinky Building." There was a lot of truing and sanding in an attempt to get opposite sides to match, and a fair amount of material had to be removed. In the end, I think I got fairly close. I used 5-minute epoxy to bind everything together, and used 1/4" strip wood in the corners to reinforce things. Squadron green putty was then applied to disguise the seams. Once that hardened I chipped away at things to try and blend things into a hopefully harmonious whole. I also tried the old plastic ship modelers dodge of using white glue to try and hide a seam where the putty was insufficient or else would contribute to rather than alleviate the problem (I think). I live in hopes that the prime coat will hide a multitude of sins.
And here we arrive at something that I'm not sure about. How best to proceed: should I prime with grey auto primer, or a flat white enamel? Should I then follow with a tan paint? The structure will be sited in Southern New England and I'm sort of using the Bradford Soap factory in West Warwick, RI as a guide (the old Valley Queen Mill: more on that at a later date) and that building is more brownish gray than grayish brown, if that makes any sense.

Ah, bugger it! Can't upload pictures keep getting Operation not allowed. As they say, more to follow
Bret's Brewery
Posted by txdyna65 On 03/11/2019 At 02:51:34 AM
Ive seen a few very nice builds on this and had the kit so I thought Id give it a try. I used cedar cut from cigar wrapper for the shingles instead of the campbells shingles. I just never have good luck with those shingles. I also put a top on the water tank with a small hatch and handle. Added a few barrels and did some light weathering. Im happy with the way it turned out. Now to get my layout built so I can place it somewhere.







HO scale 1950s pharmacy interior
Posted by Bill Gill On 03/05/2019 At 11:12:22 AM
I've been working on this model for quite awhile and still am less than halfway done, but here are a couple shots of some of the interior pieces posed against a scrap piece of matte board that is about the same color that the wall will be. Everything is scratchbuilt. In the first photo the posters above the cabinets are GIMPed in, but will be added when the interior is installed. The magazine rack on the far left is just posed in the photo. It will be on the opposite wall of the pharmacy, next to a soda fountain.



Brush painting with acrylic paint (Walthers Kits)
Posted by jlg759 On 03/01/2019 At 3:44:43 PM
I am working on a Walthers kit and wanted to brush paint with craft paints or model master acrylics. My question is what can I prime the plastic with to make the paint adhere better to the plastic. I read the sticky and did not see this addressed.
HO Window Panes with Canopy Glue - A Trick
Posted by darrylhuffman On 02/27/2019 At 01:20:27 AM
I hate cutting acetate for windows in HO and have been using Canopy Glue for the window panes for a few weeks.

But I found I could not avoid having problems with the liquid settoling with the window facing down on wax paper or up on wax paper.

Wrinkling the wax paper helped--but not much.

So I cut two pieces of 1/8 inch basswood and glued them to a piece of cardstock with a gap of a little over 1/16 inch between them.




Now I put the canopy glue in the top half of the HO window, set it in this rack and let it dry.

3 hours later I do the bottom half and let it dry.



This simple to make tool really solves the problems I was having with Canopy Glue.

You will notice the traditional red label glue and the new green label glue. Both are the same, just new labeling.

I also experimented with the Microscale and Testors products which are designed to do the same thing.

The Testors bottle was useless. The water had separated from the emulsion. When I squeezed the bottle, lots of water came out and then the emulsion came out in a lumpy, useless mess.

The MicroScale product was way too thick to be of use to me.

But the Pacer Canopy Glues work great.



It may be that I got two defective bottles of the Testors and Microscale products, but as expensive as this stuff is I did not want to buy more bottles to try.

I have also started using the canopy glue as a "fast grabbing" white glue.

It is thicker than the Elmers I usually use, but it grabs quickly and is stronger.

A valuable tool.
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 Posted By: Engine Driver 
Really good site, I found you "by accident" last night through a UK forum. I have completed my registration form and await a reply. Regards Nigel.
Signed: 2/11/2010 8:01:17 AM
 Posted By: Laurie Tebb 
Nice Site!
Signed: 1/29/2010 5:07:56 AM
 Posted By: bigmama31 

Can someone help me locate that RR chat room back in Oct=Nov 2000. It was free at the time but was in process of going to a paid subscription. the user name he used was
"mongoose" Guy was living in Columbus, Ohio and worked for the FRA and heard he either moved to MD or Crum Lynne, Pa
Signed: 12/25/2009 12:34:52 PM
 Posted By: bigmama31 
I'm hoping someone here remembers a train/rr chat site back in Oct-2000, looking for a member using "mongoose" as a username. At that time, he was with the FRA and living in Columbus, Ohio. Heard he moved to either PA or Md but still with FRA.
The site was changing to a "paid subscription" and that's when I decided to end it.
Signed: 12/25/2009 12:29:48 PM
 Posted By: Robert Hough 
This is a great site. I enjoy it very much. You have a lot of great modelers here. I do Fn3 outdoors and On30 indoors. Thank you for letting me visit. I would like to be a member.
Signed: 12/13/2009 9:43:45 AM
 Posted By: paul langlois 
I am a 0n30 modeler and havebeen modelrailroading for 20+ years
Signed: 12/2/2009 5:02:16 AM
 Posted By: Huw Griffiths 
Brilliant site - lots of great models - excellent tutorials.

I'll definitely be back.
Signed: 11/27/2009 6:57:27 PM
 Posted By: Re6/6 
Very useful site with loads of quality
'how to' posts. Found via RMweb in the UK.
Signed: 10/28/2009 11:09:54 AM
 Posted By: josh cirillo 
because of this site I have once again decided to build a small train layout in On30, and I now come by often.
Signed: 10/4/2009 8:11:27 PM
 Posted By: Thom Radice 
Heard about this site from a NMRA Div member for building my own stub switches.
Signed: 9/26/2009 10:58:48 AM
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